I need to fill all the trim holes on my 47 Ford ! They seem too big to fill with mig weld but too small to cut steel patches to weld in ! What’s the best method? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Use the nail method. I welded up over 50 trim holes on my 48 by holding a 16 penny nail head in the hole and tacking said nail to make hole smaller then completely welded after cooling. Ground the nail shank off after everything cooled.
Done both. I picked up a whitney punch with 2 sizes inserts at an industrial auction, makes slugs about the right size, great for rosette perimeter welds on panel replacement too.
We use to use real copper pennies, tin them and lead them in no distortion. You can use small metal tabs and do the same thing, works really well filling holes in roofs.
Brass. Aluminum or copper as a back stop works with Mig as the Mig welding wire doesn't stick to any of these metals and leaves you with a steel plug if you will. But you can't always easily reach behind where some trim holes may be located so I usually use the "Nail" method posted earlier. All done from the exterior of the car and the shank of the nail makes it easy to hold.. Torchie
I used this method to fill trim holes on the lower valance panel on my OT mercedes. 6 years on and they are still fine. Sorry the text didn't make it, that is high quality aluminum tape.
Yes on backing with Alum, or Copper backer (I like an Alum block). That's good up to 3/8" holes and then hot and fast with the Mig gun. Don't worry about stacking it just a bit. What your not hearing yet is what to do after you stop welding. I always have a helper hold the backer metal and push hard. Once done welding the backer is usually lightly stuck. Just leave it alone, tell your helper to let go and you have your Grinder with a 36 Grit disc in your lap. As soon as your off the welder and the plug is still hot hit it with the 36 disc till it lays down with the panel surface. As it cools the backer will drop off. Now if you happen to have any shrinkage at all just a few light on dolly taps will stretch it right back out and your panel will be as it should be and NO filler should be necessary before prime. Do a few practice holes on some scrap and it will Blow you Away how nice this method works. Don't quench the weld with anything! Just let it cool on it's own. The Wizzard
I saw Ron covell fix a mess of holes. Drilled them uniform size, punched slugs to fit. Hammer on dolly to stretch the slugs for tight friction fit and welded them up.
All the above work well, even brazing them shut, as long as all the flux is removed. Here is one more, from the 2nd Edition of "Automobile Sheet Metal Repair" by Robert Sargent. He says lead may be used, but the filler thickness needs to equal the hole diameter.
A Mig welder is a wonderful thing. To bad knowing how to use one correctly isn't as easy as buying them. The Wizzard
You have that right. I bought this fender to cut up for my single seater project. Just wanted to clarify that I did not do this.
The brass is just a back-up piece to weld the hole up with mig wire. Not talking about brazing. Did over 80 holes on my 41 Chevy in 1992 and still holding up fine. Probably done close to 1000 holes with this method over the years with no come backs.
Cut some scrap steel into squares just slightly smaller then the hole. Bend the square across furthest points till it fits into the hole,install from the back side and Hammer & dollie flat to fill hole and now you have support for the welding as the square corners hold the material inplace and then burn to panal . Years ago as a kid without a welding rig, a slight depression in the material (topside and a blindside hole) and this method, would just fill with bondo and sand smooth
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