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Projects Timm builds a model A

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tim, Mar 8, 2016.

  1. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    It’s really gummy but once it lets go it comes off in large sections.

    not like a flake but it kinda sludges off together.

    it’s got one ding with a slice from what appears to be a fan letting lose, one funky louver that is pushing the hood side around but that’s an easy fix as well. Looks like the right side hood too had a little oil canning. I bet they ran this sucker really hard shooting oil out of it until it blew up.

    I’m thinking once it’s clean and I can see what that damage looks like I can make a plan for fixing it. It feels like it has been heat shrunk, it’s not dented as much as the crown is missing in that spot.Adventure at every turn lol
     
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  2. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    Hung a new light in the shop and holy cow I can see what I’m messing with! A79E87C6-2876-4B08-96EA-483AAEEC6471.jpeg while I was cleaning up a bit i took a photo of the. Ebrake hardware and latches I got along with the hood the other night F1C293EB-7058-41A8-BC8A-A3D19ECE7B9E.jpeg
     
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  3. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Don't forget to look at the hood as four pieces that attach with two long skinny rods. Possibly for cleanin and also for swapping in better pieces,
     
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  4. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    Yeah I’ll end up taking it apart to scrape
    Out the funk eventually. For now I’ll leave it together. I just want it “clean” enough that I can touch it with bare hands with out having to scrub them afterwards. Like I said, it’s pretty gross.

    But on a hood note I did get it “clean” enough to throw in the back of my car, hoping
    Tomorrow it takes a trip to the quarter car wash.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2020
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  5. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    40 minutes with an incredibly hot pressure washer blasting soap at it and other than one spot I seemed to have missed it’s clean enough to bring inside.

    looks like it was grease/oil then mint paint, then red oxide primer. Lots of bar metal showing threw on the bottom of the hood top.

    My thinking is from the heat shrink over the intake/ exhaust side, the oil and the hole from maybe a fan coming lose is that they ran this thing up til it popped on purpose . D4C2EF65-59C9-4507-B92E-3B121BA86912.jpeg 92DFA84B-09A8-48DD-B1B1-2EC9B05AF460.jpeg 0DCC0EEB-397F-4DDD-9B4F-B7A4272D386D.jpeg 64E7EB78-1DA4-4438-A9ED-B1E2C6621406.jpeg 63A714D4-09F6-426B-B633-7508C4F5B0F3.jpeg 9318B04A-4344-42B1-B008-F6DB3DD7FF56.jpeg C4825AD4-D0B7-4974-94AE-31CFD44C6EA5.jpeg Noticed the very front and back have some rivets holding the hood to the hinge. Thinking this was a repair at some point. Don’t think my others are like this?
     
  6. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    You are getting closer. That is snow tough stuff. I wish my paint would stick that well.
     
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  7. Crazy it's been so hard to clean. That musta been some kinda engine mess to get all that sprayed and gunked on there!
     
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  8. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    It’s like tar man. It’s likely layers of engine oil and dust mixed with heat and time
     
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  9. Easy off and a little soak time in the sun. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection.
     
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  10. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Already got it clean but I’ll keep that in mind. There’s no way I don’t get ahold of something that gross again. It’s bound to happen
     
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  11. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    Nothing new to report but have been thinking about hoods.

    thinking I’ll pull the side hinge pins out of one of my rougher hoods and see what this thing looks like with just a hood top.

    also talked to a good friend about the possibility of running A belt drive paxton style super charger on the passenger side at some point and how to cool it.

    thought a scoop in the hood side like this could be cool 7F6248DC-6B1E-4A47-9061-4F89025C847B.jpeg 633DD91C-7D39-4D26-867A-AE9051D114F7.jpeg had also thought about just adding some forward facing stock louvers ahead of the stock set.

    either way thought this could be cool and maybe even make it out of part of a headlight bucket pretty easy.

    finished up my project on the 46’ ( I think, still need to run it) so I’ll be back on the header now. I can’t wait to see the intake and exhaust threw the hood side louvers!
     
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  12. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    A problem we had stuffing the McCulloch under the hood of my son's Studebaker was finding a place for a cool air intake. Starting with hot air from under the hood isn't the best. You don't want it sucking in rein/snow/ dirt either from a wheel well or under the car. I'd sure like to see what a supercharger would do on one of our fours. More belts and pulleys. :eek:
     
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  13. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    I think I’ve already got enough grooves in the crank pulley to do it and a stand alone tension pulley that was previously on it.

    I figured I would point the intake back towards the firewall. The intake and exhaust is all on the other side of the engine so it’s free and clear.

    heat wise, it would be pretty dang close to the hood louvers so short of Leaving the hood side off I don’t know how much cooler it’s going to get. I wonder if a taller profile “hotrod” style louver like @Tuck is making with the round clam shell dies would let more air out than the normal stock louvers?

    probably not but it’s something to think about I suppose.

    You know, I bet I could run a cold air intake down towards the starter? Put a splash shield on it to keep it clean and dry? But then you run into road/ surface heat.

    I think keeping it more or less next to the valve cover and as far back as you could get it is your best bet.
     
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  14. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    Wait! You could use a flat air filter and mount it off the radiator stay rods and put forward facing louvers on the hood. Like an top mounted Intercooler on a wrx

    kind of a packaging mess though
     
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  15. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    With a good radiator there should be no heating issues on this engine. Likely the charge blown through the carb won't be much hotter than the air drawn through the carb mounted so near the exhaust manifold. It would probably work fine just drawing from the passenger side. We did that on the Stude with no louvers in a crowded engine bay. I just think cooler air would have better for us. Belt tension is a big deal. It takes a lot to spin these things.
     
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  16. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    I’ll see if I can scroll back and find a photo of the weird governor thing that was bolted to this originally. I wonder how much pulley wrap it had.
     
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  17. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    Not the best, but the first photos I found. You can see the added pulley on the passenger side and the unit on the drivers side up high D6DC5D83-8836-4A7D-A8E1-AE3C79342A35.jpeg D01CBACD-6099-4FFD-9963-C9961F431884.jpeg
     
  18. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,485

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    How do you dispose of the citric acid?
     
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  19. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    It’s food grade so seems fine to dump on the weeds or whatever. I typically get the sludge and remnants out and put it in the trash and then dump it on some weeds... which it does nothing to lol.

    looks back at the engine photos it dawns on me that I could swap the stuff side for side. Put the tension pulley on the drivers side and the blower on the passenger side and get good tension and belt wrap?
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2020
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  20. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    The old McCulloch had one big belt 3/4(?). The SP pulley was variable width and had an electric solenoid to operate it. The tensioner had a spring. The later ones used two thinner belts and there was no solenoid or spring on the tensioner. The older ones can have the snout shortened to do away with the single pulley set up and use the newer twin belt pulley.
     
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  21. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    Good info :)
     
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  22. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    I have a complete Kaiser setup for a flathead six. It ran a 2bbl in an aluminum air box. I'll get it on something some day. There's another Student V8 set around too and my son knows how to rebuild them.
     
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  23. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    Got some photos? Seems like I have a lot of room available on the passenger side I’m curious how big these are/ can be.

    thinking if I can get into one cheap-ish that I might go that way if I pull the head and it’s got the low compression pistons in it.

    Just say dreaming at the moment but you’ve got me curious
     
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  24. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    I'll see if I can dig the Kaiser set out. It would be closer to what you need as far as mounting. I looked on the net at some and I think the cheapish ones are gone.
     
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  25. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Yeah I’d imagine a straight six unit would really fill in the picture of everything goes on to run one on a setup like this
     
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  26. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Snooping around, looking at these for escape I’ve likely got enough room 9D4E0AD2-32A2-49FD-B57C-9020F0A5105B.jpeg 0EBBB41F-F1D5-4E7F-A33A-79505AD7B7CD.jpeg
     
  27. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Some good ideas for brackets E2314297-F7F2-421F-B17C-488A7D812CFA.jpeg 4075FCF6-08B1-40AB-B12A-BFEDF0D9B3D8.jpeg F7E87012-6E45-43BE-82A9-24EFD0C0BD9D.jpeg 97D4D0E2-7444-41E0-B5C4-D09DF6A43A70.jpeg 383D017D-B6E7-4EDC-9CF7-A26DA54D9E25.jpeg
     
  28. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Nice pictures!
     
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  29. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    @Six Ball do yours have helical or straight cut gears? Seems like some of these sound crazy loud and others make almost zero noise
     
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  30. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    They are driven by a set of balls in a planetary that increases the impeller speed. If the initial crank to SC ratio is 1 to 1 at 4,000rpm the impeller is turning close to 18,000 rpm. They have to be within tight tolerances or they make a lot of noise for a short time. I would imagine that how they are mounted could add to noise. The early McCulloch is very quiet later Paxtons were different. Here is some good info and pictures.
    https://www.diyford.com/centrifugal-superchargers-guide-in-ford-small-blocks/
     

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