Tips on bodywork....

I was just wondering if I didn't know any tips on doing bodywork, Today I pulled out ny 12'' spackling knife to do my trunk on my 29 ,I also figured this thread might help out other people doing body work.12'' spackling knife for doors and large areas.If you have any other tips post away..........

 

I hope you are meaning for large VERY THIN skim coats and not for just gooping it on.
Tip#2 of this thread: The less putty the better.

 

Always skim the whole panel and sand in between coats.....................Should of said that;Less mud the better

 

And, I'd suggest a little 110V wire feed wlder to replace metal, so you don't just cover up stuff that wil rot out in a few years:
)

 

Oh, for tuips on smoothing, get abender board, it'll contour somewhat to waht you have...looks like a like, flexible thing tht old the paper and allows you to make a good run on the area.

 

Ive also used paint sticks and self stick 80 da paper to make sanding block Wrap the paper around the stick .

 

Another tip i've found to be helpful and time saving...
IF you are using filler, be it just a spot or a full panel, spread it evenly and flat. It makes blocking it out so much easier, and quicker if you are not knocking down a ton of high spots first.
It also helps your paper last a bit longer as well just because you will not be clogging it up with one heavy area first.

I use the paint sticks too. They work great.

Tony

 

Never use that red scratch filling putty that comes in the tube. Nothin sticks to that shit...

 

practice hammer and dollying your dents out on an old fender. Like my teachers said ask a body shop if they have any you could get that where being thrown out. Also for curves when block sanding go one direction then back the other, and use guide coat often.

 

Don't use "Bondo" brand from wal-mart.

 

keep an old sheet of sand paper handy to hit the skim off of freshly cured bondo, that way you dont waste a bunch of new ones.

bondo will always leave a skim that cloggs the 1st pass with the paper, so i just use the same one over and over



skull

 

Use premium grade products, filler, primers, high builds etc. They usually provide years of service and looks.

 

Use grill block bricks to knock down the first coat of filler. It's also called "fart block", because it smells like rotten eggs once you run it accross something.

The great thing about this stuff is it will conform immediately to the shape of the panel, and it's very porous, so it won't clog.

It will make quick work of high spots, and it is not a precise method, so I only suggest it for knocking that tuff top layer of filler down to a workable surface.

It will save you a ton in sandpaper, alone!

 

Don't mix on cardboard, don't stir, make sure the area is clean of any dust, don't use too much hardener, try to get your whole area without mixing another part of filler, if you are new to bodywork use a hand block (the bigger the better), sand so that the scratches make an x,keep the block flat. Also remember to clean out any pinholes in your filler before applying putty, and to put a good amount of pressure on your first coat of putty in order to fill any scratches or pinholes left in the filler. I have worked with some people that put a little thinner in the filler in order to make it easier to apply as well as easier to sand. I do not know if this weakens it but they never seemed to have any problems. You can sand filler while it is tacky, but it is good to allow the putty to cure.