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Hot Rods Tilt Column Disassembly help...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fiftyv8, Jun 11, 2017.

  1. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,215

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Has any body out there got experience pulling a Flaming River Tilt Column apart.
    I am trying to get into the universal housing and I am just not sure which way to go with it.
    I have the indicator stuff and external collar off, plus tension spring removed, but just not sure what the next step is???

    There are two opposite rods in the side of the housing with a small threaded hole in each.
    These rods seem to form the hinge pivot point for the column head to tilt, but I just don't see how this head housing comes off.

    Is there a trick or am I just not seeing it???
     

    Attached Files:

    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 8,936

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Is that a circlip I can see at the top of the bushing where the shaft exits?
    upload_2017-6-11_17-20-45.png
     
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  3. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 9,480

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Never done a Flaming River but it's crazy how it looks or has the design of the GM. If it truly is a copy but only looks different here's what to do. First off yes the the two rods as you call them with the threaded hole are the pivot or pivot pin. On your very first picture the lower hole with the two cut out on the side should house the spring that makes it pop up when release lever is used. Look inside there and there should be a retainer for that spring. GM had a square hole in the middle of that retainer. Step one, release the handle that allows the column to pivot so it goes up. This will take some pressure of the spring I just mentioned. Now get a screw driver that will fit into the spring retainer that will both allow it to be pushed down and rotated so retainer and spring can be removed. With that out of the way now you can extract the pivot pin's so you can split the housing in two. Note, while splinting the housing you'll need to pull on the release handle so as to let the two halves come apart.
     
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  4. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 9,480

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Good point it'll have to come off first if it is.
     

  5. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 9,480

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Explode view of GM tilt for reference only to help with what I mentioned. [​IMG]
     
  6. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,215

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA


    Not that I can tell, just looks to be a spacer collar or sleeve.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2017
  7. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,215

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    OK, I got the spring out earlier and all was good to that point.
    Are those two pivot rods with the treaded holes screwed out or pulled out?
    I was figuring that maybe a small bolt is lock into the holes using a lock nut and something is then done to pull them out.
    I don't seem to own any small bolts that small or with what seems to be a National thread at 32 pitch.
     
  8. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,215

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    There is no ignition locking mechanism to worry about in this column.
    Going by the exploded diagram - thanks Johnny Gee - it is the pivot pins as they are called that need to be removed.
    The question now is how or with what?

    If they are just a threaded locking system, I could drill them out and tap them to a thread size that I have here, of which I have most sizes.
     
  9. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 8,936

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    upload_2017-6-11_17-56-1.png
    upload_2017-6-11_17-48-26.png upload_2017-6-11_17-49-54.png
    Found this on YouTube however there is nothing to allude as to how the top was separated from the base. There is mention of some free play (Slop) that needs to be rectified. Note the ears on the lower column that appears to attach via plugs or pin to upper column that you need to remove. There appears to be an internal pin that connects the upper and lower shafts and the outside collar would need to pivot on the same axis to work in tilt mode. Those could be the the key to separating upper and lower halves?
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2017
    Johnny Gee likes this.
  10. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,215

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Thanks mgtstumpy, yes I think you are on the money with your post.
    Still trying to work out how to get those pins your RED arrow is pointing to, out right on first attempt.
    I am sure in time we will have some one on here who has actually done this before...
     
  11. TA DAD
    Joined: Mar 2, 2014
    Posts: 501

    TA DAD
    Member
    from NC

    This is the tool to remove the pins from a GM column, it looks like you have the same set up.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...p2_VhYBjbVwZNVtjwvl3dBFYWdjqsUvEydxoCG2bw_wcB
     
  12. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,215

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Great and thanks, this looks like it will work just fine.
    I will order one asap.
     
  13. TA DAD
    Joined: Mar 2, 2014
    Posts: 501

    TA DAD
    Member
    from NC

    All the parts stores should have one in stock, don't be surprised if you break one, depending on how tight the pins are. They are a consumable.
     
  14. Those two gold colored "nut" are they threaded both internally and externally?
     
  15. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,215

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    I don't know yet until I get it apart, but somebody else may know more.
     
  16. I was thinking if they have to come out and they are threaded both inside and out. You could thread a bolt with a nut into it and lock the nut to the column side and then screw the whole mess out with the bolt head.
     
  17. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,215

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Yes, that was my 1st thought, but going by the replies and the GM diagram and the fact that there is a specific puller tool to remove them tells me the pins are only thread in the center of the pin is just for use with the puller tool.
     
    shawnsauto1 likes this.
  18. Oh ok I thought that the end nuts were the retainers for the pin and once the nuts were remover then you would use the puller tool to remove the pin. Oh well Good luck with it! :)
     
  19. TA DAD
    Joined: Mar 2, 2014
    Posts: 501

    TA DAD
    Member
    from NC

    They pull out and then tap them back in.
     
  20. krgdowdall
    Joined: Apr 3, 2015
    Posts: 108

    krgdowdall
    Member
    from Alberta

    The pins pull out. The tapped hole in the pin center is for the puller. Cant remember for sure but I think it is tapped 6-32 I used a socket slightly larger than the pin, a socket head cap screw (hardened steel ) and a flat washer for the puller. It came right out with not much pressure. It taps back in with a dead blow hammer on reassembly .
     
  21. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,215

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Well that is good to know.
    The threaded hole size and thread struck me as odd.
    I have most bolts sizes from 3/16" or 5mm upwards but not this small.
    No wonder folks say on here and in the tool reviews that the puller tool has broken during use.
    If I had the bold size, I too would have made my own puller gizmo.
     
  22. cjsavage
    Joined: Oct 28, 2011
    Posts: 58

    cjsavage
    Member
    from eastern nc

    I have used a slide hammer with the small screw. Have also used a screw and flat washer with a right angle pry bar. I like the idea of using a socket and washer with the screw.
     
  23. gatz
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,595

    gatz
    Member

    I found this article on GM tilt columns online.....definitely helped me on an off-topic column

    http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf

    If the Flaming River is similar to GMs, it shows just what to do.
    Make note of how the key-operated ignition switch rack & rod are arranged.
    And where the rod(s) go inside of the housing.

    IIRC, the threaded pivot pins were 10-32.
    I made a slide puller, using a diesel engine wrist pin for a weight. Not alot of mass, just enough.

    gatz
     
  24. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,215

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    What magnificent document.
    I have a Fiero tilt column so I will definitely keep a copy of this document for future trouble shooting needs.
    Gatz, thanks for sharing.
     
  25. greybeard360
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,813

    greybeard360
    Member

    The puller tool they make for those pins are not even across the base. There is a step cut into it to allow it to be square to the bolt as you extract the pin. If it isn't set square.... You break the bolt.

    Sent from my Moto G Play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  26. gatz
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,595

    gatz
    Member

    I looked at the puller I made.
    The threads that go into the pins on the GM column are 8-32
    Incidentally, I believe these columns are made by Saginaw.
    Buick, Chevy Malibu, and Jeep all are very similar.

    IMG_0646.JPG IMG_0649.JPG
     
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  27. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,215

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Nice work on the puller.
     
  28. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 9,480

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Sorry went to bed after posting and got up 4 hrs later to go to El Mirage. The HAMB came thru for you and that's all that matter's.
     
  29. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,215

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Well, now I have the whole darn thing apart, I can report that the sleeve/collar referred to in the pic with the RED arrow is actually a small tapered spring loaded retaining washer I guess you could call it.
    Easily removed and re-installed.
     
  30. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,215

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    You are sure darn right about that, I am over the moon with the helpful comments which has probably helped us all learn a little more about these units.
    All without a single snipper...
    I eventually found a correct threaded bolt at a suitable length for me to make my own puller tool out of junk.
    It is not pretty but it worked and was cheap...
    I may have been fortunate, but the two pivot rods eased out just nice, not too tight and should go back without too much trouble.
     

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