Took my daughter hunk hunting and found this little light. Super dark red lense we think it’s a wwii era military truck marker light. Thinking it’s exactly what I had in mind for from blinkers other than its a red lense which probably isn’t that big of deal.
Lances 181 http://www.lancesorchik.com/Art/ART-in-Motion/i-dzWkfpr/A http://www.lancesorchik.com/Art/ART-in-Motion/i-VhthzC7/A http://www.lancesorchik.com/Art/ART-in-Motion/i-sj7tp7S/A Boat cam, self built header and intake with single carb. Think its single exhaust with a small glass pack. There’s a build thread here on the hamb somewhere Also thinking I’d that light is hard to find a mate to it may turn into a warning light under the dash for temp or oil pressure.mounted upside down off the bottom of the dash maybe? Guess I’ll see how hard a mate is to find and how bright the bulb is
Looks like wwii military truck marker light / black out light is correct. Haven’t found a lense match yet but looks like some were even made by ford and are marked as so. Not real familiar with how bright a black out light would be for a blinker so a warning light may be a better use for it. Either way I think I’ll grab it and sit it on the shelf for now
Nice little light, you'll find a spot for it. Sometimes it's funny how much we do to fit something cool into the plan to make it look like it was always part of the plan. There is a lot os speed equipment for these engines in Brazil and Argentina. I have no idea how to access it. Both tlowe and CNC DUDE here have imported some for sixes. Here are some pictures of the flathead Fenton headers and the header plate for the 153.
And I thought so many guys were running those damn u-build “lake” style header kits cause they think they look cool. Turns out it’s just easy and no real thinking required. Marker light rocks. Six Ball is totally right about how we’ll force something cool into a build. I’m extensively modifying my NOS warbird red jewel light to fit my dash. Most people I believe would redirect their efforts down a easier path. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
@Six Ball yeah I hunted for a while and got no where. It’s like only YouTube exists in both places lol. Thanks for matching up the flathead stuff I can believe how close they land I’m honestly surprised the ends are that dead on! I went back and bought the light and ran the numbers on the bucket, a few popped up as John deer marker lights but most of them were sold as ww2 era Harley and Indian motorcycle lights. As an optional accessory, found some neat adds online but the photos were to small to bother saving. Looks like they exist out in the wild but not for cheap. I’ll have to go hunt some tractor junk yards lol
Yeah, they line up pretty well. The cast Fentons would take some work. The right side won't work because the main tube runs down the center of the ports. The driver side could be made to work and you might be able to one from a broken set. It does show that a set of tube headers would be a good place to start but 194-292 six tubes would be easier. Crap I have some of those too. I just thought of them. I'll get pictures of them but It's supposed to be lots of snow for the next couple of days.
Those have 4 exhaust ports right? I saw some Chevy 6 split tube headers in a speedway catalog and wondered if you couldn’t but them up and run them. Hey @Austin kays dig how close that flathead header is!
Pretty much do what I did for the header flange. Use the front pieces is and cut and weld the #6 on the front piece. #6 ends up as #4. You have to mess a little with the stud notches and the back hole.
Got side tracked the cow bell got the best of me. Sounds good. to me How do you get outa this thing. LMAO https://redirect.viglink.com/?forma...ancesorchik.com/Art/ART-in-Motion/i-VhthzC7/A
@porknbeaner nova sounds like flowmasters or something similar I think. Doesn’t sound like all the others with glass packs to me
With the cash outlay on that little car I don't doubt he is using a chambered motor of some sort. I probably wouldn't have split it behind the muffler myself, but he did and it don't sound bad.
That sounds better to me. It pisses me off when people tell me that the GMC 270 in my '53 pickup sounds like a V8. It doesn't at all. It just means they don't know an inline 6 could sound powerful.
A 6 never sounds like a V8, if for no other reason the firing order makes them sound different. Some 6s sound better then others but to say one sounds like a V8 would be an insult, well if I said it did it would. ( I wouldn't insult you that way. )
A few years ago I went to a car show about 70 miles away over the mountains with three local guys driving a '54 Merc and 2 Model As. All had 350/350 power. I was last in line. After we parked they all opened their hoods and told me to do the same. One of the A guys said. "My God! A six how did you keep up? We were hauling ass a couple of times." I took the lead on the way home and had almost finished my second beer before he got back to the Bar we started from. Not saying my pickup is faster than his A just that we can do more than keep up.
I think it’s probabky the bass aspects to the sound at idle. Most people think 6 and 4 cylinders as motors that are quite, crackle or buzz. Still don’t know what I want to do with my exhaust other than I want dual exhaust tips purely for looks. A chambered muffler seems to sound better to me and would be avalible with a 1 in 2 out set up. Could be the way to go
My pickup (270 GMC) has Fenton headers and dual exhaust on the left that exit side by side at the rear bumper. I tried to run them without mufflers. That made one trip to Reno. It sounded great but too loud. Now it has cherry bombs because they were available. With that kind of muffler length is import it tuning the sound. Once I had the headers collected into one 3" pipe with a flow Master. It sounded good but ran like crap. It exited in front of the left rear wheel and felt like it was sucking my brain out through my left ear. It actually hurt with the window down. The best running set up was Viper long tube headers with an H pipe and one pipe to each side out to the bumper. Higher RPMs by far and very little low end power loss.
Another intake option? Maybe for the turbo. https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-19...133208?hash=item5b368b7598:g:vDUAAOSwol5Y4KHo
Alright brace yourselves, a post that isn’t about manifolds lol After many small work sessions during the Little ones naps I got the cowl out! This is a big step in the over all mocking up of the project. I’m going to plot and mark the tank on how I want it cut and then haul it over to a friends to use his plasma cutter. With the tank cut out I can get the hanging pedals mounted, the master cylinders mounted and the steering mounted properly. I’m using a 38/9 pickup cross steer box and column . As of right now I’m thinking I will slice the tank side of the stock column mount in half and bolt the 38/9 unit to it similar to what is show in Tardels new book on hot ridding a stock model A. It’s all up to mocking it up to see if that will happen but that’s the idea in my head. Oh! And I’ll be able to cut and fill the dash and be poised for that project. That all will allow me to build the intake and exhaust I’ve. Been rambling about with out worrying that it’s going to be in the way of some other sub assembly. I also took a minute and stuck the new little light I found into a pre existing hole to see if i liked the blinker idea in real life as much as I did in my head. Well I do! My only concern looking st the photos is where the shock will run. Should be easy enough to put something in the shocks place and see what’s what. It’s a guide R8-50-1 a light used, from what I can find online, from 1938-1955 on all sorts of things but the most common seems to be Harley and Indian tail/ accessory from the 40’s and early 50’s John deer tractors. They don’t seem like they are to hard to come across so I’m going to keep an eye out for another cheap one. They are stud mounted with the wire coming out a grommet just behind the mounting stud. I’m thinking I may center drill one of the fender brace bolts and run the wire threw it. Trying to avoid drilling more holes than I really need to while keeping it as clean as I can visually. Alright so I rambled but it wasn’t about the header lol
Along with using the '38-'39 steering box and column have you thought about using the steering wheel light switch? I always liked the one in my '38 coupe. The steering wheels are cool too.
I have a NOS wire harness around here somewhere don't know what year. I got it from FLAT-BOB several years ago when he acquired an old shop full of parts. He may still have some some. Tell him who sent you.
So after looking at the photos I was concerned about the tube shock trying to take up the same space as the light in some plane. Used some random stuff to mock up where a shock would run and it’s all behind the light. I think I’d have to tilt it over and run a pretty fat shock for it to be any issue. I’m currently planing on running the shock with the upper mount welded to the fender brace like the black gendered coupe Ryan and Keith did a couple years ago. Seems to be working for that car and it hasn’t got a full head light bar, so I’m figuring my headlight bar should brace it all a little stiffer and be just fine. In the back I’m going to use 46 ford rear lower mounts and weld a stud into the rear cross member for the upper
When my son and I built his Studebaker station wagon we put bags where the front Coils springs were. There were no bags with center hole back then so we had to mount the shocks elsewhere. We attached the top of the driver side to the steering box. That was not a good idea. I don't think a fender brace is wise either but if it's working for someone it may be OK. Before you design the front suspension around the little light make sure you can find another one and some not red or blue lenses.
I can find them easy enough and I was going to run the upper shock to that location far before I found this light. I have another pair of fender braces/ brackets that are cast iron and look pretty similar to f-1 shocks mounts so I don’t realy doubt that they should do the job. Though actually the later style ones I have bolted to the car now do feel stronger. I’m every bit of 225 lbs and can bounce up and down on the bracket and it doesn’t flinch so I figure with the headlight bar tying them together I shouldn’t have any issues. Though I clearly appreciate your advice. Worse case I’ll gusset the bracket or build something totally different
I'm not a Model A guy but I've used the F-1 brackets and if it is near that stout it'll be fine and well as already in place.
Got the tank painted and the first draft of cut lines marked to be cut. Gonna sleep innit and walk by it anwhile before I confirm anything but I think it’s pretty close to what I’ll end up doing. I always clean and the. Paint everything flat white before I make cut lines just to make it easier to stay on course. I’m trying to keep some of the tank in place to keep it ridged, as well as keeping the stock column support. I’m considering running a brace from the firewall to the top of the column support to triangulate everything and work as part of the bracing for the hanging pedals. Think I may be able to drill out two of the rivits and bolt it together. Thread the brace side so I don’t have to find a way to get a nut a wrench and a fat hand in there. The depth along the rest of the dash line could also House switches, buttons, 12 volt port and maybe an underdash light? I’ve seen ignition keys mounted out of the way in this fashion but I’d be concerned that with any sort of key chain it would pull out or wear prematurely? Anyhow gonna sleep on it I also loosely mocked up my pedals where they will land. I’m planing on placing them as far to the outside as possible and at that placement it seems to straddle the stock column support pretty well And sitting it more or less in the same place on the still in tact lower fire wall it looks good as well. I think the brake pedal make be a little close to the column so I’ll use some strong magnets to hold the bracket in place later on to mock it up and make sure the pedal pads and my big feet clear everything.
Well my friend saw I had it out and marked so little miss and I dropped it off to him this afternoon to cut. Officially it was a grocery store run, just happened to pick a grocery store near his house haha. Should have it ready for me after work tonight and @Austin kays is bringing me some mega strong magnets that I’ll use to help mock up the pedals. Gonna start looking like something soon!
The Jalopy Journal
