Hello All, been quite a while since my last visit and post. Life has taken a few turns and other projects became more pressing. But now ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Some of you may remember that I have a real solid original steel 27 RPU body/bed and nasty original frame. Original plan was to build it up using a SBF 302 and C4 or T5, but better sense has prevailed and I have been looking for a good Flathead setup and want to build up a deuce style frame. I have a lead on an 8BA that appears to be complete including the intake/carb, water pumps, starter, dizzy, exhaust and trans. Only thing not shown in the pics I've seen is the dizzy cap. Best I can tell it is a 49 and am told it turns over. I am trying to arrange a hands on inspection ASAP in hopes of being in good condition. This is where I need help. I've never owned or worked on a flathead motor and am unsure as what to look for or pay special attention to at the inspection. At about $600 bucks it seems like a reasonable deal. Watcha Think ......................? P.S. Any info on where to find the frame rails I need would be great as I haven't seen anything in my area. Thx .........
It's all a gamble when it comes to buying any flatty. It's not worth more than $100 if you can't first remove the heads and pan to inspect it for cracks. Go to www.fordbarn.com and read all about it. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152521&highlight=inspect+flathead+engine+block and http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59232&highlight=inspect+flathead+block It seems common that finding a good flathead block without cracks is getting more difficult. Plus you want to make sure there's enough metal left in the cylinders to bore them out for a rebuild. Don't be afraid to pass on a questionable block. As you know, building a flatty today is not cheap so don't start out with a boat anchor. You might want to consider something like this, already done. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200736&highlight=engine+sale
My point of view as a engine machinist.I have done a few for myself and for customers. It's a rear crap shoot buying a assembled flat head ford. I have seen them run well no suspicious noises and upon disassembly found cracks down in the pan rails,valve seat area and,mains to mention a few. Sometimes the worse looking blocks have been the best. 600.00 is to me on the hi side for a " it runs good" without a tear down. Some people have luck,slap it in the car and motor down the road for thousands of miles. If the owner wants to stand by his word of a "good" motor,ask him if you find the block unable to be used after tear down he will refund your money. Then it is a viable risk. Build a 276, you won't regret it. Good luck, Gary
How can you tell its a 1949 8BA just by the photos and not a 50-53? Not trying to be a jerk, just curious. The 49 had wide belts in a pass. car and went to narrow belts in 1950 and the water pump mounts were angled. Maybe that's what your looking at? But trucks also had wide belts but with flat water pump mounts, and it is rumored that not all trucks got 8RT's, that some got 8BA's. Bill
If you remove the intake manifold there may be a series of numbers and letters stamped on the block that designate the date of the block. Look here: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25338&highlight=engine+block+date+code Here's some water pump comparisons that may help. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137768&highlight=mercury+block+stamping+intake Plus, believe some 8BA blocks had all hardened valve seats. Later 8BA's did not. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25301&highlight=hardened+valve+seats
Bill, I wasn't sure it was a 49 but thought so based on the pics and discussion with the PO. 19Fordy, Thanks for that link as it help figure it out, turns out to be Mar 31 1950.
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