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Throttle sticks only while running - 289 - edelbrock 1405

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lgh1157, Dec 26, 2011.

  1. lgh1157
    Joined: Sep 15, 2004
    Posts: 1,669

    lgh1157
    Member

    Here are the details :

    64 Galaxie - stock 289
    Lokar cable set up - with correct bracket and return spring with good tension
    Edelbrock 1405 - just rebuilt
    Timing set, idle correct, Vacuum reads 16-17 with a steady needle
    No vacuum leaks - have sprayed all around carb and intake
    Choke is not connected
    NO [ i repeat ] NO, linkage is binding at all, verified by friend standing watching car at idle, removed all linkage and checked and rechecked.
    Floats have been double checked for gap

    When the car is off the throttle arm springs back with no hesitation, acts completely normal, does not bind, does not have any play once back in place.

    When the car is running the throttle will stick and stay in place, i have to move it with my hand to reset it, if i open it alot it will stay open alot and rev like a mother fucker.

    I thought this could be a timing, distributor issue, i thought it could be a fuel thing, i even swapped springs out and adjusted the bracket for more tension.

    Has anyone had this issue ?

    I need help, thanks for reading

    L
     
  2. Does it stick when pedal cable/linkage is DIS-connected? Are throttle plates binding on manifold or spacer? Improper gasket at carb? Loose throttle plate?
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2011
  3. brad chevy
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    brad chevy
    Member

    A picture of your setup would help alot.
     
  4. lgh1157
    Joined: Sep 15, 2004
    Posts: 1,669

    lgh1157
    Member

    I didn't remove the linkage altogether because it doesn't even bind when the car is not running

    I did wonder about the gasket or something binding but the smooth return with the car off really confuses me.

    I did read something online about worn throttle shaft bushings, which is the closest i have come to finding some that sounds close
     

  5. toadyoty
    Joined: Dec 5, 2011
    Posts: 20

    toadyoty
    Member
    from Warm Beach

    Replace the oxygen sensor. Just kidding. I would suspect the throttle cable. Un-hook it and see if it sticks.
     
  6. lgh1157
    Joined: Sep 15, 2004
    Posts: 1,669

    lgh1157
    Member

    Here it is, not a great pic but you get the idea:


    [​IMG]
     
  7. Part of your problem is that it's an Edelcrock carb.
     
  8. Years ago I had the exact same problem and it turned to be a worn throttle shaft.Apparently when the engine vacuum was pulling air in around the shaft and moving it just enough to cause the throttle plates to bind against the throttle bores.

     
  9. lgh1157
    Joined: Sep 15, 2004
    Posts: 1,669

    lgh1157
    Member

    Moose - Is there a repair for this ?

    Or is it a new carb ?

    It seems strange that this would happen after a rebuild, im wondering if cleaning it may have pull out some of the grease/gunk/whatever that was keeping it working

    Oh - i forgot to add, this was not happening prior to rebuild

    Thanks for your reply

    L
     
  10. did it stick before the carb was rebuilt? theres nothing wrong with an edelbrock

    the only thing i see from your pic is on my 3 edelbrocks i have the throttle springs pulling forward instead of toward the rear ive never had one stick on me
     
  11. You could replace the shaft if its worn or if you have the equipment you could fabricate some bushings.It's probably easier in the long run to replace the carb.
     
  12. 60galaxieJJ
    Joined: Dec 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,525

    60galaxieJJ
    Member

    I love how the lokar metal piece looks like a coffin with the problem your having. Best of luck
     
  13. lgh1157
    Joined: Sep 15, 2004
    Posts: 1,669

    lgh1157
    Member

    ^ Oh thats plastic, a small plastic coffin

    ^ i thought about adding another spring on the front , but that doesn't solve the issue. I dont wanna run into problems down the road [ pun intended ] :D
     
  14. RUSTALOT
    Joined: Jul 17, 2009
    Posts: 199

    RUSTALOT
    Member
    from GA.

    Check the acelerator pump make sure the springs inside are installed/ working correctly. Took mine apart and that where my problem was. May not be yours but it worked for me.
     
  15. lgh1157
    Joined: Sep 15, 2004
    Posts: 1,669

    lgh1157
    Member

    ^ i did think of that, i checked when i looked at my floats

    L
     
  16. Moose explained it perfectly,
    Did you pull the throttle shaft or butterflies for your rebuild?
    Might have them on just a little off.

    I bought a Harley dirt cheap that wouldn't run correctly after several carb rebuilds. Butterfly in goofy on wallered out holes.
     
  17. brad chevy
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    brad chevy
    Member

    In the pic it looks like you have the accelerater pump linkage in the wrong hole,even looks like it makes contact with the air cleaner, Drop the linkage rod down to the lower hole and see if it takes out the bind. You can see on the tab where it is making contact with the rod. I agree about the return spring, it needs to be located on the front. You said you rebuilt the carb,was the inside cleaned up better than the outside ?
     
  18. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,272

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    The fact that it only acts up while the engine is running is puzzling. You need to look at carb systems that use vacuum or airflow.

    I would guess that you have a problem with the counter-weighted air valves in the secondary circuit. Maybe they are stuck (if that's even possible) causing a linkage problem

    Was this problem there before the carb was rebuilt?
     
  19. shinysideup
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,627

    shinysideup
    BANNED
    from ruskin, fl

    At closed i dont see much tension left on the springs. You need a little more tension.
     
  20. lgh1157
    Joined: Sep 15, 2004
    Posts: 1,669

    lgh1157
    Member

    No, previous to the rebuild it was fine - one thing to note though - the P.O had disengaged the secondary linkage, i hooked it back and noticed it was binding, it does not operate smoothly, it will not open the secondaries correctly, so, . . . i disconnected it back to the way it was, . . . . . writing all this really makes me think about just buying another carb, . . . . . . .

    I tried all 3 holes, hahah the inside looks new, i soaked and cleaned the shit outta it.

    No
     
  21. Did you just install that chrome double return spring? or was it on before?

    I've installed a set once onto my carb (stock 2V on a 302 sbf) and had the same problem.The springs didn't maintain consistent tension. It kept losing it every time I would step on the pedal. The cheap chrome plated spring was crap.

    I replaced them with a pair of stock(non chrome) return springs. No more high idle.

    Frank
     
  22. lgh1157
    Joined: Sep 15, 2004
    Posts: 1,669

    lgh1157
    Member

    ^ i swapped out the springs once already, i may try that again.

    I know the pressure is alot different when the car is running. I will try this tomorrow

    L
     
  23. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,272

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    or find a local carb guy that knows AFB's. Might be a simple fix
     
  24. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 48,340

    squirrel
    Member

    Sounds like the "buy another carb" idea might be the way to go.
     
  25. burnout2614
    Joined: Sep 21, 2009
    Posts: 612

    burnout2614
    Member

    The problems I have had w those 1405's is the secondary shaft "pulling air" at idle. Usually makes it difficult to adjust air/fuel mix. The one I run now has secondary linkage issues at the most inopportune times........sitting at red lights etc. peace
     
  26. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 8,826

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    Compare your picture to mine which is working just great,notice the tension on the large spring and where it is attached?
     

    Attached Files:

  27. Ok so my question is...........When you disconnected the choke (I recomend you reconnect it), did you wire it open? What I think is happening is when the car is running vacuum is sucking the butterfly for the choke closed turning the choke cam and setting the throttle at high idle. The minute the car is off the vacuum isnt present and the counter weight on the choke cam opens the butterfly giving the throttle full movement. Hope this helps.....ETHER
     
  28. lucky 777
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 13

    lucky 777
    Member

    Your air breather housing wouldn't be touching your accelerator pump ?
     
  29. lgh1157
    Joined: Sep 15, 2004
    Posts: 1,669

    lgh1157
    Member

    ^ thianks for the pic, this is the next thing i will try

    Even at idle it does this, the choke does not move at all

    No
     
  30. Barrow a carb . try it that will tell you what direction the trouble is.
     

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