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Projects Time for another '32 pickup.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by edwardlloyd, Jul 12, 2017.

  1. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    [​IMG]
    For those who missed the last 32 pickup build thread. Here it is, the Desbrow.

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  2. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 24,328

    The37Kid
    Member

    Another great build, sorry it took so long for me to find it.


    Bob
     
  3. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    You're a bit late Bob. The party's almost over.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    kiwijeff and Stogy like this.
  4. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 3,673

    banjorear
    Member

    Do you have a pict of how the chatter rods attach to the K member? I'd appreciate it.
     
    MIKE STEWART and Boryca like this.
  5. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    [​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    juan motime and Stogy like this.
  6. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,075

    1946caddy
    Member
    from washington

    The Blockley tires caught my interest and I went to their website. 650/16 tire is 182.50 pounds
    converted to dollars is $228.13.
    Lucas does sell them in the US for about $385.00 each.
    They're only marking them up $156.87 per tire. Such a good deal.
     
  7. Jivewire
    Joined: Mar 24, 2007
    Posts: 30

    Jivewire
    Member
    from Indy

    Really interesting build. Great craftsmanship.
     
    MIKE STEWART likes this.
  8. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    Actually 182.50 UK Stirling minus 20% sales tax. Those prices include sales tax. If you order direct and have them ship to the US they'll knock 20% off.

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    Stogy likes this.
  9. qzjrd5
    Joined: Nov 23, 2004
    Posts: 1,210

    qzjrd5
    Member
    from Troy, MI

    You're doing an amazing job on this build. Thanks for all the great pics as well!
     
  10. SR100
    Joined: Nov 26, 2013
    Posts: 485

    SR100
    Member

    It's worth e-mailing Blockley for a list of US dealers: "We have many other stockists throughout Europe and the USA - please contact for details." Looking around briefly, I saw an Connecticut British parts dealer who carried the 6.00x16 for more than $100 less than Lucas. 6.50x16 may be a special-order item through some dealers, it's not a size that was commonly used in European cars.
     
  11. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    This is the grill shell which came with the body. It looks very deep. Can someone tell me if this is a 32 or a 33?
    I'm pretty Sure it has to be a 33.
    Also are the 32 and 33 hoods different? And how can I check my hood is a 32?
    I've enclosed a picture of one of the hood sides. It sure looks like a 32.
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2017
    juan motime and Stogy like this.
  12. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,593

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Grille is a 33, the hood is a 32. You are right that the grille is deeper. It is also supposed to mount with a slant, so the top surface has more slant than the 32 would. The repro UPAC 32 pickup grilles look really nice if you can't find a reasonably priced original.

    The 32 pickup hood is the same as a car hood. You have what looks like a repro 25 louver hood. A 33 pickup hood looks very similar, but I think they have 23 louvers, and the front edge is slanted (not too much) to match the layed back grille. The bottom bead also has a slight kink in it because of the 33 frame's matching arch.
     
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  13. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    Thanks for confirming what I suspected. You're right. I think my hood is a reproduction. It looks too new.

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  14. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,075

    1946caddy
    Member
    from washington

    I got a email from Blockley and they will mail direct to the USA and accept Paypal. I'm supposed to be getting a quote for tires sent to my address in the next few days.
     
    brEad likes this.
  15. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    Don't forget to order the tubes too. Their tubes are very high quality.

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  16. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    So here's a little update.
    [​IMG]
    Finding somewhere to mount the battery wasn't easy. The chassis strengtheners take away all the space under the frame. We decided to keep the engine bay clean to I ended up making this battery box which mounts on the rear crossmember. It means the battery is still easily accessible but isn't visible under you crawl under the truck. It's placement also helps a little with weight distribution.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Three images showing the stainless steel exhaust. The last shows a stainless steel weld before grinding smooth. I'm going to have the sections polished so they'll look like chrome.

    [​IMG]
    This bracket attaches under the bed near the battery towards the rear. It holds the marine stainless steel cut off switch and the starter solenoid.

    [​IMG]
    Here's the F1 steering box turned down and fitted with a stainless steel flange and an outer frame embellisher.
    [​IMG]
    Here it is fitted to the frame. I mounted it a little further forward than stock. This means that the steering wheel sits in the correct position and it just clears the Speedway economy header.

    [​IMG]
    This is the '40 wheel I bought from Limeworks which is splined to fit the F1 column.

    [​IMG]
    Normally very hard to find. Someone just started repopping the '32 steering column drop. It's a beautiful piece. Bought on eBay.

    [​IMG]
    Running fenderless but with a hood presents a little problem. No where to attach the rear hood catch. So I used these Model-A brackets bought from Macs.

    [​IMG]
    Making the headlight stand using a set up bar to keep everything straight.
    It's a cut a modified original 32 Truck bar.

    [​IMG]
    Welded up and blended to welds smooth.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Notice the new repro '32 truck grill shell. Luckily just become available. I see a big demand for this item not just for trucks. At $650 it's cheaper than a shell with insert and looks great.

    [​IMG]
    A warning to all. The Thomas Brice radiator is at least 1" too short!!! So I decided to take the plunge and order a Walker.

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  17. rd martin
    Joined: Nov 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,897

    rd martin
    Member
    from indiana

    very nice work! as with the other truck! i remember seeing this cab for sale, you found a nice one. im also wanting one!
     
  18. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 4,975

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    Your hood is the early repo, but nicely done 25 louver. Original 25 had the very front 2louvers shorter above the front hood latch, both of these are repo but the original very first louver is not punched. IMG_1960.JPG newhood2.jpg hood side 1.jpg
     
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  19. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    Well it's available new now. That's what I'll do next time.

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  20. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    haring likes this.
  21. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    I wanted to fit a tach, water temp and oil pressure gauge but there was no way I was going to cut holes in an original 1932 Ford dash.
    Hanging them below it looks cluttered and there's little enough room in the cab anyway.
    I have fitted dual electric wipers and the motor protrudes into the interior so it needed covering up anyway.
    So I made this header panel out of a metal shelf which already had textured paint on it similar to the fiberglass headliner.
    It holds the three instruments and the wiper switch.
    I'll paint it black later.
    [​IMG]
    It's easier to tip the cab over, when fitting the headliner, windlacing and header panel. That way you're not working above your head.

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    mgtstumpy, brEad, kiwijeff and 4 others like this.
  22. Shadow Creek
    Joined: May 14, 2014
    Posts: 90

    Shadow Creek
    Member
    from Summit, TX

    Very nice! I try to always subscribe to your threads! Who repops the truck grille shell?
     
  23. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    I think the company is called United Pacific. But they're available from several suppliers now on eBay.

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  24. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    The truck got completely stripped down today. I'm now finishing off the frame. A few rivets need replacing. I've welded up the original steering box holes. Pictures coming tomorrow.

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    Stogy likes this.
  25. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 9,201

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    Great build man! Love to see the little details that no one would otherwise never see.
     
  26. fortynut
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 795

    fortynut
    Member

    Your work speaks for itself. Volumes. Your choices are idiosyncratic, and I am impressed with how you solve problems. You didn't explain why you changed your mind about the battery. In the old days, putting it in the present location would have been disastrous due to road hazards. To clear something up. United Pacific not only reproduces grills but Deuce cabs, as well as other goodies. Keep us amazed, and I suspect the end result will be as accomplished as what you have shown us so far.
     
  27. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    The customer didn't like the battery in the engine bay. He felt it distracted from the flathead. I'd have kept it on the firewall just above the starter which keeps things really simple.
    However the new location is at least as safe as the original location hanging down from the frame under the drivers seat.
    It has a couple of other advantages too. It helps redistribute weight above the rear axle. And it can gas off in the open.

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  28. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    This is an early frame without the factory fitted frame reinforcements over the kickup. These frames started failing in this area in 1932 if you overloaded them.
    This frame had been repaired here before. Anyway, you need to reproduce factory reinforcements and rivet them in place. So here they are. Painted the inside of the sandwich and riveted in place. Still another 4 rivets per side to be placed alone the bottom.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  29. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,002

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    The original front crossmember was chopped to pieces in a misguided attempt to install IFS in its previous life.
    Here I am fitting a replacement 1932 front crossmember.
    After much trial and error I ended up with the perfect front spring. A 1001L Super Slide from Posies.
    The original '32 front crossmember sets the car about 1" higher than a Model A crossmember. This does however, mean you can use a much flatter spring without it hitting the frame rails. The 1001L is a reverse eye almost flat spring and is 31 1/2" long, making it the correct choice for a stock 32 I-beam.
    I've trial fitted it and it gets the car as low as it'll go.[​IMG]

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    mgtstumpy, brEad, haring and 2 others like this.
  30. I've always admired the time you take to rivet, rather than weld your frames. A technical question for you though... Do you heat the rivet in place on the frame, or do you heat the rivet and then transfer the hot rivet into position in the frame?
     
    junkers72 likes this.

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