So I put 3” blocks in the rear of my 53 ford Customline Tudor. And the tires are too far up in the wheel well so they aren’t able to come off the rear because they hit the inside of the quarter panel. There must be a way around this besides removing the blocks. What do you guys do? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Oh. And that is with the jack stands on the frame. Not on the rear Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
That was my worry. When I get a flat I will need a tow. But now I know. Haha. Thanks again Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Disconnect the shocks first, then jack it up just enough to remove the wheels. If you jack first and then unbolt the shocks the rear axle is gonna drop hard, and far if you have it jacked up too high. Pay attention that you don't rip the rear brake hose.
First jack the frame of the car up as far as you can. Leave that jack in place or use a jack stand. This raises the body. Then place a jack on the axle housing and raise it up until the wheel clears the floor. This raises the suspension.
a strong ratchet strap around the radius of the tire might help too, squish it even smaller. If it's a solid rear, you can "flex" the rear, jack up one side of the axle (with the car held up by the frame) and the opposite side spring will droop even lower, and put the wheel at an angle.
And have a jack under the rear please! Don't let it just hang under weight, or things might not go so well........
Probably not what you want to do, but I cut the wheel opening on the fenders big enough I can take the tire off once its off the ground. You can get away with that if it looks like an old race car. Gene
I use a floor jack on the axle just behind the wheel to barely get the tire off the ground. I then use the bumper jack, the one behind the spare tire ( u have it right), and jack up the car as you normally once did and remove the wheel/tire. Not advisable if you've removed your bumper guards. If you've added any width to your stock size wheel it can become a pain. Also removing the shocks "can" cause the shackles to reverse so you need to watch that coming back down.
I had same problem Went narrower tire and wheel, valve stem removed to deflate. I keep a dewalt inflator when I travel to reinflate tire Sent from my SM-G935R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I’m sure you thought of this already, but make sure you try this at home first so you know it works for you. Experimenting on a highway shoulder is no fun!
“Or use a jack stand” Great advice,,, like they are optional, Right? I guess you can’t expect much more from guys that build stuff that you can’t get the wheels off of.
I used to work in a tire store. We went in from the side and jacked up under the frame right in front of the axle. Jack just clearing the front of the tire. That lets the side you are jacking on drop out of the wheelwell and it compresses the other side so the tire goes deeper into the wheelwell and the axle gets more angle left to right. That pulls the raised tire closer to the frame and creates more room between the tire and inside of the wheelwell. Usually able to get them off doing that unless it's REALLY bad. Only takes one jack that way. SPark
...on them old Fords you can stick a crowbar in the shackle and flip it so it hangs down, that mite give some extra clearance,..kinda like suggested above.
Thanks guys. Now I have a bunch of things to try on both tires. See what works best and is the easiest to do. Especially if I get a flat on the side of the highway. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Same problem encountered with the '55 Chevy. No wonder so many quarters were cut. I couldn't go that route, so I guess I will continue to go with the two jacks route.
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