Does anyone have tips and or tricks in brake line routing? Pictures would be a plus. I am going to start the process soon and was thinking of how to do the job simple and clean. I am working on a model A and I am using a stock frame boxed if that makes any difference. Thanks for any responces!
i just did my brothers 31 dodge truck... 4 wheel disc brake, resid valves, wilwood proportioning valv.. etc... i bought the new style copper colored brake line. its a little more pricey but it is very easy to bend correctly and stays straight when you un roll it.. i used some rubber coated glavanized clamps and self taping screws to hole it to the frame every 18 inches, however he uses a box frame. it come out super nice. he will never have brake troubles from lines with holes rubbed in them or rusted out.. aasside from using stainless, this is the best stuff you can use.. stainless is very hard to work with in my opinion. i like this soft line with my small hand bender. worked well.
Get some good benders and do some pratice bends so you can figure where to start the bends and draw out diagram so you have a plan. And dont forget to put the fitting on the line before you flare the end.
Thanks for the replys. I have some good tools to work with and just plan on laying out a plan before starting. I know that the residual valves go close to the master cylinder but, does the proportion valve go after the residual or before?
use pre-flared lines if you can , cuts down on double flares and possible leaks. you can mount the tees, residual valves, etc in places where you can take advantage of them
put the resid valves after the proportioning valve... i like to hand cut and flare all my line so that they are perfect length.. and the pre made lines are much harder material..
when you run the lines don't let the lines run under the frame. Run them on the side of the frame. try to keep the lines on the rear side of the crossmembers not the front side. I also have been thinking about this as I will be running lines on a "A" frame also. how will you run the rear lines? Ford had a rubber hose at the mounting point of the rear wishbones and steel lines running down each bone to each wheel. I was thinking about running a steel line to the rear crossmember-rubber hose to axle housing-steel lines to each wheel mounted to the axle housing
I plan on using pre-flared as much as possible. The double flare can be a pain sometimes. I have also heard that not to compress the last part of the flare fully to help prevent leaks.
I will run them down the main frame. My X -member might catch them coming out of the cylinder to where they join the main frame is my plan but, I may change that before I start plumbing. I am also planning to use braided lines on the rear from the frame or crossmember to the rear housing. I will post pics when I get started. Thats a good tip on the wire Mike.
Just did my coupe. I bought some pre made sizes from 12" to 48". Get a decent tube bender and start from master cylinder. I ran from master cyl to driver side frame, along the frame is a good place for proportion valves cause u can bolt em down. Rear the goes (depending on rear end set up) to rear crossmember or top of wishbones. To a hard mount then to a rubber hose for flex. Then a T fitting to each rear brake cylinder. Front: from master to front crossmember, i ran mine under the frame to hide it, T fitting to thru frame to rubber hose on drivers side. and the passenger side ran under the front crossmember to thru frame to rubber hose. I had to make a couple custom lines myself by cuttin down my premade lines. So it may help to have a nice double flaring tool. Take your time flaring them, I'm not pro at it and had to redo a couple times over. Snug em tight and good luck
I just did new lines in 2 OT dailies I bought a roll of tubing from NAPA and to straighten it I drilled a 2x4 the wide way just one size bigger than my brake line. getting the first few inches pushed through the 2x4 was a bit of work but after that I just pulled as much tube as I needed through it and it straightened right out nicely. I just clamped the 2x in my bench vise. I have Snap On benders now but have made benders from a piece of hard wood by using a hole saw the dia. I wanted I would nock out the drilled plug from in the saw mount it to a bolt and chuck it in a drill or my drill press then just spun it up and used a rat tail file to cut the groove for the brake line. Once the groove was made I chucked the bolt into my vise and bent the line around it by hand. You could also screw the "pulley you just made to a board and by clamping a scrap of wood up against the tube sandwiching it between the block and pulley do a good tight bend. I agree the loose tubing bends and flares easier than straight sticks so if I can't use a pre made length to do what I want without adding loops to use up line or cutting/flaring I go with the coils of line 25 feet of line cost me I think it was 20$ NAPA sells all the fittings also.
I really like the Eastwood double flare tool we have in the shop, whatever it cost was well worth it. Bob
get a few good benders of different kinds, youll find they work for different bends better than others. Also, get a good flare tool and practice with it (oil always helps). Lastly, get SEVERAL extra pieces more than you think youll need. Just when you have a line bent up and ready, one bend from done, youll kink it. I promise!
understand bend radius and you will be able to crank out some nice lines. also file the lines after cutting and before flaring to ensure you get a good flare.
Make sure, really make sure, that you put the nut on the line before you do that flare. A drop of oil under the nut on the outside of the flare before you tighten it to the fitting the first time will prevent the line twisting, and allow a better seat. Use the special line wrenches on your nuts. Sometimes you need to loosen a nut once and tighten it again to get a good seal. At least I do.
If u can afford it, the hydraulic flare tool is pretty slick. I think it's made by mastercool but sold under other brands
1. Save old brake lines and use them or a coat hanger as templates before bending final parts. 2. When double flaring brake lines, do NOT force the flare as tight as you can. Leave the flare "open" so it can conform to the actual fitting. Lot less leaks that way.
I did my '30. Used straight lines from parts store. Rear of master cyl. goes to front brakes. Front cyl goes to rears. I used a drill thru the frame fitting for front so you can then attach the lines to the front (discs) in my case. Very neat and clean. Bent the brake line behind the front cross member as spring needs to clear inside. Taped rails for line hold down clamps. 9" rear taped for tee and used original hole for vent (clearance issues). I ran front and rear residual valves somewhat close to MC and proportioning valve to rear. Hope this helps. Try to measure and figure what brake line sticks you will need and then how that will all fit together. I ran a piece of teflon around all fittings. No leaks.
This is the most useful tip I ever found ... Take a short piece of tube and put a line on it with a sharpie. Then put it in your bender with the mark aligned with the 0 degree mark and make a 90 degree bend. This is your 'master bend' and you can use it to work out where to start the real bends when you are laying out your lines. Just hold it against the brake line, with the practice bend where you want the real bend to be and transfer the sharpie line to the brake line. Then put the brake line in the bender with the sharpie line at the 0 degree mark and when you bend the line it will be in the right place.
This is excellent advise. It will save you time and unnecessary wasting of incorrectly bent brake line. I actually enjoy running brake lines after being shown this little trick!!!! Don't forget to put the nut on before bending...
Its been said, but I repeat, get under the car with some stiff wire, I use chain link fence wire, the stuff that goes along the base of the fence, comes in big rolls cheap. Make your bends with the wire, then copy those with your bender, take your time, its supposed to be fun.
SimoneSez beat me to it... I wire them together when finished and keep them in the drawer with my tubing tools. Smokey
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