So, before I order...my tires say 33.0 but measure 31". Should I order 31's or 33's? Can someone verify that their 33's actually measure close to 31" or are they actually 33"? my circumference 1s 101"
It all depends on the manufacturer, some tires are more square at the sidewall, others more round, Hoosier measures a little under, M/T measures different again, rim width comes into play too. I measured some Hoosier quick time pros at my buddy's chassis shop.
The numbers are just for reference. I suspect some companies round them up, 33 actually is 32.5, while others round down, 33 would be a 33.5.
So, its boiling down to these are the 31x18.5. Now my question is the magnesium rims...can I use a valve stem and run them tubeless or do I need a tube? I'm hoping the insides and beads are as clean as the outsides.
Glyptol will help if you're going tubeless. To seal the inside of the wheel. As long as the tires are rated that way.
Well that, but for porosity issues, magnesium wheels from the 'day have been known for it. They'll hold air better.
Become a alliance member go to Coker tire find some pro track or M/T sportsman tires get the discount for being a member done.
looks like the protracs that are comparable to original are $644 each...do you know what the discount is for members, and I'm still unsure if I should run a tube ($117 each)???
I'd run a tube with magnesium wheels, they tend to leak down if you don't have a tube. Also make sure your rear brakes are good, and don't drive like a sportscar and no front brakes will be fine. just don't try to put front brakes on those wheels, it ruins the look. No front brakes Model T club, NW Missouri chapter president.
thanks! I won’t mess with the front rims, I get it. I’m tore between keeping it original with bias ply or trying radials? What do you run, and thoughts? Yours looks as low as mine. Hot Roding is a new hobby for me. So much I don’t know...this site has been very helpful, thanks to all for the input!
So, you have heard from the period correct guys, and what they think you should do with your car. Haven't much heard what you want, other then you don't want a trailer queen, which is a good plan in my opinion. So the hard reality is how much and how far you intend to drive it will have a big influence on how you want to move forward from here. For an occasional weekend trip to the ice cream store or a parking lot cruise in, the spindle mount front tires with no brakes, the huge bias ply rear tires on real magnesium wheels, the blower with a well built go fast motor would probably be a really fun short trip, occasional driver. If you intend on doing longer road trips, or maybe a bit of street romping, you may want to change a few things. The lack of front brakes in addition to the huge bias ply rear tires will make for pretty poor braking for anything more then an occasional short trip ride. Front brakes usually do 80-90% of the vehicle stopping. Then the big tall, wide bias ply rear tires will tend to skid (lock up) more then actually slow the car down. Locked up rear tires is not a fun experience at all, and when its a surprise, its usually just before a disaster happens. When the rear tires loose traction and start sliding, you loose all control, and with no front brakes, you have no braking either. The car is already light (I suspect) and the big rear tires will reduce the traction on each square inch of actual tire contact with the road surface. Add a little water and it may not stop at all. The radial rear tires would help the traction of the rear tires some, but how much would still be in question. If I was driving it, those cool spindle mount front wheels would be replaced with something that can have functioning disc brakes behind the wheels, and the car would have radial tires on all 4 corners. You get to pick how you do your car.
Boy, according to /\/\/\ that guy, I should be dead I guess. Rear tires are gonna be hard, there's not many 'good looking' tires for them. I'd prefer a set of bias plies personally for the looks, and I've used both radials and bias plies without noticing to much difference.
Thanks for taking the time to share. It's certainly not going to be used for long trips! We figured that out pretty quickly. Shes not a trailer queen but certainly a fair-weather ride for sure. Leaning towards leaving it as original as possible. So, going to keep the front spindle look but will probably go with the radials in the back (and front). I'm getting that they may perform a little better than B/P and should last longer. My next concern is finding someone that can change out the tires without damaging the Mag rims...
look for a motorcycle shop, most automotive shops will be rough on them Motorcycle shops are used to lightweight semi fragile wheels. I'd suggest looking at "Coker Tire Michelin X Radial Tire" in 125R15 size for the front. they are a radial that has a more square edge like a bias ply. I've personally had good luck with the Firestone F560 (125 or 135 size) tires too. Usually if the tires are soft enough I just dismount/mount them myself.
I was looking at their 135sr15zx, that's what's on there now. Instead of tubes what about painting glyptal on the inside? cant seem to find the F560 at coker
135's are good. too. I've never painted anything on mag, seems like nothing adheres correctly. you'll also have to see if your wheels are drilled with a flat spot for valve stems, the set on my car doesn't have a flat spot and wouldn't seal even if you wanted to run tubeless.
Yeah, I heard one guy clear powdered coated his polished mags and they still greyed out over time...so I read. Apparently the glyptal is an alkaloid coating that sticks and seals(?). Yes, no way for a tubeless valve stem on the front, its in the corner of the drop center. Rears, maybe do able.
Dude. You have some seriously rare wheels there. They are part of what ''makes'' that car. Radial tires have NO business on those wheels, much less the car in general. If you want to play it safe, get something with a roof, full braking system and fenders to cover the radial tires. Please sell those wheels to someone who appreciates them, if you don't think they're special. You could probably bank roll a new set of flat spoke Cragars and Radial T/A's with the money.
Those front wheels are perfect for a '71/72 Funny/ /FA Comp drag build or this bucket, don't mess with them. We have plenty of high mileage buckets down under, aussies forego 'the look' for driveability. You will not find a 2 wheel brake bucket down under. Our laws ban it anyway.
Like other have said Rears are Super Rare!!! Lite car (1200-1600pds)with that size rear tire you will have No problem with Braking Just to much brake, & you dont want to get to bouncing.
I Have only been an enthusiast and bucket owner for 5 months. So it’s true, ignorance is bliss. I knew the rims were cool, couldn’t find any markings on the exterior of the rims so I don’t even know what brand the rears are...but I’m keeping them and will most likely go with B/P and tubes. Coker recommended Pro trac speed pro 376/60-15, but their specs say it’s for 10-12” wide rims. Mine are 15” so not sure how that will work and look.
Glyptol only goes inside the rim where you never see it. The beautiful grey color is a badge of honor. Polish them if you like, it won't last. NEVER let water touch them.
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