The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by zooming46, Oct 25, 2020.
Also works for 1936 Ford cabriolets.
Love the trailers, wish I could buy one. Their tow dollies are also great.
Towed my 50 chevy 3600 pickup with one, no problems. Also towed my 39 Buick special from Long Island to CT on one, again no problem.
Max vehicle weight 5290 lbs I think you will be OK.
If you rent a Uhaul trailer and you lie about the car you are putting on the trailer - the insurance that comes standard as well as any insurance upgrade you purchase thru Uhaul is voided.
So is your automobile insurance.
The person who is named on the Uhaul contract and/or the operator of the motor vehicle pulling the trailer is solely responsible for any claims arising out of damages claimed should an accident occur.
Something to consider.
Yep a good choice for one way - got one in Houston to haul a 4 - door parts car back to Dallas. You - like was mentioned earlier = you might have to fudge on whet your carrying - they frown on or won't rent it if the the vehicle is antiqueish. I usually just say a newish Jeep.
This worked fine using a 2019 Canyon
Not about a car trailer but I rented U Haul box trailers to move my son 2 times from SoCal to Seattle (after the first trip through 8 inches of snow in Portland you think I would have learned, but that's a completely different story) Trailers are fine but don't trust the kid who hooks up the trailer for anything. Check the air pressure on the trailer tires before you leave. Don't ask me why. Also, on one rental their photo scanner was down and the kid who completed the paperwork took a photo of my driver's license on his personal cell phone so he could transfer it to the U Haul data base. Not too happy about that but it was that or no trailer.
Twice with pictures. First is a stop in Connecticut at my sisters house with my '55 T-Bird.
.Second is my '51 Ford two door Custom.
I used one for towing my son's 1950 Chevy. I have used these for about 12 other cars too. The trailers work great unless you plan to reverse up a steep hill as the brakes will engage.
Most surge brakes have a pin you can put in to prevent them from working while backing up.
1999 HONDA ACCORD. Ironically it looked like my 54 Chevy
You can look on-line to see if your tow vehicle and towed vehicle are an "approved" vehicle.
I "suspect" that tow vehicle weight and wheelbase are factored into the Uhaul GO/NO GO decision.
Example: Three years ago, I was going to buy a 1954 Studebaker post coupe - about a 200 mile tow. The 1986 Ford F150 short bed was a "NO GO". The wife's 2012 Nissan Frontier crew cab was "approved" and I made an on-line reservation for pickup at a Uhaul dealer near the seller.
The Stude had major hidden rust issues - OH-POOP - cancelled my reservation and drove home.
On the U-haul web site they have a video of how a trailer reacts to being loaded heavy in back and in front. If you are ever going to pull a trailer, it’s a great video to watch.
Wow, thanks for all the great replies. Looks likes the U-haul trailer will be a go.
True but the cars that I have hauled are too old to show up on their approved list so be ready to substitute something equal to what you are planning to transport.
Hauled a Firebird with big tires 100 miles behind my F150. Saw the straps over the tires had fell off but I had chained it front and rear.
best designed trailers that I have seen, very user friendly.
Have used those trailers several times.
Rugged, ugly, and smooth rolling. They've phased the older U-haul orange units out for the silver galvanized units around here. A lot easier to hose off and less likely to get visual tetanus.
Definitely check the trailer before taking off. Have had low tire pressure, missing hardware, broken hardware, not properly hooked up, or my favorite the kid hooked up a trailer that was meant to be serviced as one of the main bolts for holding the tongue(surge brake system) onto the trailer was sheered off
Same as everyone else. 1950 Mercury w/ ‘94 1500 p/u over the grapevine and 1960 Studebaker wagon from AZ with same truck on the 8 (over the hill).
I hauled a 1957 Ford Thunderbird from SE Iowa to Colorado Springs on a U-Haul trailer with no issue. It pulled straight and couldn't even really tell it was there. I went about 80mph the whole way.
I figured I was the only one here that ran derby LOL
Uhaul probably wonders why I am always hauling 64/65 Nova's, lol
Used one to pick up my 39. No troubles at all.
Not a hot rod by a long shot but this little Nova followed me home from Spokane on a U-Haul trailer. Trailered like a charm. 7 hours, most at freeway speeds.
Uhaul didn't seem to have a problem with the '50 Dodge I was going to transport. I didn't mention the '23 T I was bringing back. They did have a problem with towing with my Jeep Wrangler jk, so I borrowed my buddy and his 3/4 ton truck. No problems either way...
I tried to rent one and they refused to rent it to me. I have a Z71 Chevy Silverado 1/2 ton with a tow package, said I need a 3/4 ton truck. They wanted to rent me a U-Haul box truck to tow they're trailer.
Quick question while I have your trailer ears. I just bought this for $200 with new tires, registered, was a camper. I want to use it to tow my little Bantam if we take it somewhere distant. Want to lower it down. It looks like I could just drill new spring holes. Right now there's 4.5 inches between the U bolts and the frame. The leaf springs can go about 2 inches before they are dead flat. So you figure I could go up 2 inches on the holes? Figure 2,000lb. load with the Bantam, plywood and maybe a tool box.
Personally I'd set the trailer up with everything first and then worry about ride height. If you lower the trailer too much, every time you pull into a servo (gas station), the rear of the trailer is going to catch on the kerb.
Also, I guarantee you will eventually add more gear to the trailer and therefore more weight so it will naturally sit lower.
Good point, thanks! Getting ahead of myself..
If I do drill new holes I'll leave the brackets long.
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