The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by JorgeFleet48, Aug 30, 2022.
You can use the 6 volt flywheel and starter also... It just spins faster with 12 volts
ha ha ha I am, different animal for sure. from light and fast to heavy and much slower, but im digging it
I’d drive that.
Let's try not to make the mistake of assuming that all hot rods are "heavy and much slower".
I see your Fox body Mustang, and I would raise you a big block T bucket any day of the week........
Glad to see you already get the cool factor.
good point there,
6 volt starter has different tooth count on the drive gear than the 12 volt starter drive gear . That’s why You need to keep 12 volt parts with 12 volt parts . You can use the 6 volt starter and hook it up to 12 volts . It will spin faster and will last just as long as a 12 volt starter would . Just don’t crank on it for a long time if the engine doesn’t start right away . The armature will get hot enough to melt the solder out of the windings . Good Luck with Your build . I apologize if I sounded like a A hole . But Your question was a little clueless. I’m gathering pieces , parts and info to replace a 216 with a GMC 302 in a OT 1 1/2 ton truck. Finding people with the correct knowledge can be a challenge.
no sweat. I am currently tearing the 235 apart to send out to the machine shop. I want the motor and trans pretty much done before i even tear into the car. I wanna make sure the heart will beat before i begin the body surgery. good luck to ya too.
Good morning fellas,
After an okay night of sleep, I have a few more questions (which I'll make sure to write correctly , learned my lesson there) for the inline 6 pros in here.
I have the 1955 235
I can get a 1956 PG for $100 (lesson from yesterday, this badboy is an auto lol)
To make this work, I would need to swap in an automatic steering column, and while at it, the torque tube and a rear end in the same year range 55to57ish with the 3.55 gears.... and all other bits and pieces.
'56 transmission is open drive, so a corresponding open differential and a (probably) custom length driveshaft would be in order.
I don't know if the business is still up and running, but Patrick's Antique Auto in Arizona used to have a pretty extensive article about installing later 235s in earlier cars.
Yeap not going that route. Let me ask you, is there a year where the PG was matched with a torque tube?
one feature of early powerglides (cast iron, i believe) is that you could push-start them.
1950-54, the '53-'54 units being preferred.
Yes, even the aluminum PGs had both a front and rear pump for the first few years.
Converting to an open drive with the 56 PG is something you should consider. You can get a 55-57 Chevy car rearend and it is almost a bolt-in. Just beware the leaf spring pin is not the center of the axle, it's about 2 inches forward. So just redrill the rearend spring pad with a new hole 2 inches in front. Or since you may want it lowered, use a block and have offset holes/pins for the swap. Several vendors sell this already made for the swap.
The advantage of the open drive rear is you can get almost any ratio you want. Besides the 55-57 rear, you can use many other choices that are around 59-60 inches width at the wheel mounting surface. You may need to weld new spring pads on a different rear, but that's pretty easy. Just pay attention to U-joint angles.
99% sure the 1948 Chevy was 16” wheels and might be 6 lugs so that would be a consideration if going to 55-57 open drive line; front/back wheels wouldn’t match.
Same problem if you use 49-54 rear with closed driveshaft PowerGlide.
edit: 49-57 wheels are 15” and interchangeable.
Good catch, I forgot his car is a 48 and most likely stock 6 lug. 49-up are 5 lug as you stated. He could also swap some 49-54 5 lug front hubs and drums to match a 5 lug rear. This will also provide more wheel choices than staying with 6 lug.
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