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Thoughts on using anti-seize on lug studs

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BONNEVILLE BOB 95, Aug 30, 2010.

  1. hotrod_32
    Joined: Mar 8, 2006
    Posts: 496

    hotrod_32
    Member

    Use it on all my stuff !
     
  2. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 7,154

    BJR
    Member

    I have even used it on the big center hole of mag wheels to keep the wheel from sticking on the axle.
     
  3. Offy 220
    Joined: Sep 29, 2009
    Posts: 255

    Offy 220
    Member

    Travis,

    I have heard the same regarding over-the-road trucks - illegal in some or all states. We use Yard Hustlers in the Port which have 11R22.5 tire/wheel assemblies [same as some on-highway trucks]. Usually we use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads and also around the hub. We change tires so often because of flats or problems with recaps-we have noticed the lugs and threads last longer because of the lubricant.

    Offy 220
     
  4. BronxMopars1
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 890

    BronxMopars1
    Member
    from Bronx, NYC

    To me its like Franks Red Hot! I Put That shit on Everything!
     
  5. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,426

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    always..
    just a real thin coat..a little dab will do ya.

    nothing worse than galling up a stud or 2
     
  6. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,110

    pitman

    The never, or anti-seize will prevent corrosion from locking up the threads. The point Diavolo makes about over torquing matters as well. There may be a proper torque value, for a lubed fastener/lug. Once it's tensed, it ain't gonna unwind.
     
  7. Offy 220
    Joined: Sep 29, 2009
    Posts: 255

    Offy 220
    Member

    Yep, same here - I'm guilty. :)
     
  8. moter
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,137

    moter
    Member

  9. RidgeRunner
    Joined: Feb 9, 2007
    Posts: 906

    RidgeRunner
    Member
    from Western MA

    Light dab on the studs and thin coat between aluminum wheels and rotors/drums for over 30 years. A lot easier to work on next time around, havent had a wheel fall off yet, keeps the road salt locktite at bay.

    Ed
     
  10. rusty76
    Joined: Jun 8, 2009
    Posts: 882

    rusty76
    Member
    from Midway NC

    Wished some idiot had use the stuff on my exhaust. What a bear.
     
  11. Diavolo
    Joined: Apr 1, 2009
    Posts: 819

    Diavolo
    Member

  12. scrubba
    Joined: Jul 20, 2010
    Posts: 938

    scrubba
    Member

    Folks , I've been using Permatex branded anti- seize for years . Here in the East, Rust and of course being an hour from the Atlantic means R U S T ! Aluminum and steel just don't mix. hey, too many a time I have saved whats left of my spine on account of my using anti- seize .............. scrubba
     
  13. truckdog62563
    Joined: Dec 18, 2007
    Posts: 65

    truckdog62563
    Member

    Personal testimonials like you guys are giving are useless IMHO. The manufacturers recommend dry torque. Here's a Budd chart that gives torque spec's, and you'll find similar in the Accuride on-line catalog. Plus, here's a Fleet Owner magazine article explaining why you don't use never seize. Stu

    http://fleetowner.com/equipment/tiretracks/fleet_debunking_myth/

    [​IMG]
     
  14. mramc1
    Joined: May 26, 2006
    Posts: 418

    mramc1
    Member

    <<<
     
  15. Special Ed
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 6,991

    Special Ed
    Member

    I find it interesting that "manufacturer's recommendations" are mentioned. This is a hot rod and custom forum. I doubt much, if anything we do to our rides would meet any manufacturer's specs...
    I'll accept most "real-life" solutions with a bit of skepticism and caution, but too often we disregard actual experience as bogus.
     
  16. truckdog62563
    Joined: Dec 18, 2007
    Posts: 65

    truckdog62563
    Member

    Do you torque rod bolts to "manufacturer's recommendations"? I'm sure so. Why is that different? Stretched overtorqued studs are a problem no matter where they are. Stu
     
  17. mustangsix
    Joined: Mar 7, 2005
    Posts: 1,297

    mustangsix
    Member

    When I was in the Army we changed a LOT of truck tires. It wasn't an occasional task; it was damn near an everyday occurrence.

    A 5-ton truck has a lot of lug nuts and using some sort of grease or antisieze sure made it easier the next time around.
     
  18. moter
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,137

    moter
    Member

    It works really well...especially when we get a northern car ..or one that lives near the beach.
     
  19. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,719

    junk yard kid
    Member

    Dam it its roo early to learn something new today, the rest of the day is a waste. I always thought this was a bad idea, im wrong.
     
  20. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,110

    pitman

    In the Mini coil heater video, there's shown a use I would not try. That's where the head and upper shank of the bolt are heated, then torqued to loosen. Imagine if it were softened upon heating. They chose to depict it changing the color of the steel, implying high heat. To loosen a nut it should work fine.
     
  21. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    I use anti-seize on aluminum wheels. I've had experiences of both lugs and whole wheel hubs being frozen in place from dissimilar metal corrosion. A friend recently had to grind off a lug bolt head to get a wheel off. After the wheel was off he found that the lug bolt itself turned freely in the hub threads. The head of the lug bolt was stuck to the wheel itself, not the threads.
     
  22. I first used anti seize when working on Plastic Injection Molding machines 30 years ago. Screw threads in those 400-500 degree barrels could seize right up over time. It was a must in high heat applications.

    Been using on lugs, spark plugs (in aluminum heads), and almost anytime I have a fastener of one type of metal threading into another type (ie. steel into aluminum.

    Also prevents thread gauling of stainless fasteners.
     
  23. Gigantor
    Joined: Jul 12, 2006
    Posts: 3,825

    Gigantor
    Member

    Use it religiously.
     
  24. I hate trying to get lugnuts off that haven't been anti-seized. I always use it. Always.
     
  25. onedge
    Joined: May 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,000

    onedge
    Member

    interesting thread. I havent used it on lug studs ever. but I havent had the trouble some of you have explained either. I'm staying with dry and proper torque by hand.
    good luck.
     
  26. papaford60
    Joined: Feb 13, 2011
    Posts: 39

    papaford60
    Member
    from illinois

    use it every time, as stated before, be sparing as it's a bear to clean off the rims
     
  27. Funny thing is, I clicked on this link thinking, Boy is this guy going to get it! I did not think so many people used never-seize on lug nuts. I use it on my boat trailer but that goes under salt water. lugs never come loose. Never used it on any cars or pick-ups, but I may start.
     
  28. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,114

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    never heard of such a thing. I am always the last to know.

    I do torque my nuts though.

    the only place I use it is on spark plugs in aluminum heads. learnt that one the hard way when I broke a plug and a little piece fell into the cylinder. $800.00 later I was back on the road. (had the head rebuilt, and I changed out the water pump, radiator, belts and hoses while I had it off
     
  29. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 2,710

    RodStRace
    Member

    Don't use it on steel lugs/wheels/studs.
    Do use it on aluminum wheels and chrome lug nuts. Those darn lug nuts will ginch up on the studs without it.
     

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