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Tube headers or cast iron?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Chebby belair, Aug 21, 2006.

  1. Chebby belair
    Joined: Apr 17, 2006
    Posts: 838

    Chebby belair
    Member
    from Australia

    Guys, doing a period soup up on my 54 chev. Duals and glasspacks are in order. The question is tube headers or cast iron for the 235?

    Stainless tube headers will cost me about the same as cast iron, and will look better.

    I have heard you get a better tone with cast iron. Whats the good word?
     
  2. Fenton
     

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  3. zibo
    Joined: Mar 17, 2002
    Posts: 2,346

    zibo
    Member
    from dago ca

    yeah i had a chromed set of Fentons on the '53,
    more $ but fit well and last forever.

    However,
    alot of bomb guys do the rapper/split pipe off a stock manifold,
    the sound is kinda cool,
    two tones the rear cylinders.


    but the Fentons add more power.

    TP
     
  4. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,057

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    I like the fentons,,,, old school looks, good sounds, less leaks and other troubles and they will last forever.

    headers would prolly give more power, but not worth the difference....
     

  5. I'm posting our PM in here in case it can help anyone in the future... hope you don't mind.

    I included a photo of what I was talking about. My engine compartment is dirty as hell but you get the idea.

    To the left is the bolt I'm using instead of the stud.
    To the right is just some nut I slapped in there to get a tighter seal on the intake till I get around to cutting those brackets to fit better. Works for now right?

    The exhaust is a whore, the intake clears but is really close. You have to shave an Offy to fit but the fentons were designed to work together.

    There's always irregularities with casting so don't be surprised if you have a certain intake/exhaust bolt number sequence. With mine, it's the front first. I removed that stud from the head and replaced it with a bolt to help seal that front port. You can do it with a big ass pair of vise-grips. Yours might be perfect, who knows.

    With brand spankin new motor mount biscuits, the intake is really close to the firewall but clears it perfectly. As the biscuits wear down it clears more and more.

    The oil filter can was moved to the fender using copper lines.

    The fenton exhaust is absolutely awesome, and good heat tubing locations as well. It's just really hard to get those front pipes on so they clear the motor mount, the parking brake, the steering box.. well mostly the parking brake. I could have done it myself but it would have taken about a day's work where it took an exhaust shop about 2 hours. Just make sure your parking brake is OFF so it sticks out all the way. then if you need to move it for them, engage it. Also verify the steering arm (not steering arm, that A arm thing the tie rods connect to, you know what I mean) clearance by steering it left and right. If you're like me you will have to call around and tell them "nobody drives my car, so verify with your boss that it's fine for me to drive it in the shop and I also have to be present the whole time." 3 shops said no, and surprisingly one of the biggest ones said yes. In the end it was about $240 for the pipes, a bit high but I was REALLY picky. Mine are kinda lake style but with flame throwers in mind so I can glow red all the way to the head and not harm anything.

    If you want to do most of it yourself, just have them do the pipes fom the fentons to the first turn. That's the hardest part.

    Just telling you all the bad, all the hard stuff. It's worth it in the end. The sound is out of this world, especially with a massive cam.

    I've heard you gain as much as THIRTY horses just by installing fenton headers. I don't know if that's true or not.

    Let me know if I can help with anything else man.


    Oh, you'll run into this: "So now they're installed, uh, but they're offly short, do I dare drive it like that?" The answer is yes, it's just fine. I drove it open Fentons for awhile, no valve issues whatsoever, no fire issues or anything. You'll be perfectly fine driving it open fentons to the exhaust shop, just sounds kinda like a tractor.
     

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  6. Chebby belair
    Joined: Apr 17, 2006
    Posts: 838

    Chebby belair
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks for the help - much obliged. I'm goona have to dimple my firewall brace to c;lear the intake - maybe I can post a tech when I've done it provided it aint fubar'd.
     
  7. Woogeroo
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 1,109

    Woogeroo
    Member
    from USA

    heya Ingus... what are those lines that run into the headers for? I noticed those holes, plugged up on the fenton headers on my dad's 235... just curious what they are for.

    So, what carbs are on that dual carb fenton intake?

    -W
     
  8. might, then again might not.

    let me know if ya need anything else. I'll be lookin forward to that tech post. be sure to take lots of pics.
     
  9. That photo has Rochester BC's. That was taken before I dropped the motor in, I built two carter YF's instead and they work perfectly.

    Those tubes are for heat to come out of the headers and heat up the intake. It helps the gas turn into vapor, without it, ya get a little sputter.

    The stock intake mounts hard up to the stock exhaust. The fenton setup uses tubing which comes with it, but it's aluminum and everything else was copper (oil lines, fuel lines, vacuum lines) so I used copper. It has a heat plate that mounts on the bottom of the intake.

    The bottom of the intake where the heat plate is located is isolated so it isn't like exhaust goes in your intake mixture.

    Hardly a noticable difference with or without it but enough to go ahead and slap em on.
     
  10. Chebby belair
    Joined: Apr 17, 2006
    Posts: 838

    Chebby belair
    Member
    from Australia

    I heard that ya need em to help vaporise the charge on the way in when the mill is cold. Story is if you don't have manifold heat it'll run richer until the mill warms the manifold up. I'm told that rich running when cold will let gas wash down the cylinder walls and gradually contaminate the oil. Maybe someone can confirm? Only an issue for inliners.
     
  11. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,591

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    If you plan on running your car in temperatures that dip below 50 degrees farenheight, definitely run the heat tubes. The coldest mixture possible is great if you're doing your driving a quarter mile at a time, but on the street, heat is neat.
     

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