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Hot Rods Tri five chevy bellhousing mount modification

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Old wolf, Jul 16, 2019.

  1. Ok its not uncommon for the factory stock rear tri five Chevy bellhousing mounts to separate. And when they fail the dist cap gets broken. So I modify mine by drilling two horizontal holes and installing 3/8 bolts tightened just snug. I lock them with two nuts with a lock washer jammed between them or a lock nut or a ESNA nylon insert lock nut Its best to grind one side of the bolt head flat and bevel the opposite side. U modded tri five rear mount 001.JPG modded tri five rear mount 003.JPG modded tri five rear mount 006.JPG modded tri five rear mount 005.JPG modded tri five rear mount 008.JPG modded tri five rear mount 009.JPG modded tri five rear mount 010.JPG modded tri five rear mount 012.JPG se a shoulder bolt. not one that's threaded all the way to the bolt head. It works really well. Ive been doing this mod for decades and many high RPM side step the clutch starts its never failed. I also add a torque chain from the front of the cyl head to the frame on the drivers side. I much prefer the stock 4 point mounting on a tri 5 chevy. I first seen this done by a stock car driver at the DX station. Ugly guy nicknamed Ringo. Looked like the Beatle . Always dated the prettiest girls!
    Hnstray and chevy57dude like this.
  2. jailbird
    Joined: Jun 18, 2015
    Posts: 151


    WHEN I was a teen street racing where we had 1/4 miles marked off like the black diamond or county line and a few others my biggest thought in the back of my mind besides beating the other car was I hope I don't tear one of these rear mounts and crack the distributor cap while power shifting the 4 speed as it happens
    I had a pile of those rear mounts and even bent the turn buckle pretty bad I eventually installed a front Hurst mount along with side mounts
    My friend used a piece chain in his 55 was
    Old wolf likes this.
  3. bowie
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 2,300


    Good idea! Ripped a couple over the last 40 years : 71C8A1E1-CED1-4F6A-8C53-8261754E9E1F.jpeg
  4. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,223


    I did the same basic thing, drilling holes through the metal parts and through the rubber, but I used what I call "T" bolts; those came from the backing plate, axle retention ring at an axle housing end. The mounts I'd bought for cheap on E-Bay as stock/original, but "NOS". They were't; the metal is obviously thinner, and even at that, I just did get a nyloc nut all the way on. One of the few times I've used my drill press I paid $100.00 to my cousin for. It's a large, stand up, Craftsman, with several speeds by changing the belt/pulleys, and was virtually new when I bought it. Cousin was in a bind and needed the money; I told him I'd just lend it to him, but he insisted I buy the drill press (???), and then moved back to California. Can't argue with stupidity. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
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  5. When I first used the trick. I was strapped for cash and had some old sagging engine mounts that where barely holding together. And it wasn't even on a chevy. It was a 56 ford Vicky that I pulled the Y block and installed a FE. And I had to use the original Y block mounts in a reversed position. Yes quite often the new mounts we can buy today are not anywhere near as good of the quality that OEM ones where.

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