The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Do it Over, Apr 9, 2021.
Must say you made a top job of that panel seeeing what it was like to start with.
been done to death....looks smoother without...like it attached to the bumper...just my 2 cents
GOOD WORK--- THE EMS GUY
Getting there slowly. It would have been much faster and easier to use the EMS trunk floor but I'm enjoying the experience of welding up my own patch. I used the roof filler panel that I removed from the car as it was 18 ga. It looks kinda funky but it'll work and no one will see it.
A few more bracing plates to weld in, some triming and the patch will be welded in. Next I'll repair the bottom of the spare tire bracket, weld it in and bolt the patch down. Then starts the floor flanges and wheel well patches.
Suggestion ....you could use a panel flanger on the flatter areas of the upper body...ive had great luck with that ..unless your gonna butt weld it....
Good suggestion, I've flanged a lot of panels but I'm aiming to TIG butt weld this one. Time to force myself into improving my skills
Back at it after too long. Seems all that shrinking can really move a panel in a linear plane as well. That's my explanation for the 1/4" plus tapered gap I now have at the bottom of the cut. I fitted and refitted the panel nearly a hundred times and did notice the gap increasing as the panel got to the smooth stage. My solution will be to cut a wedge to fill the gap and weld it in once the other patch work is all done and the complete panel is ready to weld back in. I was tempted to cut it right down the middle and fill it there but figure that would be much harder to do as it would create more warping. All the cleco holes were drilled before any spot welds were drilled out or any cuts made to ensure the panel went back in place.
When you're done nobody will ever know, as long as you don't tell them! Ha ha.
Welding in a very thin sliver like that is really difficult. The filler piece can overheat and melt away and as that's happening the natural reaction, well my natural reaction, is to add more filler to try and catch it, which involves further heat and then, even if successful, results in large globs of weld requiring mucho attention before finishing, and, more crucially, the excess heat warps it all to hell and back, requiring yet more work. A solution to this, whilst sounding counter intuitive, is to cut the gap wider, to about an inch, and cut filler pieces to suit, which won't be troublesome like the thin sliver. Overall quicker, easier, and more likely to achieve a pleasing outcome.
Enjoying the ride, observing your progress!
I agree with Happydaze. However I've seen guys fill those kind of gaps with welding rod. How good of welder are you?
Depends on who you compare me to
Hit it to close the gap a little more, hit it hard on both sides and it'll be right to weld. JW
Impressive work & patience... Perseverance furthers.
Interesting and a little shocking to see that much gap open up from working the sheetmetal that much.
to fill the gap, find yourself a good solid dolly that will fit the contour of the body from inside.
With a good chisel end panel hammer ( not sharp like a chisel but shaped like a chisel with a flat or rounded edge) hit the panel ON DOLLY with a forward strike motion about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from the edge.
This will stretch the metal and at the same time, push / move it forward to close the gap.
Spread the load between the tail and the body and you will find a gap that size will close easy . Try not to strike on the edge as you dont want to make the panel to thin where you intend to butt weld it . Occasionally you might need to tap the edge but try not to beat on it ..
If you concentrate on small areas starting from the small gap, closing it and tacking it a safe distance from where it begins to widen, you will find that the gap will start to close of its own accord due to the localised heat in the small tacks , reducing the amount you will need to work it to close the widest part . Tap tap , tack, tap tap, tack, tap tap tak and so on, it will close easy without the need to bump in lots of heat and filler rod ..
You have the ability to do it having looked at what you have achieved with the damaged tail pan.. Great attitude to push yourself to improve your skills , With that mind set your all good .
What’s it look like if you release the clecos and fit the joint then practice tack the joint or tab and Cleco the joint?
I’m thinking the support structure of the tail panel could have been tweaked by the skin damage. You’ve corrected the damage on the skin but not correct the tweaks in the support structure yet . Just a thought
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