Hey all. Well I find that it is the end of my son's baseball season (finally) and time to get some work done on my '57 pickup. I am like most and did not want the gas tank in the cab, but did not want the expense of some aluminum tanks we all see in the mags'. There have been other posts and articles done on under-bed gas tank installs, but i would like to share my experience (plus this is the easisest way to archive and share with friends and family). To begin, I had to choose a gas tank. Now I consider myself rather thrifty (others call me cheap) and this thriftyness would drive me to my choice for a gas tank; 2nd gen. Mustang. I chose a '70 model for its 22 gallon capacity; perfect for a thirsty 406 sbc. The tank is new with sending unit and associated hardware. Cost was ~$130. Next, the most rearward cross member needs to be removed. Do this by drilling and punching out the rivets. I did not want to damage the crossmember because it will be re-used. Next there is a step on the lower edge of the frame that needs to be trimmed to allow the tank to slide between the frame rails. The flange on the gas tank will need to be trimmed to make room for various hardware. In this case, it was trimmed to to clear to bolts for the rear suspension mounts. Pleae note that you must not trim into the pinch weld or the tank will leak. The front of the tank is secured to the shock absorber cross-member (too easy), and the rear must be modified to receive the rear lip of the gas tank. I sectioned the lower half of the raised portion of the cross member to receive a piece of c-channel I had laying around the garage. The following pictures explain better than words. One of the things that I wanted from the beginning of this retro-fit was for the gas filler to be behind the license plate. You know, one of those really cool ones that flips down from a '60s GM sedan. To accomplish that, the top plate of the cross member must be relieved to allow the filler neck to move to the rear between the bed and the top of the gas tank. A notch was cut and piece of 3' tubing (old driveshaft) was installed. Also, blind nuts were added to the cross member ears to allow for "bolt-in" assembly. Final trimming is completed on the gas tank to clear all of the hardware between the frame rails in the tank vicinity. Last j-nuts are added to the tank flange to secure the tank on the front and rear edges. Everything is then put together. I will add to the post later when the filler neck is fabbed and the bed sill is relieved for the gas cap.
nice job. glad to not see another tank just stabbed into the bed. now i hope you hide the battery also.
most do not know that most crashes are from the rear. the safiest part of any car is the cab. how offen do you get hit there????
btw btmatt, that looks like a nice installation, the tank tucks up under the bed very well! not like using a Suburban tank
Thanks for the replies guys. I like the reference "using an early 70s ford gas tank because it's safer(?) than the stocker." It reminds of a skit on SNL in the '70s when a shopping kart hits a pinto in the rear and it blows up. Actually the tank was moved to keep the gas smell out of the cab and give some much needed leg room. If I plan to do some serious driving, I had to get that seat back. And yes, the battery will find a home other than the engine compartment.
Nice installation. I'd like to add a tank under the bed to increase the range of my '54 pu. When I built my truck, I kept the tank int he cab. It's in the middle of the truck and encased with a steel shell (the cab). I replaced the filler hose and wrapped the tank in aluminum and foan insulation. I have no gas smell in the cab what so ever. r
Replacing the filler hoses and the gas tank sending unit gasket (and maybe the sending unit too) should get rid of the gas smell in the cab. Or maybe I"v just gotten used to it over the past 30 years! and don't notice any more. Either way, you have to make the satisfy you! Pretty easy to hide the battery under a fleetside bed, near the front of the bed, just make a tray that bolts to the ouside of the frame rail. Might be more of a challenge on a stepside.
These mustang tanks are great...they seem to fit in almost anything and at the price you pay ...with sending unit even I don't know how to beat it. I had one in my 55 ford truck and my buddy just put one in his 53 chevy car.
Great idea and looks super! Would You know the outside measurement of this tank?(flange to flange) May attempt an upgrade on my 39 Sedan! My existing tank hold about half that amt ! Thanks !Bobby D.
Did exactly this on my F-100. Worked perfect. Does anyone know of an aftermarket sending unit that goes into the "mustang" sending hole? Craig
cool , thanks for the info , one of the next projects on my 55 so i can get rid of the 1 gallon gas can tied down to the piece of plywood currently serving as my bed
OLDRAGS the tank measures @ 32 5/8" across. Add about 2" to account for the flanges. Also, I am in the process of procuring a filler neck from a '73 chevelle to place the gas cap in the license plate area. I will post later with the battery box. Regarding the fuel sender, I will use aftermarket gauges and will have to adapt the potentiostat to the arm in the tank. Another project, another day.
I will be doing the same on my '59. Except I am doing it so I can have more leg room. Thanks for the info. Cool idea about the filler area behind the plate. Would like to see it complete.
After installing mustang gas tank in 57 chevy pick up truck, what filler neck was used to connect to gas tank and accept a gas cap?
I am up to the filler neck part on my 53 AD so I am looking for some info to get it into the roll pan license plate area.
AutoMeter makes a gage that works with the Mustang sender,..and others that work with other senders..
I used some conduit to run up the stakepocket to a small pop up filler from a boat supply store. Then had the muffler shop expand a short piece of tubing to weld to the conduit and still use a rubber connector to the gas tank. I had to do a little cutting and welding on the new tank but the results were cool!
Know one knows of a sending unit that mounts same as 70 Mustang ring type unit, and works on a Chevy Gauge? I really don't want to cut another hole in the top for a after-market bolt in type! May have to special order a gauge that will work with Mustang unit? Special Thanks to (btmatt) for taking the time to post the installation steps of his, Little different on a 89" bed, but it was a lot of help!
Unless the Ford sender is something unusual (I frankly don't recall) it should just be a rheostat that can work with any gauge. Might have to calibrate the float is all. Nice job on the installation. Even has an OEM sorta look to it.