I got a new truck and have been trying to get it running. The situation is i starts and will only run for about 5 secs then shuts off. It has what i think is an autolite 2100 2 bbl. It came with an electric choke that was not hooked up, so my first step was to wire that thing up. No luck. Next I pulled the carb and went through it. I put it back on and it ran for about 5 mins this time. Once the choke plate was fully open it stalled again. Then after that it was back to usual, I start it and it stops running within 5 secs.Even if I keep the gas throttled it will stall out. I'm wondering if maybe its getting to much fuel? My next step today will be to check the timing if I can get it to run long enough to verify that. Also thinking that since I dont truly know how long the truck sat I should maybe drain the tank and start with fresh gas. This has got me stumped. Kind of new to the carb thing so I can really use some help on this one. I'm use to diesels, because thats what I work on at work so not much carb experience but both my cars are helping me out with that. I hope some day I will be able to answer these questions for someone in my shoes.
If you have a new truck with points and condenser,My guess you don,t have a coil and matching resister if 12 volts.Also when key is on do you have power to coil,maybe wired wrong.
Hambers are great people,BUT we are not mind readers...WHAT kind of truck and engine...DETAILS PLEASE
It's a 59 f100 with a 292 yblock. It has a cruise-o-matic. Sorry. I totally forgot about putting the motor in that post, it would be hard to troubleshoot without it.
If the truck starts and runs for a bit, chances are the timing and ignition are pretty close. Make sure it has good fuel flow. Try pouring gas down the carb to keep it running when it starts to die. If it stays running fuel is the problem. Don't mess with the timing or ignition until the gas thing is fixed.
As soon as it dies, look down the the carb and work the throttle. If there is no squirt from the accel pump, it is running out of fuel. If there is pump shot, you may have a stuck float needle which is causing flooding. EXACTLY what do you do to get it started again after it dies? This info might be key to figuring out the problem...
If it dies when the choke opens, then it likely is lean rather than rich. This sounds like a feul starvation issue. Check for a good flow to the fuel pump, flow from pump to carb, all the way from tank to carb in other words. If this don't reveal the problem, start looking for vacuum leaks. Might also check that the tank vents well, that the feul filter is not stopped up, and be sure to check for water in the gas. Next step will take you inside the carb. Make sure that any feul system problems are resolved before you go pirootin' around in the ignition system. Post back and let us know how it goes.
Ok so I have some answers. Exwestracer: to restart the truck I pump the throttle a couple of times and it fires. Runs for a few seconds then dies. Sounds kind of like a clogged main jet right? Then acceloretor pump squirts nicely when the throttle is pumped. When I pulled the carb apart a little ball bearing fell out. I wasn't sure where it was suppose to go, if anybody knows for sure please share. I put it in the most logical spot to me. 48chubby: the fuel pump flows real well all the way to the carb.
The only ball in there that I can think of is the accelerator pump check valve ball. It should let fuel flow into the pump chamber from the float bowl then hold pressure when the accelerator is pumped. If your into the carb just make sure that all the openings are open and that the power valve diaphram is not blown.
Can anyone identify this carb. I bought a rebuild kit for a Holley 2300 and it wasn't the right one? Is it an autolite 2100?
Actually it sounds like the idle passages are plugged. Where are the idle screws (on the base plate) set? Run them in until they just stop and back them out 2 full turns and try it. The truck in running on the initial pump shot when it starts. Clogged mains would explain why it won't run with the throttle open. THere's a little itch in my brain telling me it may be some weird ignition/voltage problem, but make SURE everything is GO with the carb first...
Also, make sure you don't have a vacuum leak. Will it run longer if you keep tapping the throttle constantly (more gas from accel pump)?
When it was running while warming up, I could push the throttle open and it would do what it was suppose to do. After it was warm and I would get it started again I would try opening the throttle and it would die. As for vacuum, I only have one vacuum line to the distributor and it's a brand new hose. Not to say it can't be leaking but less likely.
Sounds like its only getting power to the ignition when the key is in the start position,turn the key on and check for power at the coil and if it has none its something wrong between the switch and coil.
Vacuum leak could be from the carb base plate gasket or intake manifold. Sounds more like a possibility since you said it happens after the choke has opened...
Ok so the latest update, I have gone through everything everyone suggested and here are my findings. I found no noticeable vacuum leak, but I did find that the intake manifold was not hardly torqued. I retorqued all the hold down bolts to 35 ft/lbs. I rebuilt the carb again, all orifices seemed to be flowing well. In an attempt to keep it running i disconnected the electric choke but left the choke plate in place, it starts fine now with no pumping the throttle. As soon as I start opening the choke plate it stalls out. So I figure its running super lean, so I back out the idle mixture screws. I had them backed out to the point where the springs had no tension anymore. With the choke plate fully closed it will idle for a while. I can also give it gas to keep it running. It seems to me like the carb is just not giving enough fuel. The engine is stock displacement, stock cam. Everything is stock, So i see no reason why it would need a different carb. What should I check, replace, rebuild anything?
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