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Featured Hot Rods Top Banana Style Slingshot Dragster- Marty Strode-Chris Kopp.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Marty Strode, Apr 7, 2024.

  1. I’m also amazed at the talent Marty possesses. Truly incredible
     
    chryslerfan55 and chriskopp like this.
  2. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,982

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Another buddy that has done body work for me for 30 years is moving back closer to me. He will do the final assembly of my 40 pickup. I can’t wait to see it push starting the Dragster. Just another reason to have a clutch and transmission, instead of a Powerglide. IMG_3872.jpeg IMG_3869.jpeg
     
    brEad, porkshop, Just Gary and 15 others like this.
  3. y'sguy
    Joined: Feb 25, 2008
    Posts: 704

    y'sguy
    Member
    from Tulsa, OK

    Will this be a closed cockpit? If so how do you deal with smoke issues? Does it just blow out quickly, I hope. Or may be it's no issue at all.
     
  4. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,982

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Yes, it will be closed. Are you talking tire smoke ? If so, I don't see that as a problem, and the exhaust pipes should be an aid. Top Banana 2.jpg
     
  5. y'sguy
    Joined: Feb 25, 2008
    Posts: 704

    y'sguy
    Member
    from Tulsa, OK

    Ok, I guess I am asking about potential hazard smoke. Like lubricant spill or something like that. Maybe this doesn't occur like I presumed it might. And come to think of it if the engine is built right , it shouldn't.
     
  6. Larry Anderson
    Joined: Jul 15, 2013
    Posts: 276

    Larry Anderson
    Member

    Well, do you have a calendar on the wall counting down the days until Toutle?
     
    chryslerfan55 and chriskopp like this.
  7. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,982

    Marty Strode
    Member

    The first Dragster that Kent Fuller built, Daddy O’ s Diner.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2024
  8. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,982

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Today, Tim @Blown Red Ram brought me the parts to set up the 3rd member, a new set of 4.30 gears, a lightweight 30 spline spool, and a bearing set. He also brought an NOS set of American 12 spokes. It turns out the wheels were for Anglia/P&S spindles. My first thought was to profile and shorten a set of 37-41 Ford spindles, so they would work. I remembered a set of Fords I took of a front axle, that had 6 hole Chevy hubs and drum brakes. I don't how many times I nearly threw them in the scrap pile. It turns out the machine work that was done, has me half way there. The rear bearing from the 12 spokes fits perfect on the modified spindles. It will require, running the threads back about 3/8 of an inch, sweating on a sleeve, and turning it down to fit the new outer bearing on the snout. I will also polish the the outside lip, front and back on the 21 spokes. Also, the NHRA Tech Inspector dropped by yesterday, and said everything so far will meet the SFI Specs. So now I can go forward with confidence. I will be running the smaller M&H's from before. IMG_0344.jpg IMG_0345.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2024
    brEad, Just Gary, Dean Lowe and 16 others like this.
  9. y'sguy
    Joined: Feb 25, 2008
    Posts: 704

    y'sguy
    Member
    from Tulsa, OK

    I was wondering if you were going to run 12 spokes. I'll sleep better tonight. haha.
     
    brEad likes this.
  10. wrenchbender
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 2,352

    wrenchbender
    Member

    Marty the spindles I have on the 40 ford front axle in my dragster have been turned down and modified for the 19” motorcycle wheels I use on it so don’t worry about doin that my car has pulled many wheelstands even a great big one at the meltdown years ago that rocky phillips photographer posted up on the internet years ago they have never bent or fractured or anything I inspect them along with the rest of the car quite frequently so my thoughts on machining the spindles is go for it
     
  11. voxnut
    Joined: Oct 30, 2008
    Posts: 257

    voxnut
    Member
    from sacramento

    I went with a power glide in my otherwise vintage styled dragster because I couldn't afford all the routine clutch/can recert stuff with the NHRA. For a car that MIGHT see 20 passes on a busy year and less than half of them on an NHRA sanctioned track, I just couldn't swing it. Doing high gear only launches with no trans brake, so I'll have to pretend it's a B&M Torquemaster until I hit publisher's clearinghouse...

    All the best with the dragster build! I'm subscribed to the thread.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  12. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,982

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I wish you luck with high gear starts with the Powerglide. With a big enough pump and nozzles, you could run some Nitro, to get the power at the hit of throttle, needed to get it off the line. I ran a couple high gear cars, with a clutch, but both were blown and ran in the 190's. Never knew how much power they made, but I would guess in the neighborhood of 900 HP. Glad to have you subscribed, and looking forward to seeing you at Toutle, and other venues. 2012-08-31 123144.jpg
     
    brEad, porkshop, Dean Lowe and 6 others like this.
  13. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,982

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Of the simple methods that I, along with my Brother Tom have devised to make things easier, especially when working alone, this is the one I treasure the most. When I was doing the cage on Jim Lindsay's Bonneville Roadster, the most difficult part is always coping and getting a good fit on the front hoop, with the angles and heights to maintain. Since his cage was 1-3/4", one size over the specified 1/5/8", I decided to bend a hoop out of exhaust tube, and make it fit, for a pattern, being thin it is easy to work with. When re-using the hoop for another application, that was shorter, we simply cut the ends off at 5", then removed a short section on each end, and held the 5" pieces on with hose camps, so we could rotate the ends to get a perfect fit at the merge. Well this time I made end pieces out of 1-5/8- .065 that slide inside the main hoop. It allows me to not only, rotate to fit, I can telescope the hoop up and down to vary the height. When the hoop is at the desired height and angle, I lightly tack the ends in place, and remove it to slide into the joint jigger against the side of the hole saw. I then check and record the angle with a digital level, to make fitting the real hoop a breeze. I tacked the temp on, and found I can move it back an inch, and still maintain the 4" from the front of the cage to the front of the helmet. IMG_0347.jpg IMG_0348.jpg IMG_0349.jpg IMG_0350.jpg IMG_0352.jpg
     
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  14. J. A. Miller
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 2,070

    J. A. Miller
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Central NY

    That is a great trick! Solves the problem of not having enough hands and eyes when you are working by yourself. Saves material too - very important at todays prices.
     
  15. Larry Anderson
    Joined: Jul 15, 2013
    Posts: 276

    Larry Anderson
    Member

    Dude, I’m not that far away if you need a dummy to hold something while you tack it and you know my work schedule. I wouldn’t even say anything if you shocked the crap out of me with the TIG welder
     
    brEad, raven, Just Gary and 2 others like this.
  16. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,982

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I know, I am just piddling around, finally got some antibiotic for this nasty cold, hope to be up to full speed by early next week.
     
    Blown Red Ram and chryslerfan55 like this.
  17. Johnny99
    Joined: Nov 5, 2006
    Posts: 1,083

    Johnny99
    Member

    Morning,
    Great tip! That compound miter is always a speed bump. Looking forward to seeing the car.
     
  18. Awesome build Marty! We can all learn a lot watching you build something.
     
    brEad, porkshop, Just Gary and 5 others like this.
  19. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,982

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Thanks Boys !
     
    porkshop and HemiDeuce like this.
  20. chriskopp
    Joined: Apr 21, 2014
    Posts: 8

    chriskopp
    Member

    “…I wouldn’t even say anything if you shocked the crap out of me..”

    @Marty Strode
    That’s funny
     
    chryslerfan55 and Blown Red Ram like this.
  21. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,982

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I got the spindles cleaned up, and the the notches someone had cut to clear brake hoses, welded up an slicked down. In able to machine the areas needed, I made a barrel to screw onto the spindle nut thread. It will give me the hole necessary to index the live center, to complete the process. In order to hold the spindle on the other end, I needed long jaws for the lathe. My old buddy Lonnie Gilbertson stopped by to have me bend some tubing for him, and offered to loan me the proper jaws, to machine the spindles, and some for holding the outside if the wheels. That way I can lightly sand and polish the wheel outer lips, in the lathe. If I can find the proper outer wheel bearings, I will only need to machine the flat area of the spindles, instead of machining them down, sweating on sleeves and turning them back to .750". The outer bearings in the wheels are Timken LM 12749, and have a bore of .863". I need the same bearing with a .750" bore. IMG_0357.jpg IMG_0356.jpg IMG_0354.jpg IMG_0355.jpg
     
    brEad, porkshop, Just Gary and 10 others like this.
  22. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,982

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Shock treatments, can be beneficial, maybe we should give that I try Larry!
     
  23. Terry Buffum
    Joined: Mar 20, 2008
    Posts: 305

    Terry Buffum
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Oregon

    I think the Timken number is LM 11949. We used a lot of them in Go Power wheels many years ago.
     
    1971BB427 and chryslerfan55 like this.
  24. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,982

    Marty Strode
    Member

    IMG_0361.jpg IMG_0358.jpg IMG_0359.jpg
    Thanks Terry, I thought if nothing else I would spin out a couple sleeves and Loctite them in the bearings I have, so I did, and they will hold the wheels on, until I get the LM 11949's.
     
  25. Larry Anderson
    Joined: Jul 15, 2013
    Posts: 276

    Larry Anderson
    Member

    I agree and you’ve seen my shoulder. My uncle used to do electro-acupuncture on race horses and is does do good things. Unless you were thinking electro therapy via “One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest” style…
     
    porkshop likes this.
  26. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,982

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I was thinking of using my Lincoln Tig 300/300, for a power supply, unless you prefer the Airco/Miller Goldstar.
     
    porkshop, chryslerfan55 and loudbang like this.
  27. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 4,335

    RodStRace
    Member

    Dr. Emilio Lizardo, I presume?
    el.gif
     
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  28. Larry Anderson
    Joined: Jul 15, 2013
    Posts: 276

    Larry Anderson
    Member

    You’re the doctor, doctor.
     
    porkshop and chryslerfan55 like this.
  29. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,982

    Marty Strode
    Member

    We got the transmission apart and the tail shaft is out getting shortened and re-splined, if my friend can do it, depending on the hardness. Meanwhile, I am looking to make some 6" Injector stacks, or shorten the 10" ones I have. Then thinnest 2-1/8" plain steel tube I can find is .049, the Hilborn ones are .035. I found some .035 steel, but it is galvanized. The thinner the metal, the easier the flares will be to make. The side shot shows the top of the green tape is 6", about even with the top of the mag. Also, the long aluminum tube shows close to what the profile of the body will be. IMG_0362.jpg IMG_0363.jpg IMG_0364.jpg
     
    brEad, porkshop, 1971BB427 and 10 others like this.

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