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Technical Trying to remove cam in Ford 260...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fisher400, Jun 4, 2020.

  1. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 7,665

    jimmy six
    Member

    Block looks awful clean with new freeze plugs for a 55k mile engine...
     
    Montana1 likes this.
  2. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 83

    Fisher400

    Lifters are out. Used a pair of vice grips and got them out. Cam though...still in there. It seems if I pull and turn it is hard to spin. Might be some varnish on the edges gumming things up...


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  3. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 83

    Fisher400

    Yea it’s clean because it was repainted and has new plugs.


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  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 47,158

    squirrel
    Member

    might be the cam bearings got some wear, and a raised lip at the edge, that you have to pull the cam journals past.

    If you are sure the thrust plate is not bolted to the block, then pry on the cam sprocket and see what happens. The distributor and fuel pump and lifters are out, so you really can't blame it on anything else.
     
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  5. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 1,616

    RmK57
    Member

    The rear of the block should have a plug to. If you can remove it and gently tap the cam back and forth it may come out without marring the cam bearings.
     
  6. MAD MIKE
    Joined: Aug 1, 2009
    Posts: 570

    MAD MIKE
    Member
    from 94577

    Rear bearing can become a bit tight with suction.
    It's not 'open' back there like on a SBC.
     
  7. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 83

    Fisher400

    Ok, going to gently try to pull and turn it out. About the cam bearings, can they be replaced without the crank and pistons out? With a bearing tool of course...


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  8. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,110

    southcross2631
    Member

    You have gone this far. Just put a slide hammer in the cam bolt hole and pop that sucker out. then tear it all the way down and build it right. The rings and bearings should be checked the block needs to be cleaned and new cam bearings need to be installed.
    When you get it down you probably don't have round cylinders. You might be able to just hone and put fresh rings on it and new bearings.
    you have probably moved enough sludge around to plug at least one oil hole so why chance it.
    Your motor do it once and do it right or take chance that 6 months from now it's smoking.
     
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  9. 6sally6
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 1,315

    6sally6
    Member

    Take a look at the back of your engine where the bell housing bolts up. IF you have just 5 bolts (early SBF's did) then the T-5 won't fit without some kinda adapter because the T-5 take 6 bolts.
    Home-made penetrating oil (acetone and A/T fluid) won't hurt the inside of your engine but.........seriously, you're this far into it.
    Go ahead and AT LEAST hone the cylinders and put in new rings and bearing and oil pump and gaskets and swap the left bank of pistons to the right back for "free HP" and a better intake and 500 CFM Edelbroke carb and.......
    Ain't hot rod'in GREAT!!!?
    6sally6
     
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  10. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 1,616

    RmK57
    Member

    I would try and save the cam bearings if possible instead of meat fisting them out. Installing new ones is something you cant do without proper install tools.
     
  11. Is the timing gear still attached? behind it is a retainer plate held on with two quarter inch bolts
     
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  12. Aaron65
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 285

    Aaron65
    Member
    from Michigan

    Since nobody's mentioned it, that K-3601 cam is pretty big for a little 260; you'll definitely have to do some carb and distributor tuning on it. I didn't notice if you mentioned if your car was a manual or an automatic, but if it's an automatic, you'll probably want to do something about the converter as well.

    If you aren't planning to modify anything else, I'd stick with a stock cam or a K-3600. Just my opinion.
     
  13. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 83

    Fisher400

    Yes, it’s of. Had the clutch bits on the screws. Drove me nuts finding a bit lol. Gear is back on to give me something to turn and pull.


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  14. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 83

    Fisher400

    Really appreciate your insight here. It’s a manual. Thought I might spice it up a little but if that creates issues, it’s not that important to me. In the future if I do a full rebuild, (4 barrel, ported etc) it will will be on the table. The 2 barrel and stock had enough power. Just want to get this back on the road. Missing convertible weather...


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  15. Aaron65
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 285

    Aaron65
    Member
    from Michigan

    If you're keeping the 2-barrel, you'll definitely want to stick to the stock cam.
     
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  16. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 5,021

    sunbeam
    Member

    If you do not want to pry on the cam gear remove the rear soft plug by drilling a hole and screwing a large sheetmetal onto the plug forcing it out.
     
  17. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,335

    George
    Member

    He said it's a '62 block, so it's a 5 bolt bell pattern. If it was a C-4 he could just change bells, don't know on a manual. Cam: the smaller the displacement the "bigger" the cam runs. SBF cams are ground for the 302 so the description will be milder than what you'll get. Where you said it had plenty of power stock you probably shouldn't go past 260 advertised.
     
  18. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,305

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ditto on the acetone/ATF mix. 'Supe'up' the mixture with 60% acetone, 40% ATF.
    Serious varnish situation, methinks...
     
  19. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 83

    Fisher400

    Great points. Yes, it’s a 5 bolt and worked with MDL to get the correct adapter and other goodies. Using a 1993 5.0 GT WC T5 for the trans with an original looking shifter. The bell was on the car and had a 277 3 speed floor shift that was added in the 70s. The top end was laughable...They did a lousy swap and that is part of this whole project. I will keep with a stock cam then. You convinced me!


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  20. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 2,335

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    It's going to need some patience and fooling with.
    Keep turning it.
    Try to pull it, gingerly.
    Lube it well with breaker oil.
    Get a small hammer and tap on it. All this does is vibrate the cam and my help break it loose. Just peck at it. turn tap turn tap.....penetrating oil...repeat.

    Small Block Fords are good on cam bearing wear. So for overhaul most of the time they are fine unless the engine was neglected. It's possible that you could damage them coming out so I stress care and patience here.

    I would keep soaking it and move on.....
    You need to pull the pistons, rods and crank. SBFs are bad to crack and eventually break piston skirts. #1 and # 5 seem to go first and those two cylinders usually show the most wear.

    Check clearances with a "mash gauge" (Plasti-Gauge).

    Personally I would go all the way down with it and really clean the block and all oil passages. It would be a good idea to check bore taper.

    If every thing checks....
    New rod and crank bearings, some rings and pistons if it shows any evidence cracks on the skirt.

    Do this and with the head work...,it will be like new.
     
  21. vtx1800
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 1,141

    vtx1800
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    For what it's worth, I had a 63 Fairlane with a 260 (got it new), at about 65K miles in 1966 I was on my way home to Iowa from New Mexico and burned a hole in a piston on the Kansas Turnpike. My dad ( a long suffering person that put up with me) and mom brought the pickup and a tow bar and pulled me home. We took it to a shop (I'd have been dangerous then building motors) put new rings and bearings in, had a ring ridge to cut out. I am not sure how good the cast iron was and back then we weren't as fussy. I'd check for taper and wear before reassembly, good luck!!
     
  22. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 83

    Fisher400

    [​IMG][​IMG] Resolution! Hit it with oil, gentle taps and some patience and it is free. Brought it out slow and easy...I will give rebuilding some thought and discussion. Trust me there is a side that wants to and another that says drive it and build a hot 289 for the future!


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  23. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 1,616

    RmK57
    Member

    You could even go with a 331 stroker kit from a 289-302 block, no one would know the difference. With all the machining involved with the stock parts it's almost a wash cost wise for a entry level Scat 331 windsor kit.
     
  24. Mimilan
    Joined: Jun 13, 2019
    Posts: 698

    Mimilan
    Member

    get a 5.0 roller cam shortblock and swap everything over [heads, intake,exhausts, oilpan, front timing cover, pulleys etc.]
    This will cost less than a 5 bolt to 6 bolt behousing adapter [and cure the T5 adapting issues]
    It will have good street manners and look period in your car.

    I've pulled down a few 5.0 Fords [from U-Pulls] and they are always showing the cross-hatch in the bores

    edit: you'll also need the roller engine distributor gear to match the cam
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2020
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