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To Lead or Weld

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cutthroat corps, Dec 31, 2010.

  1. cutthroat corps
    Joined: Apr 24, 2009
    Posts: 43

    cutthroat corps

    I am wanting to fill the seam on the hood of my 52 Chevy and a couple of other areas. I know how to lead and weld but I have never done a line this long before. What would be the best method?

  2. I'd weld it then use lead to fill the imperfections.
  3. cutthroat corps
    Joined: Apr 24, 2009
    Posts: 43

    cutthroat corps

    Thank you porknbeaner
  4. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222


    The problem with lead is the acid. If there is just a small place that traps acid, the lead will bubble over time. I have pics of my factory paint 69 Dart seams, and EVERY factory lead seam on that car had bubbled though these decades. I dug out the lead and found rust from trapped acid...even up high on the cowl and rear deck panel.

    I would weld and use modern methods.

  5. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717


    ^^^what he said^^^ good luck
  6. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,381


    Many years ago when I was 20 I covered the seam of my 53 Chevy hood with a strip of fiberglass cloth followed by bondo. No distortion and it worked out just fine and never cracked or separated. Why weld it and risk warping.
  7. randy
    Joined: Nov 15, 2003
    Posts: 679


    I'd do like 1" welds every 6"+ or so. Jump around when welding to limit distortion. Lead the whole seam after that. Limited welding distortion. Use a propane torch to do your leading so you can keep the heat down.

    Have fun.

  8. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352


    i did mine with welding it a couple tacks at a time and letting it cool. not too fast or you will easily warp your hood
  9. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    from so cal


    What kinda welding have you done, and on what?

    You could go the squirt gun (mig) route stiching many well spaced tacks together until you have a complete bead or gas weld it with a small tip & some filler rod. Which one of these methods you choose will depend on your skill level as a welder, both will work equally well. You may forgo the welding and choose to just lead up the seam, this too would work. Solder (lead) is pretty flexable and will last many years "if" done properly. If you go the lead route, be sure to get plenty of solder on the seam area the first time around. Having to reheat a leaded area to add additional lead to a small low spot may be very tough owing to the additional heat necessary to overcome the change in the alloy the solder undergoes once reheated. Damage from heat distortion, in low crowned areas, is very possibly at this point.
    If your skill level is on the rise, you may wanna hammerweld the two halves of the hood together once butt welded. Never any worry about fillers or high build primers cracking with this method. I would never use plastic filler or glassfibre on a hood panel in a low crowned or high heat cycle area of a panel.

    " Life ain't no Disney movie "
  10. kwmpa
    Joined: Mar 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,241

    Member Emeritus
    from Pa

    i was alwas taught to weld...lead,,,then dura-glass over the lead to lock it down. if you lay down dura glass over the lead it prevents oxygen9rust is oxidation no oxygen means no rust) from getting into any spots where acid might have been trapped...

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