Technical Traditional Paint - How do I achieve 'the look'?

So after spending the last 13 years on my mild custom 50 Ford, I'm actually getting closer to paint stage and to be honest it scares the shit outta me. It's not that it'll not turn out good but probably that it'll be too good, as in too deep or too shiney. I wasn't there in the late 50s-early 60s which is my target but looking at many pics the paint finish was just more subtle.
What is it I need to tell the painter or is it just choosing a painter who gets it? Are there certain paints, metallics to look for?
Thanks


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How close have you looked at the customs of yesteryear? They busted their asses off to hand rub in between each boat of lacquer. And, I once had a pretty much bone stock fifty two-door in the sixties with factory paint, that with a good wax job would knock your eye out it was so shiny. Put your fears aside and paint it with one of the new candy-type modern paints, and be glad you don't have to wear off your finger prints sanding it seven , ten, twenty times. Candy Black Cherry would look mighty fine fine on the shoebox Ford seen in the pictures you posted. Don't worry. Be happy. Life's a bowl of cherries.

 

I'm using acrylic lacquer.

 

Lacquer

 

I prefer acrylic enamel with a high gloss hardener.

 

I would worry less about the quality of paint today than the poor quality of the pic's in those great old magazines, or owners photo's from low tech film, processing, and cameras. My dad brought me along to every car show, swap meet or race he went to. Those cars at the show's were gleaming. Any car with primer was having work done,(shaved nose, deck or door handles), or was waiting to get in the booth. Unless you are trying to an authentic restoration of factory baseline quality I say let the paint fly!

 

As has been mentioned Lacquer. I don't know what's legal where you are, but acrylic lacquer is available.

You other option is single stage enamel, that was used a lot too. It was a paint for a lower budget car back then.

 

I like acrylic enamel, then cut and buff. Lacquer is also great but time consuming and can be hard to find, but the right stuff looks amazing.

Metallics and lacquer clears were already available by your time period but I personally don't think the new modern equivalents look the same as some of the old paint jobs Ive seen. A period build painted with super modern day paint can often stick out as looking out of place.

Great bodywork and super shiny buffed paint is historically accurate as long as you're using the correct materials.

 

I completely get the “scares the shot out of you” comment. Right there with you.

I shopped for a painter that “got it”. He is using state of the art paint and equipment but assured me the gloss would be “in” the paint and not just “on” the surface. That’s the difference you are seeing.

It’s about the prep and the gun used with the new stuff he claims. I’ve seen some ‘60’s style cars he’s done the paint work for on some restorations and they look right. He understands. All painters want to do their best work so it’s hard for them to drop back just a touch.

SPark

 

There used to be 2 kinds of repaints, "back in the day". Enamel for cheap, everyday cars, and lacquer for the more discerning guys. On customs, lacquer was the choice, many coats of it.
Now, to a real paint connoisseur, you can see the difference between modern paints, and a great lacquer job. The modern BC/CC will be shiny, but with no real depth, unless its a Tri Coat, Candy, or Pearl job. Even solid colors in lacquer have nice depth, and will shine, and have a mirror finish, if done correctly (even without clear).
So do your lacquer job right, and quit worrying about it looking too nice...NOTHING beats the look of a well done, black nitro lacquer job!
BTW, if you can't get lacquer, I can give you away to get close with modern paints.....

 

There is a place in Georgia that sells acrylic lacquer.PPG DURACRYL IN WHITE WAS 650.00 A GALLON but reduced 1.5 to 1 you only need a gallon!

 

I've used lacquer and like the single stage urethanes. You have to sand and buff lacquer and it doesn't hold up as well as the modern paints. If you are planning on a metallic you have to be careful with lacquer or will sand thru coats which causes stripes. I like the single stage because the base clears have a real glassy look and don't hold up as well as single stage paints.

 

I used to paint everything in lacquer until acrylic enamel hit the scene. I can't imagine anything nicer than 20 coats of lacquer color sanded between coats and rubbed out. As far as longevity, I've seen quite a few 50 year old G.M. cars with original paint (lacquer) that looked pretty good.

 

Thanks for all the great information. I'm in New Zealand and don't think we have restrictions on what paints can be used but I'll need to do some asking around. Cheers


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Where abouts in NZ are you? You can still get lacquer easily enough, find a PPG stockist.
I have had several cars painted in the past with lacquer and the main issue with it is it chips easily as it dries very hard.
I have just had my 39 Chev coupe painted in BC/CC and am very pleased with the look and depth of shine. It comes down to the painter. Mine specialises in hot rods.
Russell

 

PPG no longer makes automtive lacquer paint. They announced in April that it was being discontinued due to lack of sales.

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Check out tcpglobal restoration shop paint, single stage and lacquer, also check out autocolor library. The sites are related.

My opinion. Single color - enamel. metallics or candy - lacquer. Unless you can shoot single stage metallic enamel New paint systems will out perform both but have a little different look that will only be noticeable to a select few.

 

Is that worldwide? I have a bit to do with the paint industry and I haven't heard anything. All of our PPG lacquers are made in Australia.

 

That I am not sure. The notification I saw didn't specify just said they were discontinuing the Duracryl line other than thinnners and one primer if I recall.

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I'm on the Northshore, Auckland. Who did you use to paint your Chev? Also, was it you that offered the use of a 303 Olds block to set up my engine mounts? I've got an Olds being built in the States but would like to sort mounts before the engine arrives around Christmas. Thanks


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Yep the Olds block is yours if you want it. Johnny Antonievich painted the coupe, he does great work, specialising in old cars. He is based in Pukekohe. Let me know if you want to pick up that block.
Russell.

 

Single stage (no base coat clear coat) is what I would choose.
The scary thing is spending so much on a paint job that you are affraid to drive it!

 

You deserve a congratulation on your perseverance and attention to detail on the extraordinary amount of work you have achieved. It brings back scary memories for us of what we did to our shoebox .
Personally I feel you may be over thinking the finish aspect ,you will most likely be the only one who understands the finish you want. A cheaper paint such as Lesanol may get you in the right direction. I have used it on a couple of budget builds for guys.
I would stick to PPG or DuPont base coat clear coat . My 2 cents.

 

Exactly right.
The biggest cost of any paint job is in the preparation, don't cheap out on the finish product. I would seriously recommend BC/CC for the longevity of it.

 

Thanks. August marks 23 years since in freighted the coupe from North Carolina so I've learned a lot about patience as well as detailed knowledge of every inch of a single spinner! Thanks for the paint info. I'm looking to go metallic so that may decide the type/brand of paint. The coupes original colour was Bimini Metallic Blue. I polished up what was left of the paint on the firewall and it was a very subtle Metallic compared to modern paints which appeals to me. If there's one thing I'm good at with this car, it's over thinking!


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Yeah I'll wait and save before I go cheap on paint!

Thanks for the use of the Olds block. The coupe is in Pukekohe at the moment so will contact you in the next few weeks when I'm heading out to work on it.


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I hear ya. Last week I had two people drive into my truck in two days!


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How does base coat clear coat hold up over time? Or should I say, how do they deteriorate over time. I can't imagine them having the old patina look that some of us really like. I think it will be more of the skin cancer look that you see on the late model POS cars from Detroit that have the shitty BCCC paint jobs!

 

Do what you want, but a boner has hit the nail on the head for those of us who actually drive our hot rods. You can fuss over and spend a LOT of money on your paint, but when the fat chick in the mini-van crunches your quarter panel you'll wish you'd just given it a decent single-stage urethane paint job. Trust me, been there done that.

But...the dirty little secret is that NOBODY BESIDES YOU will appreciate all the time and money that you put into your paint job anyway.