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TIG filler rod on frames

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ruralrod, Dec 30, 2004.

  1. ruralrod
    Joined: Dec 10, 2002
    Posts: 491

    ruralrod
    Member

    hey fellas,

    got me a TIG for xmas. so, i'm new to the method. what are ya using on frames and thangs? exhaust? crossmembers?
    Norco, local supplier, gave me a 1/16 1060 rod. they say pretty versatile. i found someone say ER80S-D2 is Nascar type regulation. is that ideal for us too?

    thanx again, rural
     
  2. ruralrod
    Joined: Dec 10, 2002
    Posts: 491

    ruralrod
    Member

    any thoughts fellas?

    i can't seem to find anybody's thoughts on TIG on the HAMB.

    anyhoo thanx, rural
     
  3. You need to be more patient. You need to wait more than 12 min.
     
  4. Nimrod
    Joined: Dec 13, 2003
    Posts: 856

    Nimrod
    Member

    The 1060 in various sizes should be fine. The other rod you mentioned I'm not familliar with. The one thing you don't want to do is use steel rod intended for gas welding, the copper coating on it is thicker and not intended for tig welding.
     

  5. Filler rod is relevant to what kind of steel your welding on. There is a hand book you should have if your not going to take any classes to learn how and what. You can't weld Alum. with steel rod and vice versa. Mild steel and chrome molly are just about that different when it comes to filler rod. Same with heat range and size and type of tungston.
    The Wizzard
     
  6. Nimrod
    Joined: Dec 13, 2003
    Posts: 856

    Nimrod
    Member

    And size of the rod is kind of a personal preference, but you should get yourself a variety because it will effect the welds. The bigger the rod the more it cools the puddle each time you dip the rod. I'd say something along the lines of a 3/32 rod is about right for frame work.
     
  7. caddydave
    Joined: Nov 12, 2002
    Posts: 192

    caddydave
    Member

    I would buy a pound or so of 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8" ER70S2 filler rod ( a good rod for 1018 steel) I'd also purchase 1/16, 3/32 and 1/8 tungsten's. There are books that are published that will tell you the recomended electrode and filler rod size for a specific material thickness. These recomendations will get you in the ball park. I'd start with these recomendations and practice LOTS before ever touching the frame with the TIG.

    Have you used a Tig before? How thick is the frame and the bits that you are welding to it? Do you have any Junior College's in the area that teach welding? I took a few classes where you are able to weld 3 hours a night 2 nights a week using their, fillers, gases, and electricity. It ends up being a pretty good deal. Have any pictures of what your working on. What kind and size of machine is it? With a little practice I think you will be very happy with your purchase. If I could have only one welder TIG would be it.
     
  8. ruralrod
    Joined: Dec 10, 2002
    Posts: 491

    ruralrod
    Member

    thanx fellas.

    keep learning me! i'll take all the info ya got.

    i'm going to the library today. pick me up a book or two and check out the hot librarian.
     
  9. ruralrod
    Joined: Dec 10, 2002
    Posts: 491

    ruralrod
    Member

    any more?

    it's snowing like a sumbitch and i'm just sittin on my kisser staring at the puter at work.

    going out tonite man!
     

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  10. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,574

    Roothawg
    Member

    Interesting post.......I hadn't thought about it much. I am still saving for my TIG.
     
  11. ruralrod
    Joined: Dec 10, 2002
    Posts: 491

    ruralrod
    Member

    they say the 1060 that is so "versatile" can be too rigid for frames. that's why they, nascar and Cart, suggest the ER70S-D2 and ER80S-D2 because of its "flexibility". those were the words out of the rep at Norco, supplier.

    still dumping snow.
     

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