I have read the whole thread. It's your truck so do what you want. IMHO your going about it the wrong way. Your building a stroker for power and a tripower for looks. To get the best bang for your buck on your stroker you need a purposely Set up 4 barrel. Nothing wrong with a tripower. I'm running one myself. But you will not get the performance of a 4 barrel. If you've already built the motor put a 4 Barrel on it and keep the hood shut. If not. Pick up a 350 and build a tripower for that.
This place shows a few 383's with trips so I would also talk to them and see if they can give you some insight into the results http://hotrodcarbs.com/gallery.php
Yep, I agree. I run 3 deuces too, mostly cause I love the tradition and the look. But, if you're going to the trouble and expense to build a 383, why not get the most out of it? Set it up with the right 4 barrel.
Yep the 4 barrel boys are rite why build a 383 and de tune it with a tripower setup unless it was this one! Not really traditional but very tunable with the Holley's! I have a very nice traditional Tripower unit ready to go that I would trade for one................
An easy way to "convert" the end carbs is to make (or buy) base to body gaskets that have no idle passages in them....... I have to agree with "Nitro Breath" , re; not making things ourselves,.... But, having some items readily available does minimize the headache factor....... To each their own,...and Happy Roddin' !!!!!!!!!!!! 4TTRUK
# x 2's are for looks not speed. a 350 or a 327 would be plenty of power for that truck. Don't disres[ect the 383 with in adequate carburation.
Funny stuff here!!"CSI-Duece"!lol I'm running a 400 SBC with 3 2Gs, converted from all primary carbs with the linkage on one side & i have no problems at all. Heres some pics! JimV
I started this thread a couple of weeks ago, lots of research later/ listening to advice and this is what i have bought... I think its a good start for my first tri power build.
This is how i set mine up at first, looks good but you would not get full travel out of the secondaries! The primary will be open alot before the secs even start to open up when the pri is fully open the secs will only be about 1/3-1/2 open.If you look at what you have the arc of the pri is the same as the sec.the pri linkage would have to be way higher on the arc & the front carb was down( Kind of like a big sprocket turning a little sprocket). run a search & look for the type or "blade" setup i used, i got it off here.trust me i went all thru this. JimV PS if you changed the "ratio" it makes the pedal too hard to step on.Plus you would need another collar behind the "block" on the front carb to make sure it closes all the way.
Cheers for the info Jimv... I bought it as a non running setup for building, so will look for that info, do you have any pictures of your set up please ? Thanks
I can tell you from experience that the end carb bases are the biggest factor in a good set up. I monkeyed with my originals until I was blue in the face. Get them to seal up very well...
Post number 38 has pics of mine, its actually partly like yours but with a "knife blade" cam on the center carb.I copied a post on here to do it.I'll try to get more pics over the weekend. jimV
Is their any info threads all about building a rochester tri power. I found the info page about everything you need to know on Holley 94's, but is their one for the Rochester's ? I have tried to use the "search" but as i don't have a computer i use my iPhone and its difficult for me to use.
pontiactripower.com, chevytripower.com, all have great info and really good pieces for setting up your tripower. I just finished one on my pontiac using the knife blade progressive linkage with the single rod between the 2 end carbs on the passenger side. works very well and looks pretty well factory. I believe mike at pontiac tripower has a dvd. ment for pontiacs but still a lot of good info. Are your carbs off a chev or a pontiac? Chev - 1-3/32" center 1-3/16" outers pontiac was 1-1/4" center and 1-5/16" outers. believe me, i have 2 sets of chevy trips on a bench at home collecting the perverbial dust!
A customer just shared his dyno charts with me this a.m. for his new ZZ383 Fast Burn 425HP/383" w/one of our Custom Built 3-Deuce Rochester Systems (using an edelbrock 5417 intake).... The sheet attached shows the peak averages of a four pull break-in of my customers engine... Dyno rpm was between 2,400 to 6,400... run with the Tri-Power System as originally built & jetted by me... with 2.1/8" dyno headers (too big for torque) - and the less than optimal Mutha Thumper Cam retro-fit (it may sound good, but makes terrible vacuum) - and a low barometer of 26.62 (normal baro is 29.92). 450-470HP & 450-470TRQ. is typical of what I've seen in the past with these "BIG 383" MOTORS" running one of my 3-Deuce Rochester Systems... and this motor was right there... and I know there's more left in this particular engine with a camshaft change; smaller o.d. headers; and higher barometer, but it's not worth chasing for this use / application. *Just finished a 3-Deuce Rochester System for a 427" Shafiroff SBC... rated @ 525HP @ 5600 RPM and 550 Trq. @ 4200 RPM.... It's a Torque Monster for sure! (GM ZZ383 advertised HP/TRQ with orig. small camshaft and 4bbl carb = 425HP @ 5400 RPM; & 460 Trq. @ 4500 RPM ) Larry
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=voChtzm-zYg&feature=related A 383 stroker with the tri power set up.....
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