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Trans hump help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 021k26rr, Oct 26, 2009.

  1. 021k26rr
    Joined: Oct 3, 2008
    Posts: 79

    021k26rr
    Member
    from TN

    I have a 54 chevy car I am building and I am currently working on the floors.I am gonna run a 250 six and a 700r trans.So my question is how far and wide do I have to make my trans hump to clear the new hardware.My car will be laying rocker so I'm already going to be putting in a new tunnel.I just need to know how much deeper it needs to be overall and how much wider and deeper at the fire wall.ANy pics would be greatly helpfull.The body is off the frame right now and I really wanna do it all at once.

    Thanks
    Ben
     
  2. lowelife
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 399

    lowelife
    Member

    I would probably cut out the old one to start with and slowly trim it away as the body comes down. Finish the tunnel from inside after its on the frame.
     
  3. 021k26rr
    Joined: Oct 3, 2008
    Posts: 79

    021k26rr
    Member
    from TN

    Ideally that would be the easiest thingf to do but,I'm gonna paint the underside of the car and I would really like to put the body on once if at all possible.
     
  4. hotrodfrank
    Joined: Jul 28, 2009
    Posts: 98

    hotrodfrank
    Member
    from dearing,ga

    you have to have the body on the car, with the engine and trans mounted to know where to put the tunnel, take the steps to put it together and give a little space between your trans and tunnel, it will fill up quicker that you think, with shifter, fluid lines andothers,
     

  5. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member

    Wouldn't we all......*sigh*
     
  6. With careful measuring and perhaps some cardboard templates to emulate the tranny shape, you could do it with only minor trimming later and a couple touch ups underneath paint wise. Put the engine and trans togehter in a mock up stage and start measuring - sometimes you just got to go out and do it!
     
  7. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,290

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    Agreed, measure twice, cut or pound once. I would think you could put that in without any work at all, since the Cast Iron POWERSLIDE was a pretty big sucka.
     
  8. HotRodBen1987
    Joined: Jul 29, 2009
    Posts: 691

    HotRodBen1987
    BANNED

    Probably be best to cut the old hump out, get your drivetrain in and set the body over the frame, then make your new hump and tack it in. Now take the body back off and finish the hump, then paint underneath.
     
  9. Hyway Hauler
    Joined: Aug 31, 2009
    Posts: 670

    Hyway Hauler
    Member

    What Ben said..^
     
  10. 29nash
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 4,542

    29nash
    BANNED
    from colorado

    Just hope you only have to take the body off ONCE. Expect to take it off more than that. Good luck.
     
  11. Laying rocker? Huh.
     
  12. HotRodBen1987
    Joined: Jul 29, 2009
    Posts: 691

    HotRodBen1987
    BANNED

    Bagged and probably body dropped (channeled). Mini truckin terms
     
  13. thirty7slammed
    Joined: Sep 1, 2007
    Posts: 886

    thirty7slammed
    BANNED
    from earth

    Thats a good thought, but this stuff don't work that way. Are you going to replace the entire floor or just the tunnel? You say your layin rocker, are you going to channel the body, if so your going to have to cut the entire floor anyway. I'd cut out the area your going to have interference with set the body on the chassis, measure, make poster board templates that fit, then make your sheetmetal.
     
  14. Oh.....kay. Got it, thanks.
     
  15. chopt49
    Joined: Jul 5, 2006
    Posts: 945

    chopt49
    Member

    I would build the trans cover and tunnel once car is back on the frame with trans and drive-shaft in place. I am doing this on my car this week, see pix. I built the "first" trans cover with the body off, bad move, so I am rebuilding it.
     

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