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Hot Rods trying to glue in vent gasket

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bill Rinaldi, May 12, 2015.

  1. dan c
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 2,524

    dan c
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    that's why it only comes in those big tubes--lots more $$ for the acme gorilla snot company!
     
  2. Bill Rinaldi
    Joined: Mar 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,877

    Bill Rinaldi
    Member

    Follow up on the vent gasket saga. Yes the vent seals tight BUT it doesn't compress enough to keep water from seeping in and water under pressure REALLY seeps in. I took it all apart AGAIN, and cleaned out the the glue, checked the water channel (where the water is allowed to run out, if it gets that far). All clean, no rust out, so its just not compressing enough to keep water under pressure out (under pressure as a hose or RAIN at 70mph). Tried slicing an 1/8 off the bottom of the gasket with a razor----I've had better luck herding cats!! OK I'll try Rusty1's solution of laying a proper size vacuum hose in the groove. Hmmm, fits well----I'll try it and see of it will seal out water. YOWSA for the first time I have success!!! Took it all apart, again, put fresh glue in the groove and fit a vacuum hose and laid the lid back on with weight on it, let it set up. Put the the whole works back together AGAIN. AND SO FAR-------I CANT MAKE IT LEAK!!!! HEY RUSTY SAM, What kind of beer do you like? RINALDI
     
    Model T1 and tb33anda3rd like this.
  3. Bill,...I hate to say "I told ya"...as far as beer cold, & free is my favorite.
    ...maybe we oughta start selling cowl vent gaskets!
    ...mine is just stuck into the groove, no adhesive, has worked for over 12 years now.
     
  4. flypa38
    Joined: May 3, 2005
    Posts: 530

    flypa38
    Member

    I realize it's too late now, but that yellow 3M gasket adhesive (we use 1300L) is incredible if used correctly. We use it on airplanes for all sorts of interior things and it holds up well.
    As said previously, a thin coat on both sides is the key. Here's what I wish I could have told you earlier but didn't see the thread! That stuff can be, and in some instances should be, re-activated with MEK or acetone depending on which adhesive you're using.
     
  5. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,264

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Call me lucky or simply full of shit, but my tube of black gasket glue, yes 3M, is about 5 yrs old and still good. I peel the blob off the top under the cap and go to work. There's little to nothing on the threads of the tube to put the cap back on, and I run the remainder up to the top like an old toothpaste tube after every use. I had some plastic and emblem adhesive that was more than a dozen yrs old and it too still worked until some dumb fuck stepped on it and squashed the rest out (!). It's something I don't use all the time and it lives in the bottom drawer of my tool box. As to good cowl vent gaskets, although tough to find at times you need a sheet of closed cell black foam. The thickness will be based on need but 1/4" seems to be the best. Cut a flat gasket that fits the trough and glue that in. Most repro stuff simply wads up in the corners and prevents a good seal from ever happening. A seal cut from flat stock works every time, but the rubber tube gig sounds right as well, just not correct from a restoration point of view.
     
    Model T1 likes this.

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