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Technical Torqueflite ??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 34Larry, Oct 2, 2017.

  1. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,413

    southcross2631
    Member

    Your welcome. 727 transmissions are famous for leaking at the shift shaft seal and people think it is the pan gasket because the fluid runs down the side of the case.
     
    squirrel likes this.
  2. blownhemi48
    Joined: Nov 17, 2009
    Posts: 243

    blownhemi48
    Member
    from Bergen NY

    That adapter appears to be an old B&M that adapted a big block torqueflite and I believe '56 Chevy six starter. Trans Dapt made a two piece sandwich type adapter to mount a Chevy turbo 350/400 to the early Hemi. That's what's currently in the Ron Bizio Willys gasser pick up with a turbo 400.
     
  3. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,738

    34Larry
    Member

    Boy sc2631 you probably hit it right on the head with the shift shaft. At first I was certain it was the pan seal and of course it wasn't.
    Last week I sealed the cooler line fitting just below that shaft as best I could with the best marine black seal known and sure thought that was it.
    Well next morning, fluid on the floor.
    Reading what you said, I looked at the pic and I see that that is probably it. Well sitting here at the computer, I'd guess in order to fix that the trans has to come out. Big job that, having to pull the hemi and trans out together. Don't think I'm up to that any time soon so a drain pan will have to suffice for the time being. Damn!!!!!!!!!!
     
  4. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,738

    34Larry
    Member

    Yup, I had the starter rebuilt and learned then what it is. Surprised to learn from you it is a six banger though. Thanks for the info.
     
  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,086

    squirrel
    Member

    depending on how hard it is to access the seal, you may or may not have to pull the trans to replace it. There is a special tool that will remove the seal without removing anything other than the TV and shift levers. Of course you also have to be able to tap the new seal into place, which takes a little bit of working room.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/141996189930
     
  6. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,413

    southcross2631
    Member

    Replaced many of them still in the car. Remove the selector and kickdown arms I made a tool to get under the seal and pry it out. Then a deep socket and hammer will reinstall the seal . Go slow be careful and it will work. Worse case you just drop the pan and valve body and drive the seal out from the bottom and put the new seal in before installing the valve body. Never pulled trans for a shift shaft seal.
     
  7. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,086

    squirrel
    Member

    a friend recently cut a hole in the floor of his car to replace one... :)
     
  8. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,413

    southcross2631
    Member

    Cut a hole in the firewall with a hole saw once to change the freeze plug in the back of the head on a car. Gave the customer the price for pulling the head or cutting the hole and he said drill it out ,used a rubber expandable freeze plug to fix the firewall after I changed the freeze plug
     
  9. 1930 A
    Joined: Apr 8, 2006
    Posts: 133

    1930 A
    Member

    I didn't see it mentioned in any answer that a 727 trans needs to have the fluid checked in neutral with engine running. If you check it in park it will read over full because the convertor doesn't charge completely in park. If it's been mentioned elsewhere ignore my post.
     
  10. F.O.G
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 259

    F.O.G
    Member
    from Pacific,Mo

    T/flites leak at the shift shaft after extended periods of sitting because of converter
    drainback causing fluid level to rise in trans, As stated earlier there is no need to pull
    trans to change seal. Your armpits will be well lubed doing it.
     
  11. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,738

    34Larry
    Member

    Hey guys, I'm thankful for the info on the seal. I've been under it for the last two days, today being the third when I get out there today. Cleaned it down good with brake cleaner and could not see any fluid running down from the shift lever to the case after its sitting over night. I did however notice what looked like a break in the gasket in that area, and so I sealed it up good, replaced a bolt that was not tight that mounts the Lokar shift linkage through the pan with a longer one and tightened it down. Even though, I repeated cleaning it again and let it sit over night and still no leak at the shaft, but there was a small amount of fluid on the floor after the first night. So I figured it might have run down off the frame as residue fluid so I gave all that area the cleaner/air treatment yesterday and again let it sit over night.
    So headed out to the shop now to check. I'm going to drop this now, but if there is some more input I sure welcome anything at all.
    Knowing that the seal can be installed without pulling the tran. helps and that being the case and having a chronic painful back, it will most likely go into the shop that rebuilt the converter for me.
    Thanks so much again, so great to have HAMB friends.
     
  12. Larry..........if it makes you feel any better the cast iron T/f in my 1940 Dodge has a habit of marking its territory as well..........not a lot but has been doing so for a long time, its problem appears to be coming from the area where the shift cable enters the gearbox which is not a very well designed setup or from the kickdown shaft seal...........both K/D shaft seal and the cable O ring have been replaced a couple of times.............it just seems like it leaks when it wants to............lol..............good luck with yours...............andyd
     

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