They claim better vision of surrounding features - being able to follow a line, gap, seam, etc. (auto body welding is a PITA compared to structural.) THE PROBLEM: seeing the actual puddle when electric welding. Supposedly this improves that ability. I want that! THE OTHER PROBLEM: I have the sadistically expensive 3M Speedglas 9100FX-AIR that is at least 10 years old and am trying to find if there is a lens upgrade. I will never purchase a new air package welding helmet, they are just too stupid expensive $2000-3000. I lucked into mine and got a once in lifetime deal on it. QUSTIONS: Does True Color improve ability to see puddle? Is my 9100FX-AIR upgradeable? NOTE: have been searching internet for these answers and nothing so far.
Everybody has their own opinion. I never liked the blue lens at all. I would suggest trying one out before you put your money down. Good Luck
Since you never liked them, that sounds like they don't let one see the puddle any better - I really don't care about the color, only the puddle.
I had one of the earliest Speedglass helmets and it was great if I was welding 80 amps and up. If I turned the current down low to do some finer work, I found it unreliable. After a couple of times of getting flashed I couldnt see the puddle no matter what color lens I had. I threw it in the locker and seldom used it again.Maybe the are better now, I dont know. I grew up on the old fixed lens system. A 10 was pretty standard fare. If you you knew you were going to be running high amps all day, you might switch to an 11. For a small job or short term, I might throw in a 9, for better visibility, but you got to realize that its not good for you to run that long term. Good Luck
I knew guys that loved them, I just never did. Why I suggested you try one if you can. Maybe you need to try a cheater lens, it will help.
Back in a previous life when I actually got paid money$$$ to stick weld.....I REALLY like the blue tint lens for the very reasons you mentioned. This was the old fashion flip up pipe welders shield. NOT the auto-darken crap. IF you're having trouble seeing the puddle/seam/weld area...you should try a magna lens OR set up a light shining on your work area OR go to a no. 10 welding lens. A magna-lens..." made stick welding look like a telephone pole in a fishing pond !!" 6sally6
I know this is probably a dumb question, but which direction are you welding? If you are following the weld, then photo tropism kicks in, and it is hard to fixate on the crack, if leading the weld, the weld puddle illuminates the crack and makes it easier. I have a blue tint in my Viking large view helmet, and I am fine with it.
Answer, not if your old and blind. I'm old and blind. But can weld better then most from years of practice, a solid knowledge base, and old memories to rely on when the eyes lose focus and thing are going south I release the trigger sooner before I make a big mess when most go the extra and blam, mess it up royal. Answer, anything is upgradeable if you use a SBC with Corvette valve covers. You want to know a sad truth, it wasn't about seeing the puddle better, it was about selling batteries. Industry needs more men and the shit they were feeding em made them so they couldn't hold an electrode holder in one hand and flip a lens cover down in the other so they said, and we can sell batteries at the same time, sold. TripleAAA's, 3V x2, and solar. Let's help all those who can't see things clearly. Flash light is an optional accessory and it runs on, you guessed it. And those air purifiers... did they stop the virus, or was it a reason not to clean properly, the material, because you won't smell it wearing a mask so who cares? Going to grind up a storm in a cloud of dust, crank it up and burn it in there, wear a mask and make it happen. But if you can't see, you will bring your head in closer for a better look, human nature to do it and say I don't need glasses, can see real good, and well, not only is it where the fun is, it's closer to the smoke. So you know, when you see them in the video's hitting it one blast at a time, there a good reason for it. While they can't see they can always do a one two count. Just saying, clarity isn't always a necessity. But it's a step above just enough to be dangerous. But, let me offer this little nugget of brain advice. With regards to glass lenses, the lighter to darker has little to do with more or less of anything but, reducing visible light. They all will prevent exposure to UV and infra red light rays thru diffusion in the glass. I would assume the photo electric would be more or less the same. As far as adapting goes, duct tape goes a long way to making things happen.
I've tried one. I really liked it compared to my other helmet. I have not bought one yet trying to figure out weather I want speedglass, 3m or ostrel.
I have been using Optrel welding helmets since I got one after striking the set of a TV show I was working on. They were going to toss it.
When I worked for a sheetmetal shop, I welded a lot of galvanized. Used that same helmet. Worked great, I guess when your life depends on it, galv is nasty stuff to weld!
After years of strengthening up my neck muscles flipping a heavy fiberglass hood down, I finally decided to try an auto-darkening hood. I wasn't about to spend several hundred dollars on something that I didn't like or couldn't use so, when Eastwood had their XL9300 on sale, I bought one. I don't grind with it though it does have a grinding setting. I must say, it made a big difference in how I saw the work. I wish something like it had been available when I was welding in tight spaces. I've been fortunate in that my eyeglass prescription hasn't changed in almost 25 years. I had my first cataract surgery about 2 weeks ago and the second is coming next Monday. In about 2 more weeks, I should be able to try the new helmet again but, I'm reasonably sure that I'll still be able to use it.
I believe I've had nearly every version of an auto darkening helmet that has been sold, I have quite a collection! The illusion of buying an expensive welding helmet was short lived (as was buying the cheapest helmet I could find). None of them like to get dropped very well. The early versions without the replaceable batteries were good for about 2 years before the "solar charging" quit working. Once that happened, the helmet was pretty useless. The helmets with the replaceable batteries got the batteries replaced about every 2 years, but buying batteries was cheaper then buying a new helmet. If the helmets had the solar charger and the replaceable batteries the batteries lasted maybe another year longer, if the helmet was used daily, and was able to sit in the sunlight a couple hours a week. The blue tint made it slightly easier to se the welding line then the regular lens, but you had to keep the lens cleaner then you did the regular lens. Keeping all the lenses and the lens protectors clean is very important for seeing the weld lines. The difference between a clean lens and a dirty lens is about equal to the improvement as the blue lens over the regular lens, for a reference point. Clean lenses and a flash light attached to your favorite helmet dramatically improves being able to track the weld line. Those things work better then a new helmet would, and is a cheaper option, unless you have a need to buy a new helmet. Now that I have retired, none of the battery powered auto darkening helmets work well. The helmets sit long enough the battery function is always inconsistent. I'm going back to the old large face old school non-auto darkening helmet with a 9 or a 10 shade.
First let me clarify by what I mean by "can't see" the puddle: it's all about the filter shade #. There are 3 objectives: 1) see surrounding roadmaps, 2) see the puddle, and 3) "don't" see the arc flash. To see the puddle I need an extemely dark filter, like 12, but then I can't see the "roadmaps" - even with ADF, I get in position, and the instant I strike the arc, I can't see where I'm at. The ultimate technical solution would be a filter that reduces contrast so you could see dimly illuminated features while filtering out the arc flash. This could be done with a camera and a display monitor where the image could be processed to achieve just that. It would be great on the eyes since zero direct vision. Which one did you try (manufacturer and model) and what did you like about it?
Try a 10 and when you strike the arc....shut your eyes. Open them a second later after the initial arc...EZ-PZ 6sally6
And yes, as I suspected, there are "3D Vision" helmets which use cameras, processing and displays so you see everything except the arc flash (!) https://www.vision-systems.com/came...-helmet-employs-extreme-dynamic-range-imaging https://www.sri.com/case-study/next...for-better-productivity-accelerated-training/ https://shopmetaltech.com/welding/weld-visualization-technology-and-3d-welding-helmet/ Unfortunately, all the news came out in 2019. Found one mention in 2021 and it looks like Kawada is using these helmets to train welders. Clearly, this is revolutionary technology and should be kept out of the hands of the competition I suppose. Still, this is the way to go. Endoscopes used to be optical and directly viewed with eye, but now are all "robotic" using video cameras and monitors. And I quit holding my breath that safe water based auto paints would show up in my lifetime. XDR image & Conventional
Shut Eyes Tip never thought of it! Will try very next strike but I'm thinking it will make a difference. In fact, the trick might be to use peripheral vision to strike the arc and then let the eyes jump to where they need to be. By then, the ADF will switch and you'll have good vision.
I wanted to try one so I bought a true color auto from Eastwood a couple yrs ago and I love it. If it died tomorrow I'd have another one either in hand or on order by Monday morning. I have 4 or 5 regular helmets with both 10 and I believe 11 number shades in them and I run the auto set to 10 and it's perfect for me whether I'm welding 1/2" steel plate or sheet metal with my mig. Have a standard auto helmet at work for the last 4 yrs but I still prefer the true color. BTW I have to use cheater glasses when I weld so it's not like I have perfect eye sight either ! Lol .
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