Projects Tommy R Attempts to Build a Hot Rod Model A

If I had seen this post earlier, I would have introduced myself last night, too... I was also standing on the porch listening to stories about blown-up hemi's.

Look forward to more updates, and the Austin debut!

 

Yeah, the dirty bastage!

The car definitely does not disappoint, Brent!

Well, the debut is still quite a ways away, but I can't wait!

 

Good looking start to a build, a motivator for a lot of us I'm sure. Subscribed!

 

Thanks, Chris!

Right now the only thing preventing a lot of progress is cash flow. But I did tear apart the 9" Trac-Lok and ordered a kit to rebuild it. Next on the list is to get the misc. front parts ordered: Posies super low front spring, perches, shackles, bushings, spring clamps, shock mounts, etc. The next big purchase after that will be a Pete & Jake's "drag duty" ladder bar kit since I plan on abusing this thing at the track. Once I get all this stuff I'll be ready to start welding the chassis together.

Lately, I've been doing a lot of thinking about "to pinch or not to pinch". Right now I'm leaning toward not pinching the frame. I would widen the cowl to get the right proportions. There's a lot of variables with pinching the frame and I'm not confident enough that I'll get it right. Spreading the cowl will be more sheetmetal work (to fill in the slices), but that's okay. I could use the practice.

 

By the way, if anyone in the Austin area has a frame jig (portable or not) that I could borrow or rent, please PM me. That would be a lot better than trying to rig up something temporary in my garage! I would be more than willing to compensate accordingly.

 

I have the frame jig, and I guess you're not going to need this spring pack I offered for the front, let me know ok .

 

You know I'm interested in that spring! No rush, though. You have fun this weekend!

 

Can't beat the look of a dropped original axle.Way to go Tommy!

 

Well, I figured if you're going to build a traditional vintage hot rod, it would be wise to use as many traditional and vintage parts as you can, right?

But ignore the late model rear axle and SBC!

 

Ha Ha!Same here,dropped '36 front,8 inch rear and SBF.

 

Have you thought about doing a horizontal pie cut on the cowl sheet metal and letting the lower bead lay on the top of the frame something like bass did the "Bubba Coupe"? That's what I'm thinkin' about but then I've got to rebuild the bottom of my cowl anyway.

 

Your doing a great job, keep the faith.

 

just subscribed....lots of cool stuff going on here!!! Please keep us posted

 

I saw that, but am still not quite sure what Bass did there. It looks like he made a better body mount, but I'm not sure what else.

Thanks, y'all. Much appreciated.

 

very interesting build!

Mario

 

Hey folks,

I'm in the process of rebuilding the 9" Trac Lok diff and I need some info. If anyone has any info. such as schematics, exploded views, or links to "how to" articles, please let me know. I want to make sure I set it up properly and very tight.

Thanks!

 

While searching around here, I found a link to a site with good rebuilding info. for a 9" and a 9" Trac Lok.
http://selectric.org/manuals/rearend/indexford.html

Anyway I got some pictures of the diff this weekend. I haven't fully assembled it 'cause I don't have my new ring gear bolts yet, but I did come across a question. Basically, on page 2 of the Trac Lok rebuild instruction (right here), it says to install shims of .050", but mine only measured .029". Later on in the procedure, they tell you to use a special tool to determine if you need to add or remove shims from the .050" to achieve the proper amount of preload. I assume the .029" shims worked for the old clutches/plates, but how can I determine if they'll work for the new ones?

Anyway, here's the pics of the process. If anyone sees something out of the ordinary, please speak up!

First, I installed the two shims that came out of the diff. They total .029" in thickness.


New clutch pack going in.


Clips going in.


Side gear washer.


Side gear.


The other half. I did notice some pitting on the spider gears, but it was very minimal and I've seen way worse. I haven't yet disassembled the pins to check for wear on them or the thrust washers.


Preload springs.


Looking close you can see two edges of the block are chamfered, the other are not.


I put the plate over the chamfered corners.


And here are the outer halves ready to be assembled. I did a test fit and it seems like it'll take a fair amount of force to fully compress the two halves....which I assume is the way it ought to be.

 

Got something in the mail today from Pete and Jake's. My Alliance membership just paid for itself. It's the drag duty setup. Probably overkill for my application, but it wasn't that much more money so why not...


Things have been slow lately, but some good things are about to happen really soon so hopefully I'll have some more updates to share over the next few weeks.

 

Continuing with baby steps, but this was an important one today. I sourced a frame table and am pretty stoked about it. Now I can start squaring up the chassis and making sparks!


Looks like the flat portion of the chassis rests on only two cross bars, but I suppose that's good enough?


By the way, I'll be at the Day of the Drags at Little River this weekend. If you're going, let me know. Would be great to put more faces with the screen names.

 

Man Tommy, wish I was more on the ball......I have a great frame table at my shop that is easily portable. It was my first welding project at school. It has seen many frames at this point.... anyway, glad you are on the right track!

 

No worries, man! But I do appreciate the thought. Fortunately, I don't have as much cash invested in this table as some might think so it wasn't TOO financially painful. Hey, you going to Little River this weekend? Would love to see you slammin' gears in that coupe!!

I could barely sleep last night trying to put together the gameplan for getting the chassis work done. I think first of all I need to wire wheel the rear axle and gut it so I can put it on the table and start setting up my wheelbase and crossmember locations.

But I've got a question about boxing the frame...

I figured I'll weld in the front and rear crossmembers before boxing it, but should I box the frame before installing the K-member and ladder bar mount? Also, what thickness do most of y'all use for boxing the frame? I assume .120" or 1/8" sheet would do the trick since that's the thickness of the chassis (I think). I'm planning to recess the boxing panels 1/2" inside the frame rails or is that not worth the extra labor? I figured it would be nice to clean up the underside when routing lines/hoses? But I'm obviously open to thoughts on this...

 

Did you ever get those spreader bar spacers so your frame width would be the right width? Seems the spacers were attached to stock rails but are required seperate for aftermarket rails. I didn't know they made 'em until they came shipped loose with my '32 rails. Your build is gettin' ahead of mine... Lookin' Good!!!

 

No, I sure haven't. I was wondering if I would need them since I may end up pinching the rails at the cowl. Maybe I could leave the front end a bit narrower? I hope to start mocking things up pretty seriously next week. I'll know more by then. Getting excited about the upcoming progress, though!

 

Good decission to get the frame table,Tommy.Makes it so much easier.When the frame's done,you can fit a removable top and have a good sized work bench.

 

Thanks, Mark. Yeah, I think it'll be really helpful!

 

i used 10 ga or .134 grade 50 just because it was available and i cut them my self on the laser. as for when to box them i think your on the right track, i boxed them after the front and rear crossmembers were burnt in.

what are your plans for the suspension? on my 32 truck im using a chassis engineering 4" drop and reverse eye spring. in the rear i welded the model a crossmember as high as it would go and with my stock t spring it sits level. im sure my rear spring is fatigued because i didnt have to spread it to fit in the 35/36 bones. the tires and rims also all match on all 4 corners.

hope this helps and keep up the progress!

 

Thanks for the info! So you installed the k-member, etc. after boxing the rails?

For the suspension I'm running a reversed eye A spring up front with a Deuce crossmember for another inch of drop. The rear suspension will use a '40 front spring and I'm not sure yet what kind of crossmember I'll use. Looking at Bass' setup, I may just need some rectangular tube with no arch at all. The suspension will be the ladder bars shown above, of course. And for what it's worth, I'm planning on running 6.00 and 7.50 16" tires.

Speaking of tires, I'm looking for used 6.00 and 7.50 tires for mock up if anyone has some to sell or unload. Tread and condition don't matter since they're only for mock up.

 

nice project, very cool start to a great hot rod

 

Thanks! I sure hope it turns out great! But with me being the one making the sparks and working the tape measure, there's no tellin'!

What are y'all's thoughts on k-members? Should I fab up my own, pick up a late '30s/early '40s unit and make it fit, or buy an aftermarket piece? Keep in mind budget is an issue here. Also, keep in mind my plans to run a SBC and a T-5 trans.

 

Nice build! Like that frame table too!