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Trailer Suggestions?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Clik, Oct 14, 2010.

  1. Clik
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,965

    Clik
    Member

    I'm going to need a trailer soon. Before I make a mistake and buy something I wish I hadn't, is there anything I should consider when buying one?

    I'm planning on an open trailer.

    Some of my cars sit really low and fairly long (56 Olds and 70 Impala).

    Do trailer fenders prevent car door from opening or are removable fenders an option?

    Ramps or tilt?

    Width?

    Open center pros/cons?

    Weight considerations? If I stay under 10,000 GVW I can avoid CDL hassles if I tow with a heavy truck.
     
  2. You might ought to put on your racing fire suit and welding goggles 'cause you're gonna get FLAMED for even THINKING about trailering a car and talking about it on the HAMB.

    I'm just sayin'... :)
     
  3. Tilt for sure. And I won't flame ya over the whole trailer thing I my junk wasn't road worthy I'd get a trailer myself.
     
  4. Triggerman
    Joined: Nov 18, 2006
    Posts: 578

    Triggerman
    Member
    from NorCal

    In spite of what Yellowrr posted, I will chime in with advice. If your cars are really low then I would wholeheartedly suggest buying a roll back trailer. My Dad owns a '60 T-bird that is loooow even though it is stock. We could never have loaded it with ramps. That roll back is the cat's ass for loading and unloading as well. Now the bad news, for low and wide cars the trailer fenders are almost always in the way of opening the car door. Get ready to enter and exit your car NASCAR style.
     

  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,931

    squirrel
    Member

    Depends what you're using it for, how often, and how much money you have. You didn't tell us, so we have to guess to suggest something for you.

    I have a really cheezy old flatbed trailer with tall, stationary fenders, it makes hauling cars kind of a pain. So I drive my stuff. But the trailer works great for hauling new projects home, and hauling scrap and other stuff, and hauling my friends' cars home when they buy something new.
     
  6. HotRodChassis
    Joined: Jan 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,282

    HotRodChassis
    Alliance Vendor

    What's a '70 Impala?
     
  7. A boat, hence the need for a trailer.
     
  8. coolbreeze1340
    Joined: Aug 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,340

    coolbreeze1340
    Member
    from Indiana

    I have been chasing the same question. I need one for hauling parts and future projects. I am really thinking about heading towards an enclosed. I would like a custom toy hauler. Add some windows, fold-down beds, electric hook-up, etc. and I have a double duty as a camper! I am sick of the $150 per night hotel rooms cutting into my "travel" budget. Yeah it would suck hauling my car on overnight trips but you can't fit camping gear in a Model A and it would be nice for a "home base" on week long vacations with the rod or our bikes.
    The drop down door on the enclosed trailers seem to handle the lowest of cars if you crank down the front jack.
     
  9. Pete1930
    Joined: May 5, 2006
    Posts: 321

    Pete1930
    Member
    from Boston

    I use my trailer to tow my Jeep around when I go wheeling. I like the open deck, because I can fairly easily walk/duck under the Jeep and see if I've damaged anything offroad.

    I've got a fairly tall trailer, with an angled-down back, so the fenders aren't that tall off the deck, but for a low custom they still might be a problem. My E-type fits on it fine though, and I can get in and out easily. The E is pretty tight getting on/off with the ramps and the angled back - she doens't bottom out, but comes close driving on/off.

    Brakes - I've got brakes on both axles, and with the heavy Jeep on it, I like having strong trailer brakes. My Suburban is only a 1/2 ton, so it's only got 1/2 ton brakes.

    Just my $0.02.
    Good luck,
    Pete
     

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  10. RustyNCA
    Joined: Feb 18, 2009
    Posts: 410

    RustyNCA
    Member

    I have a friend that has told me he at times has used his toy hauler for his 29 Tudor. It's not a custom toy hauler, but it is a large 5th wheel toy hauler designed to haul a bunch of quads. He said it was rated by capacity to handle the weight of his Model A right out the box with no mods. I would say his Model A is about 2" off the ground bout as low as you can get a car.

    He uses it in the exact way you are describing, home base overnight...
     
  11. xlr8er
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 136

    xlr8er
    Member

    I would agree with CoolBreeze. An enclosed trailer is the way to go if you can. I bought one and if nothing else, it's a mobile garage. It can be used for storing parts or whatever when not in use as an actual trailer. I have used mine to haul ATV's to state trails and it works very well as a 'locker room'. I can go inside, change into ratty clothes, go out and get all muddy, return, change into normal clothes and not look like a slob on the way home. Another advantage is that they can be locked up - much more secure than an open unit. They're more expensive but well worth the cost. Best of luck with your purchase!!
     
  12. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,244

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I think you'd like enclosed too. I disagree with it being storage. You need to empty it to use so, uhh...

    Anyways, they can double as a sleeper if you're so inclined. I spent last week in ours at Hershey in the campground. No too bad really, and no bed bugs!! Times are tight and you can buy a whole lotta trailer right now from the back pages of Nat'l Dragster and Drag Review. People need to down-size. Better to help a guy selling than buy new sometimes and most of em are already "romanced" to a nice level. Most enclosed will handle low cars as is. The downside is where to keep it and security over the last 5 or more years. Again not too hard to manage if you think it through. Good luck. Oh yeah, open trailer? Full floor, or at a minimum removeable center plates. Open center=dirt and mud under your nice clean car. Just sayin...
     
  13. bobj49f2
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,926

    bobj49f2
    Member

    I believe you should drive your vehicle whenever you can but some times it's just not practical. I bought a tilt bed trailer 4-5 years ago and haven't regretted one second. I bought it to haul a motorless panel truck 800 miles from PA to WI. Since then I have picked up about a dozen non running project and parts cars for me and friends. I've also picked up broke down daily drivers at least 5 times for family and friends. I also use it for my business to haul projects and supplies.

    The tilt bed will allow you to haul lower cars than you can with most ramp equipped trailers. My trailer has a solid wood floor which comes in handy if I need to nail blocks down to secure a load in place.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  14. Tilt beds are nice. I like an open bottom old race car style trailor. Their are times when a car is low or disabled that it is nice to get under it to tie it down. After dragging home dads 56 I will add an electric winch to my list as a must have. Removable fenders as well.
     
  15. Boeing Bomber
    Joined: Aug 5, 2010
    Posts: 1,079

    Boeing Bomber
    Member

    I saw a trailer that had fold down fenders. They hinged in front, and behind the wheels, and tilted 90 degrees down. Real trick
     
  16. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    My last car hauler tilted but never used it, never needed to. I've used an aluminum car hauler trailer and my tow vehicle really liked that (F150). I've been looking for a vintage single axle race trailer lately since I've rented a Uhaul like 6 times while building my T Roadster. Although, it'd be nice to have something that could be used for more purposes other than towing my roadster(s).
     

  17. An electric winch is a must have on an open trailer! just weld it down or better yet make it removable on a hitch/reciver so you can use it with other rigs

    after the last one was stolen mine does not stay on the trailer
     
  18. bobj49f2
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,926

    bobj49f2
    Member

    I wouldn't use a single axle trailer to haul a car. If you blow a tire at highway speed I like the idea of have at least one wheel left on one side. I bought a panel truck that had major damage that indicated it was involved in a roll over. It also had a heavy home made trailer hitch with faded lettering on the side for an old racing team. I have seen old pictures of race cars being hauled around on singe axle trailer and I'd bet that old panel truck was hauling a single axle trailer and flipped when a tire blew.
     
  19. uglydog56
    Joined: Apr 8, 2008
    Posts: 331

    uglydog56
    Member


    lmao!!!
     
  20. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    I hear ya... but I've had a utility trailer for years with a single 3500# axle as well as a ski boat with single axles. Both had more than any of my Ts will ever weigh loaded onto them and gone further than I'd ever need to tow without issue. I believe in preventative maintainence, ritual check-ups, and using my mirrors while I'm driving. I'm not saying it couldn't happen to me, but I wouldn't be scared to use a single axle trailer (for what I need to be hauled).
     
  21. LOL, out loud! Cracked me up, Benno.
     
  22. uglydog56
    Joined: Apr 8, 2008
    Posts: 331

    uglydog56
    Member

    My brother has a tilt bed, and I don't like it that much, and you wouldn't either if you had to help push his stupid car up it after he broke the rearend as many times as I had. My friend Jimmy had a flatbed one with a dropped tail, and it was way easier to push the car onto after the pinion shot out the center chunk. I have an enclosed, with a dropped tail, and a winch in the front, and it is the best hands down, although I bought too long of one and it won't fit in tight neighborhoods or driveways. Get a 24ft enclosed with a dropped tail, that's my 2cents. They are on racingjunk used all the time.
     
  23. I am very happy with my 18' Big Tex steel deck car hauler. I welded E Track to my floor deck and with wheel nets I can easily load and tie down my vehicle.
     
  24. brad chevy
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    brad chevy
    Member

    I rented a u-haul car hauler a few times got tired of renting so looked around for trailer to buy and all the new one I looked at are overpriced and cheaply put together,so I checked with u-haul and they sell their used trailers,I paid $1400 for mine new tires ,new wheel straps ,self contained braking setup ,pull out ramps,drivers side fold down fender,have hauled alot of different cars on it and had no problem loading at all and this thing is made for hauling cars,not lawn mowers like most and it pulls great.And having a trailer to haul cars on is not a bad thing,have helped a few buddies out broke down side the road and make a few dollars at the swapmeet hauling non-running projects home for people.
     
  25. ems customer service
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 2,634

    ems customer service
    Member

    the next car coming into your shop for work cause the guys got cash
     
  26. ems customer service
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 2,634

    ems customer service
    Member

    yes a trailer is a must.

    1) 60's & 70's cars are wider and you need a wider trailer in the indutry it would called a 102" wide (tire to tire)

    2) removable fenders would be nice but i think not required on the wide trailer

    3) tilt back is more expensive and would require a stronger winch to pull the car on. for low cars i use 2 diff options i have ramp extension onto my main ramps and i carry a large block of wood to put under the crank stand up front i can raise the front of the trailer about 10" this gives me better angle for the low car to enter the trailer

    4) electric winch a must!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and with its own battery i do not run it off the tow vechile. although it can recharge slowly from the tow vechile ticky wiring not to burn up the trailer wires if you ru the bat down low.

    5) brakes on both axles many companys only put brakes on one axle

    6) trailer axles do not have a lot of reserve built in the capacity so go with 4500# axles.

    7) trailer tires used are often undersized for price. quality trailer tires with extra load capacity

    7.5) i aviod wooden decks they will rot

    8) spare tire- you will love when you need it

    9) and quality tow straps, qty 4 to hold axle/aframe and then 4 more to keep body from bouncing on the shocks and a few extra to strap down doors hood trunks, and fenders when getting a project.

    9.5) heavy duty forged hooks mounted on the trailer to hook straps to.

    10) insurance on the trialer your tow vechile does not cover everthing and trailers like to disappear.

    11 and the right hitch on the tow vech if the trailer is nose high it wont pull safely and reduces braking performance

    12 the best brake controller you can find make sure it has enough amps to handle the trailer brakes

    13 ez lube axle on trailer

    14 extra axle parts wheel bearing caps grease again you will love when you need it

    11) a title a used trailer with no docs is a hassle with the highway patrol


    fyi: i tow way to much and have learned the hard way for all of the above items.
     
  27. ryno
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,470

    ryno
    Member

    hows about a ramp over style?
    custom build one to your needs.
    [​IMG]
     
  28. ryno
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,470

    ryno
    Member

  29. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    I trailer vehicles a lot and have been using a Sloan's Kwik Load rollback/tilt trailer now for at least 6 years and love it! It doesn't require a jack or electric power to tilt. It has a manual brake that is applied to lock the wheels, unlatch the the deck, back up the tow vehicle and the deck rolls back and tilts in one easy operation. Because the deck rolls rearward it allows the car doors to be opened for entry/exit without impacting the fenders. The fenders are easily removable however. When loaded, pull forward and the deck moves forward and levels. I also welded on a Reese style receiver tube at the front and use a Warn winch cradle that slips into the receiver. WHile one could use an onboard battery on the trailer, I prefer to use long "jumper cables" (actually '0' welding cable) with fork lift style quick connectors and a short cable.connector at the battery of my truck and another on the winch. Raise the hood, snap the cable together at each end and presto!........instant poer winch.

    I agree with several recommendations above about dual axle brakes (std on the Sloan's), use heavy duty, good quality tires, carry a comparable spare, jack and lug wrench and a spare bearing set doesn't hurt. However, I am very conscientious about maintaining my wheel bearings and have never, to date, had an on road bearing problem. Tires were an occasional problem until I bought quality HD tires.

    I have found the rollback/tilt combo to be extremely useful for loading and transporting all sorts of things and have absolutely never regretted buying it. Yhey currently list for about $3800 and are, in my opinion, worth every penny.

    Ray
     
  30. A friend and I built my trailer in 2000. I've put around 80K miles on it, hauling cars and trucks through nearly 30 states. Here is what I have:

    It's an 18' trailer officially, but the overall deck length (with dovetail) is 19.4 feet. I have a steel dove with a wood deck. Don't let a wood deck scare you, they're actually much more versatile than a steel deck, and here is why...A load on a wood deck has a far less tendency to slide when you load, especially in the wet. Loading a steel deck can get damn scary, especially with something like a tractor or a race car! There is a REASON semi flatbeds and box trailers have WOOD floors! Same reasoning applies to a car hauler. Plus, with a wood deck, it is easier to load non-vehicle loads such as sod, lumber, palletized cargo and the like. I'm a HUGE fan of wood decks. They'll last five years, easily, if you treat them annually and have to store outside. The wood deck on a trailer stored inside can last twice that, no sweat! I've had my trailer ten years now, and this is my third deck, which is maybe a year old now.

    I have electric brakes on both axles (3,500# five-lug 5-on-5), and just this month, replaced all four after ten years. I also have a breakaway box. The safety chains are much larger than normal - more like you'd see on a fifth wheel or gooseneck trailer.

    There are "D"-rings on each corner, and a Ramsey 5K winch up front, with the battery tray mounted in front of it.

    Frame construction is 5" C-channel frame and wrap tongue, with 4x3 angle crossmembers on 18" spacings. Ramps stow from the rear - do NOT have your ramps store from the sides! First time you have to load/unload when parked between vehicles will teach you that side ramps are NOT a good idea! I padlock both ramp doors at all times - never had ramps escape or walk away yet!

    I use LED taillights with regular side markers and DOT reflective tape. Wiring is in conduit from front to rear.

    Tires are 8-ply bias 700-15 on modular steel wheels. Coupler is a Bulldog 7K hammerblow-style. Jack is a single 7K unit with an adjustable landing gear.

    The gap you see in my decking is intentional. I can hook my winch hook to any of the crossmembers when not in use, plus I did not feel like ripping a board to fit!

    This has hauled every kind of car from a Viper, to a Corvette, to a '50 Dodge H-H-A 2-ton flatbed truck, to six thousand pounds of stone, without issues or fender clearance problems. The fenders are not removable, and have never needed them to be.

    In the end, it's what YOU plan on doing with the trailer is ultimately the deciding factor about what style, features, and price you work with.
     

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