So when is the right time on a ground up build to test fire the engine? Should the body be mounted first? Any reasons for or against starting it on the frame? Thanks. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I start all mine mounted in the frame,with out the body,no problem. Easy to see any leaks, gives me a little push to finish it up! Good luck.
i've fired them many times with no body...but there are some things you do need. a radiator so you can run the engine long enough to see if it's ok. an exhaust system so you can hear any strange noises. oil pressure and temperature gauges. oil in the transmission and motor. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE THE TRANSMISSION IS IN PARK OR NEUTRAL. a few simple wires and you are running if the motor has a new camshaft/lifters in it you will want to be ready to run it long enough to break in the cam
I have done both ways. It's nice to know that they run and don't leak before you do the body, but sometimes you just want to get the body done. If your close fire it and know that it good and get moving on the body....
I started mine on the garage floor on a homemade stand made from a furniture dolly. All you need is gas and a battery. I even connected the radiator and used a house fan for cooling.
I guess I did it totally wrong,,the wagon was completely finished,painted,wired and upholstered. I had a few leaks but no major problem. HRP
If you are absolutely positive all of your work is 100% wait till the end but if you make mistakes like I do start it early and it will be easier to fix.
Thats why I have a run in stand. Easier to deal with problems... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Building motors has been one of my passions since I was a young boy. All of my builds have rebuilt engines, trannys, driveshafts and rearends so I put the frame on jack stands with radiator and temp ignition and fire it up. I set the idle at about 2500 and run for 30 minutes. Put it thru the gears then and check everthing out and run another 30 minutes. My engines break in perfectly and have never had a problem. Great way to check those leaks and other potential problems.
Do you have a new manual tranny? I read that you shouldnt run the motor with the tranny in neutral at first. It needs to be rotating for the first 15 minutes. Didnt hurt mine though so maybe its bs.
So far most have been automatics but I used to build high performance VW's and I did the same with them. My current build is a four speed overdrive and I will break it in the same way
I always fire and break in a motor before I install it. You get to see any leaks, the timing can be set and the lifters lashed after coming up to temperature without making a mess in a freshly painted engine compartment. Frank
I fired up the 235 that is in my 37 Chevy p/u in the frame with no body,stuck on the grille shell with the radiator and even had the charging system wired up.
I try to start early on so if there is issue i can handle it earlier on and not around paint. But I wouldn't mess around running it, either start the cam break in process or kill it as soon as you figured out what you need to figure out. You can do the cam break in in stages just make sure you run it at he right rpm till her time is in. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Maybe it 's my engine skills but have had one to many problem engines after the car was painted and a PIA to pull and engine from finished car. 1. Always run them in the frame with limited body installed. 2. Run them a second time after all the wiring and fit up is done, just BEFORE paint. Good luck!
On my next build I will test drive a summer before it gets final paint,more then the motor needs to be tested.
Since most of my motors are from donor cars they already have a bunch of miles on them I wait till the build is finished before firing them...
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