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Projects Time for another '32 pickup.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by edwardlloyd, Jul 12, 2017.

  1. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    This week was fender week. Next week too. Here are the front fenders. I found a 1930s spare tire ring. No idea what it's from. It's got a stainless steel trim along the center rib.
    I made sturdy brackets and blended all the welds to make them look like forgings. They bolt onto the backing plates so are removable.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Today I started on the rear fenders. More updates next week on them.

    I also picked up this nice aluminium oil filter housing. It's from Argentina. No idea if it's rare but the standard filter fits inside. Only thing is it's slightly damages and will need a little welding.
    [​IMG]

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    Last edited: Oct 22, 2017
    chop job, biggeorge, Fern 54 and 5 others like this.
  2. edcodesign
    Joined: Mar 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,853

    edcodesign
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Cool I like both trucks ! Ed.
     
  3. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    Here's a picture showing the front and rear tires together. Not a huge difference in size and this might not be ideal for a roadster but I think it'll suit the pickup well.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

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  4. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    [​IMG]
    The frame is now restored. At this stage I start to trial fit all the components to make sure everything fits before paint.
    [​IMG]
    Here is one of the Bill Stipes shocks and Bob Drake 1940 brake hose bracket installed.
    [​IMG]
    Industrial Chassis Inc. 1932 pedal set. I spent about an hour grinding the pedal arms smooth to make them look more light forgings.
    [​IMG]
    These are the kickup strengtheners. Essential on any original 32 frame. This was actually an official recall in 1932 but I've rarely seen a 32 frame with factory strengthers so I guess most never got retro fitted.


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  5. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 6,147

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Edward your attention to detail is very evident. Stellar workmanship and very knowledgeable as well. Always a good read visually and otherwise.
     
    kiwijeff and Max Gearhead like this.
  6. Looks like you have a lot of riveting ahead of you!
     
  7. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    Not a lot as the frame has never been apart. So it's just the front cross member, the kick up strengtheners and the left K-member leg need riveting in.
    This is how the frame looked two weeks ago half way through me cutting out the IFS with my plasma cutter.
    [​IMG]

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  8. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    [​IMG]
    Superbell forged steering arm needs to be bent down to clear the stock 32 perch. Still needs to come down another 1/4".
    [​IMG]
    These are the 32 frame strengtheners from Industrial Chassis Inc. They make a huge difference to the rigidity of the 32 frame which is an appallingly weak design.
    [​IMG]
    Although both the legs and the pedals come from Industrial Chassis Inc, the 1940 MC doesn't fit and you have to make this recess in the left leg.

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  9. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    [​IMG]
    I bought this freshly overhauled F1 steering box on eBay for a fair price. It arrived yesterday and I was more than pleased with the condition. You can use the F1 or the F100 steering for a side steer hot rod. These boxes are like power steering for these light weight cars. The column enters the F1 box underneath the sector shaft and it's a bit more compact than the F100 box. F1 boxes clear the header easier on Model-As and 32s. A F100 box will give you a sportier steering wheel angle.
    As this is a stock bodied 32 pickup I decided to use the F1 box.
    I'll cover the installation process soon.

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  10. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    [​IMG]
    And lastly for today. When installing Houdaille shocks, don't forget the stiffener plate mounted behind the frame. I made them myself by copying an original I had.

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  11. Wow Edward. So impressive. First class work.
     
  12. FlatJan
    Joined: Dec 13, 2013
    Posts: 192

    FlatJan
    Member
    from TX

    me likey thumbs up!
     
  13. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,523

    Runnin shine
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Wow Ed impeccable work as always.
    Another extremely kind and awesome HAMB member gave me a set of mildly worn 16x550 and 16x600 Blockley tyres for my 32 build. I absolutely love them. I am so happy you posted the pic of the 650 next to the 550. I have been wanting to get the 650s for the rear in my future but was concerned that the width didn't look very period proportionately speaking.
    Thanks for all that you share with us in your threads.


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    biggeorge likes this.
  14. Justin32IH
    Joined: Oct 8, 2016
    Posts: 2

    Justin32IH
    Member

    Its a pleasure to see the outstanding work and level of craftsmanship you put in each of your builds.
     
  15. Bader2
    Joined: May 19, 2014
    Posts: 1,135

    Bader2

    Looks awesome! Keep givener!


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    joel likes this.
  16. Interesting project, fantastic attention to detail.


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  17. terry k
    Joined: Jan 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,298

    terry k
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from toledo oh

    Did you make the stiffening plates for the kick up area ??
     
  18. See below quote:
     
  19. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,877

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

     
  20. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    The kickup stiffeners have to be made up as I haven't found anyone who makes them.

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  21. terry k
    Joined: Jan 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,298

    terry k
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from toledo oh

    Those shock backing plates and the frame stiffeners would be easy parts for Industrial Chassis to knock out on their machines. Thanks
     
  22. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    The X legs are from Industrial Chassis Inc. The kickup strengthers are more difficult because they're curved.

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  23. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    So progressed today on the pickup. The engine when in for a trial fit. I preferred the fit without the front engine mount extensions which made it sit too high.
    It's amazing how hard it is to fit a flathead V8 in a 32!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This flange on the sump to bellhousing has to be ground away a bit to clear the wishbone.
    [​IMG]

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  24. golgotha
    Joined: Jan 8, 2009
    Posts: 33

    golgotha
    Member

    I too am building a 32' ford pickup. It will also be unchopped. I have been saving up parts for five years. I am trying to find options for electric wipers (12volts)
     
  25. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    I used the "clean wipe" kit from Macs. P/N B-17508-12CW. At $454.95 it's not cheap but it's a well made system and was easy to fit.

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    Stogy likes this.
  26. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    Fitting a battery to a '32 isn't easy. Especially after you've fitted X-legs, hydraulic brakes and a dual exhaust. There simply wasn't any room left in the chassis.
    So I followed Roy Desbrow's example and fitted it to the firewall. You wouldn't want to do this if you're running without a hood but this build is going to be fitted with a hood anyway.
    I built a frame to hold the battery with a tie down bar. It fitted to existing holes in the firewall and can be easily removed without accessing the rear of the firewall. This is important because it'll need removing if you want to pull the engine out.
    This location is also ideal because it's close to the starter, minimizing cable length.
    [​IMG]

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    biggeorge, brad2v and Stogy like this.
  27. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    Often missing and often forgotten are the anti-chatter rods. These locate the engine assembly vor and aft and prevent clutch shudder at the biting point.
    Mine were missing so I fabricated a pair using heavier gauge rod than Ford did.
    You'll find the location points on the K-member.
    [​IMG]

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  28. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    I am in the process of building a stainless steel exhaust system for the truck. I've used Smithys mufflers which are made of mild steel and Speedway exhaust headers.
    I used 1 7/8" OD stainless steel pre-bent sections. I ordered a selection of 15, 30, 45 and 90° bends. This are bent cleaner than you can bend yourself on an exhaust bending machine.
    The exhaust system is hard mounted and attached to the headers used 18" lengths of stainless steel flexible tube.
    I like to weld the sections together and then grind and polish the welds so they aren't visible. That way the system flows through the chassis looking like it's bend up out of one piece.
    [​IMG]
    I made up these clamps. They clamp the exhaust sections together so it's perfectly aligned. I can then set 6 spots through the holes before removing the clamp. I can then seam weld around and it's perfectly aligned so there's no step anywhere.
    To weld stainless steel you'll need a bottle of Argon 4.6 and stainless steel welding wire. It welds much cleaner than mild steel.
    Here's some pictures of the system so far.
    It's going to continue through the holes in the rear crossmember then out the back to finish flush with the end of the pickup bed.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    All exhaust clamps are also stainless steel. A system like this will cost you much more than mild steel but it looks nicer and should, with the exception of the mufflers, last indefinitely.

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  29. Ralph Moore
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 552

    Ralph Moore
    Member

    Wow! Nice job on that heater. I have the exact same one in my AV8, but not as pretty.
    Beautiful job on the truck as well. [​IMG]


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  30. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,941

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    I've given all my projects over the last few years names.
    Starting with the.
    "Made in Germany A-V8"
    The "Roy Desbrow"
    "The Babushka T"
    "FiesTa"
    Still looking for a name for this truck.
    The body came from Utah but ended up on an island off Washington state before making the trip to Germany. The frame and axles spent most of their life in Argentina. The engine came from Minnesota.
    So maybe I should call it,
    "Globe Trotter"

    Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    brEad, waxhead and Stogy like this.

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