I am starting to build a 1954 Chev 3100 5 Window Pickup. I will be installing a mildly built LS3 coupled to 700R4. Front suspension will be Mustang II. I am looking for advice on favorite Mustang II setup with my goal to have a super handling truck with a great lowered stance so I need some help with springs, shocks, sway bars. I want to use the existing frame and want some advice on where to box it? Steering column length? I will be using a floor shifter. What rear end should I install? Four link? C Notch? Best headers for steering clearance? Gas tank with fuel pump for injection? I'm sure I will have many more questions and appreciate some direction to get started.
Not knowing what you're asking in a couple of questions. For instance, whether a four link is a good idea, or which brand of four link is recommended. I don't think anybody will argue that a ford 9" is a pretty solid differential. However, purists will agonize over using a ford in a chevy. Close to that, is a ford 8.8 (more available, less costly). However, you didn't mention what your intention is: For show? Race-ready? Just something to tool around in? You can want "super" handling because you intend to take it down to the corner grocery with your kids next to you, or you might want "super" handling because you are going to oval track race it. Different intentions will garner different answers. In general, I've found some helpful videos over at Speedway, regarding ford rear axles and IFS Mustang II suspensions on a 1950's chevy truck. I've also found some Corvette IRS, and IFS suspensions for 1950's Chevy trucks over at Chevs of the 40's. Some would say Corvette (C5, C6 (1997 to 2013)) is "super" handling, while Mustang II (1974 to 1978) is outdated tech, and by going with Corvette, you're keeping it Chevy, but you said you want to stick with your favorite Mustang II... Any newer suspension you update to will almost automatically be lower (I think by 2 inches), but how low do you want to go? If you go with coil springs, you don't want to cut off more than half a coil link at a time. Also, you don't want to cut the coil springs with a torch/welder. This will lower the quality of the metal, and cause premature metal failure. SAW cut all coils. Also, NEVER cut coil springs from the bottom. The bottom is level, cutting from the bottom will make the spring unbalanced. There's a pretty informative video by... (can't remember name) it's an outfit in Michigan I believe that all they do is suspensions, and they tell you when to cut, when not to, why and how to chrome plate suspension parts, and why not to, etc. If you're asking if a four link is recommended, yes (when you change from leaf springs to a coil spring setup), also a panhard bar. I believe going with fuel injection mandates a fuel pump at the gas tank. You have to maintain a certain pressure to the injectors or the fuel injectors won't work properly. As far as I know, you don't have to "box" your frame, unless you take away from it. Generally, the rule of thumb is anytime you take away from the frame, you have to add back to regain torsional stiffness. However, if you are thinking of welding the frame yourself, this isn't something a novice should do (and a professional welder can better answer if you need to box out the frame and where (you didn't mention the condition of the frame. Is it rusted out that it needs reinforcement???)). Best to leave some things to the professionals. Bolting to the frame is okay for the do it yourself-er, but you still need to follow suggestions from the manufacturer to the "T", and manufacturers will give instructions on how to go about doing all of the bolting on, where, when, and why. In general, a 3100 is a pretty heavy duty frame, although it is a lower grade steel, opposed to what is available today. You shouldn't need to "box" it out. Believe it or not, a straight 6 engine can compare to Heavy Duty V8 engines as far as torque, which is what twists the frame. However, if you're that worried about your power plant and it's impact on the frame, perhaps you should consider swapping in a C10 frame? That will already be fitted with a chevy version of the "mustang II" suspension so you won't have to do any frame modifications (except connecting the cab to the frame). I believe the '73 to '87 c10's are a easy swap in for the 50's chevy trucks. Sorry, I can't help you with the other specific questions you asked.
Hold it! You two need to read this: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-h-a-m-b-rules-guidelines.44274/
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