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Projects time to build a new car for the hills

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by nutrocker, Sep 22, 2012.

  1. Bib Overalls
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,071

    Bib Overalls
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Those SU manifolds are trick. Do they perform better than the traditional Stromberg and Holly carbs on road coarses?
     
  2. nutrocker
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 374

    nutrocker
    Member

    Still been working away on the race car in between the other stuff.

    The other week when the sun did shine for an afternoon I wheeled it outside the gate onto the road to take a look at it from all angles and from further away than I can see in the confines of the garage.

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    The rear end does look a bit odd without the fuel tank and with it being so high due to the chassis not being stepped, but, you know, I quite like it, gives it that early dirt track car look.

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    A quick mock up with the hood top from the roadster again, a proper one will be made later, and time to take it down for final welding and painting.

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    Pete
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  3. nutrocker
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 374

    nutrocker
    Member

    Rockit, thanks for the nice words. I will get to the gearbox adaptation a bit later in the thread, but for now I will just say it was easy.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  4. nutrocker
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 374

    nutrocker
    Member


    Bib, in my humble opinion the simple SU is the best carb made and has to be one of the easiest carbs to set up. And there are many ways to tune them too. Another thing is they flow more cfm than a 94 or 97.

    Pete
     
    Chalkie likes this.
  5. seatex
    Joined: Oct 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,660

    seatex
    Member

    Man, you've got some mad, crazy skills! that's some of the nicest welding I've ever seen! WOW!
     
  6. Thank You very much, for sharing your build with us mere mortals! WOW!
     
  7. kevintothej
    Joined: Sep 22, 2009
    Posts: 143

    kevintothej
    Member
    from Arizona

    PAINT!?! Not over that fantastic aluminum work! Say it aint so.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  8. TexasSpeed
    Joined: Nov 2, 2009
    Posts: 4,618

    TexasSpeed
    Member

    Gee.. You sure have your way with aluminum really quick. Already talking about breaking it down for paint.
     
  9. bonesy
    Joined: Aug 14, 2005
    Posts: 2,999

    bonesy
    Member

    Amen!
     
  10. nutrocker
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 374

    nutrocker
    Member

    Strip down time.

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    I finished welding the chassis. The paint for this will be just rattle cans, no point in paying for a good paint job when it's only gonna get ruined as the car evolves.

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    Chassis painted along with the axles and the rest of the chassis parts and all put back together, sorry but I don't seem to have any pics of that stage.

    So with the chassis and axles painted and put back together it was time to do a bit to the motor to get it ready for dropping back in. First job was to mount the gear box. Easy task that took only a few mins once the flywheel and clutch had been mounted along with the sump. This is where the first problem happened. I had taken the front and rear bearing housings off to replace the seals and gaskets, and it appears that in doing this I had knocked the three little sprung loaded tabs the locate the syncro out and had lost 3rd and 4th gear. So off came the gearbox and time to sort the problem. This is where the second problem occurred, I'm crap with gearboxes and might have well been working on it with a hand full on toes. Had to pull the whole cluster out to fix the issue and because I'm a cackhanded idiot it all fell apart and I spent ages fishing for bits of bearing, springs and tabs out of the bottom of the box.

    Now I have a pile of bits on the bench, scratching my head (with oily hands) wondering if at this point I should get another gearbox , couldn't make up my mind so went to the hayride instead .

    Back from the hayride and full of enthusiasm I tackle the cluster, easy, went together without any problems until I picked it up by one of selectors and dropped the lot on the floor , so after about an hour of Sue and myself searching under the bench, under the car, across the floor and anywhere where roller bearings and springs will travel all the bits where found. Time to clean them up and re-assemble it again and this time it all went ok, with it back in the box out of harms way, i.e. my hands, and all gears back. Lovely.

    Pete
     
  11. nutrocker
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 374

    nutrocker
    Member

    The next bit was to fit the Volvo gearbox and sort the clutch and release bearing. I've done this bit as a bit of a tech thing, hope you guys find it interesting.

    First bit was to get the cast truck type adapter, not sure exactly what years or model, I'm sure someone will know.

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    You need to make a center locator as the snout on the gearbox is much smaller than the hole on the adapter. For this I took the original Volvo bell housing and cut the mounting flange off.

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    It was then turned in the lathe so that it was about 3mm thick apart from the center bit that would locate in the center of the truck adapter.

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    Lay it on the adapter and drill and tap the four mounting holes for the gearbox.

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    and on the inside you can see how it all locates.

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    Just need to bolt the box onto the adapter and that bits done.

    I'm using the standard French flywheel so had it skimmed and drilled and pined for the Volvo pressure plate and cover. This was done by the local machine shop as it needs to be clocked and done right.

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    The center bush in the flywheel also needed to have a little adapter fitted as the spigot on the Volvo box is smaller than the Ford one. I turned up a little phosphor bronze bush made to a knock in fit and added a bit of thread lock to be sure.

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    At this point I did need to take the spigot bush out again as it was a bit too long, but didn't take any pics of it once sorted, sorry.

    So, gearbox and clutch mounted just the throw out bearing left to sort.
    This was done by taking the Volvo bearing and housing and mating it to the Ford fork and bearing housing.

    This is the Volvo bits as a whole and with the housing pressed out.

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    And with the bit I want to fit it to.

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    Pete
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  12. nutrocker
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 374

    nutrocker
    Member

    The first thing to do was turn the Ford part down in the lathe to make it shorter and also to open out the inside to take the ally part from the Volvo.

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    Only a small amount was taken out and hopefully not too much as to make it weak.

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    Then the ally Volvo part was pressed in.

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    That was it, really simple, took a bit of time working out the measurements but a simple way of doing it.

    These following pics are not great due to operating the clutch arm with an adjustable spanner with one hand and trying to take pics with the other while trying not to pop a bollock.

    With the bearing assembly right back

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    With the bearing taking up the end float. There is about 1/8" free play. You can see the gap between the fork and housing.

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    And finally with the clutch fully disengaged

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    Going to put a spring on the housing just like on a Ford box to keep the fork in contact with the housing.

    I have tried the clutch with a spanner and it seems to work well, can't turn the gearbox, press the clutch in and I can turn it. Won't know completely until I get to drive it but confident it'll be fine.

    Pete
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  13. ROCKIT
    Joined: Sep 1, 2006
    Posts: 80

    ROCKIT
    Member

    You make it look so simple Pete.
    Are the distances from flywheel to actuator arm similar to the Ford setup?
    Do you know the years or models that the Volvo box was used?
     
  14. hammered30
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 152

    hammered30
    Member
    from west aus

    WOW :eek::eek: just found this tread. the work you have done is fantastic cant wait to see more pictures and up dates also subscribed
    Cheers paul
     
  15. kiwicowboy
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 349

    kiwicowboy
    Member
    from linwood nc

  16. Rusty anarchist
    Joined: Jul 2, 2012
    Posts: 72

    Rusty anarchist
    Member
    from Edmonton

    Nothing that hasn't been said yet, however sir your fabrication skills are awesome. Great build thank you for sharing with the hamb
     
  17. nutrocker
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 374

    nutrocker
    Member

    Time to bolt the bits back on the motor. Nathan, (Nifty on here) sent me some heads that I could use for a bit, didn't know what was coming, just an email saying heads on the way feel free to use them, and when they arrived they were a pair of steel Champion high comp heads, and very nice there are too, so many thanks to Nifty Nathan for the loan of the heads, they look great on my car, will look shit on yours , thanks geeza.

    these are just placed on at the time of taking the pics

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    So with the gearbox back on the back of the motor one week after I had tried last time it was time to think about dropping the motor back in the chassis, 20 mins later, job done

    Now, with the engine in the chassis and the heads and intake bolted on it would be a shame not to fire it up, well I thought so, so after a bit of fiddling around on Sat night it fired up for a moment. The timing was out and no water meant it was only for a very short time and not long enough to even check anything. This morning I reset the static timing, filled it up with water and, well take a look.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AfzkT8ZvAs&feature=player_embedded#t=0s

    To say I'm happy is an understatement, the carbs are not set up in any way or balanced, the timing has only been roughly set and the exhaust has no gaskets or all the bolts. This start up was from cold, all I did was prime the carbs with fuel from the pump before hand.

    Still loads to do but with the motor now running I can carry on with the build with confidence.

    Pete
     
    Jungle Jalopy likes this.
  18. 18n57
    Joined: Jun 29, 2007
    Posts: 577

    18n57
    Member

    Pete, this has to be one of the best build threads I have ever seen on the HAMB!! Your skills are fantastic....can't wait to see more. Absolutely love the grille shell!
    Thanks for sharing ..........cheers
     
  19. Cshabang
    Joined: Mar 30, 2004
    Posts: 2,458

    Cshabang
    Member

    killer fab work!!!
     
  20. reefer
    Joined: Oct 17, 2001
    Posts: 763

    reefer
    Member

    I'm loving' that video of the motor running........
     
  21. So-Cal Speed Sacramento
    Joined: Sep 6, 2008
    Posts: 463

    So-Cal Speed Sacramento
    Alliance Vendor
    from Sacramento

    That is soo bad-ass!!! The frame and crossmember is amazing and I am strangely in love with the frame mounts for the front wishbones. consider me subscribed!
     
  22. fordf1trucknut
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 1,117

    fordf1trucknut
    Member

    WOW.... amazing work!!!!
     
  23. nifty
    Joined: Jan 7, 2007
    Posts: 477

    nifty
    Member
    from UK

    Considering its a racecar Pete I think you'd best have the ali heads off my motor. can't have you getting weighted down and wallowing going into all the hairpins
     
  24. motorgod7
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 136

    motorgod7
    Member
    from chico,ca.

    Totally awesome, I'd think there are all sorts of bits you could produce and sell based off this car. Fantastic work!
     
  25. So-Cal Speed Sacramento
    Joined: Sep 6, 2008
    Posts: 463

    So-Cal Speed Sacramento
    Alliance Vendor
    from Sacramento

    I agree! And if you are looking for a retail outlet, look no further!!!
     
  26. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,768

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    Great build!

    Do you think the Amazon gearbox will survive behind a "build" Flathead?

    Would be an interesting alternative...
     
  27. nutrocker
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 374

    nutrocker
    Member

    Wow! Interesting, will give it some thought.

    Pete
     
  28. nutrocker
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 374

    nutrocker
    Member


    I know of one Amazon backed flatty that runs in the 14's without a problem so hoping it'll be OK. My motor is mostly stock at this time but it will progress as time passes. I have heard that they are good for 200hp, we'll have to see.

    Pete
     
  29. Iceberg460
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 880

    Iceberg460
    Member

    :eek: Holy S#%t!! Awesome build, still picking my jaw up off the floor... Think I got a new favorite build on the HAMB
     

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