What is wrong with the original frame. What are you trying to do with it get it low or just wanting to make a ton of work for yourself?
This is more like thinking that a frame swap is easier than making motor mounts, etc etc. This thread might get closed, as there seems to be a more strict enforcement of what the board should be.
depending on how your original frame and your main goal are the two main questions. in my case the original frame was rusted out as well as all the body mounts and i wanted to lay frame so i went with the s10 swap. i think it was the better option for me because i would have had to repair then modify the original frame and i got an s10 frame already set up for air bags and it was the correct wheel base
If that frame is front steer like my 54, then the steering column is a big issue for engine clearance. I'm too lazy to do anything like a frame swap so I'm just freshening up the original stuff on mine. I figure I can shoehorn a 302 into it and plan to use the Speedway front cross member.
just thinking of long run and parts availability the motor mounts seem like cake to me never done them but done plenty of welding probly start on them tomorrow try to get some progress pics on tonight.
I am not sure about wheel base is it the same ? that might be another hurdle you are looking at I am not trying to change your mind just would rather help you make sure everything is going to work before jumping headlong into this project get discouraged and quitting
A couple of thoughts here. First, the original frame and body were designed to bolt together and you don't have to fabricate body mounts and don't have as many issues with getting body panels to fit and line up right. Like most older trucks, you're dealing with a straight ladder type frame that lends itself to just about any suspension and drive train you want to hang on it. If you want independent front suspension, one possibility is what's under an '80s Ford Aerostar van, whole thing unbolts from the donor vehicle, likewise '60-'66 Chevy/GMC pickup front end, but I'd look at the Aerostar as it comes with rack and pinion and disc brakes, parts are readily available, and any tire store can align it. Chassis Engineering has mounts to put nearly any engine/trans into nearly any chassis. I think drivetrain and suspension upgrades to the frame you have will be easier in the long run that a full chassis swap. Also, I don't remember if old Internationals have the serial number on the cab or if it's only on the frame. If it's only on the frame, a chassis swap might make title/registration issues more complicated.
I kinda figured on keeping the good old frame but wondered if anyone could convince me otherwise thanks for the input all and hope to be of some assistance to others someday got some pics in album finally.
Don't do it. It will look like an elephant on a roller scate. S-10 is too skinny for that truck. The frame can handle most motors you want to put in it. If you want IFS try the Jag thing or maybe even the front crossmember off a mid 70's - 80's Chevy truck. They unbolt and I think the cornbinder is wide enough.
The S-10 track width is way to narrow for a L-R-S series International, a Dodge dakota would be a much better fit. A L-R-S series IH are in the 60-61" width stock a S-10 is in the 54" range i beleave a Dakota is in the 60-61" width. I'am clipping my 1955 S-100 with a 1977 Transam clip and a 1967-1972 Ford F-100 rear 9" flip o the stock S series springs. I have the rearend under it and with a 11.5 tire on 15x8 steel wheels, i have about 1/2"-9/16" between the fender and tire, It fits really nice. If i wasen't given the transam clip i would go with a dakota chassis.
S-10 frames are junk . Keep stock frame , add or clip in a modern suspension on front, maybe a 70-81 camaro or and A body . Measure up 73-87 full size chevy truck, the front unbolts and may lend it self to a simple bolt in . Rear is leaf, so anything that is proper width and matches new front bolt pattern can be put in with a set of $18 spring pads
These boys are steering you right. You might consider a Fatman front-end, they probally have one made to fit. Just fit it up and weld.
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