The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BONNEVILLE BOB 95, Aug 30, 2010.
Use it on all my stuff !
I have even used it on the big center hole of mag wheels to keep the wheel from sticking on the axle.
I have heard the same regarding over-the-road trucks - illegal in some or all states. We use Yard Hustlers in the Port which have 11R22.5 tire/wheel assemblies [same as some on-highway trucks]. Usually we use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads and also around the hub. We change tires so often because of flats or problems with recaps-we have noticed the lugs and threads last longer because of the lubricant.
To me its like Franks Red Hot! I Put That shit on Everything!
just a real thin coat..a little dab will do ya.
nothing worse than galling up a stud or 2
The never, or anti-seize will prevent corrosion from locking up the threads. The point Diavolo makes about over torquing matters as well. There may be a proper torque value, for a lubed fastener/lug. Once it's tensed, it ain't gonna unwind.
Yep, same here - I'm guilty.
I have used never seize on studs for a long time. When i get one that is frozen...i grb this
Light dab on the studs and thin coat between aluminum wheels and rotors/drums for over 30 years. A lot easier to work on next time around, havent had a wheel fall off yet, keeps the road salt locktite at bay.
Wished some idiot had use the stuff on my exhaust. What a bear.
That is COOL!
Folks , I've been using Permatex branded anti- seize for years . Here in the East, Rust and of course being an hour from the Atlantic means R U S T ! Aluminum and steel just don't mix. hey, too many a time I have saved whats left of my spine on account of my using anti- seize .............. scrubba
Personal testimonials like you guys are giving are useless IMHO. The manufacturers recommend dry torque. Here's a Budd chart that gives torque spec's, and you'll find similar in the Accuride on-line catalog. Plus, here's a Fleet Owner magazine article explaining why you don't use never seize. Stu
I find it interesting that "manufacturer's recommendations" are mentioned. This is a hot rod and custom forum. I doubt much, if anything we do to our rides would meet any manufacturer's specs...
I'll accept most "real-life" solutions with a bit of skepticism and caution, but too often we disregard actual experience as bogus.
same question, different forum of engineers
Do you torque rod bolts to "manufacturer's recommendations"? I'm sure so. Why is that different? Stretched overtorqued studs are a problem no matter where they are. Stu
When I was in the Army we changed a LOT of truck tires. It wasn't an occasional task; it was damn near an everyday occurrence.
A 5-ton truck has a lot of lug nuts and using some sort of grease or antisieze sure made it easier the next time around.
It works really well...especially when we get a northern car ..or one that lives near the beach.
Dam it its roo early to learn something new today, the rest of the day is a waste. I always thought this was a bad idea, im wrong.
In the Mini coil heater video, there's shown a use I would not try. That's where the head and upper shank of the bolt are heated, then torqued to loosen. Imagine if it were softened upon heating. They chose to depict it changing the color of the steel, implying high heat. To loosen a nut it should work fine.
I use anti-seize on aluminum wheels. I've had experiences of both lugs and whole wheel hubs being frozen in place from dissimilar metal corrosion. A friend recently had to grind off a lug bolt head to get a wheel off. After the wheel was off he found that the lug bolt itself turned freely in the hub threads. The head of the lug bolt was stuck to the wheel itself, not the threads.
I first used anti seize when working on Plastic Injection Molding machines 30 years ago. Screw threads in those 400-500 degree barrels could seize right up over time. It was a must in high heat applications.
Been using on lugs, spark plugs (in aluminum heads), and almost anytime I have a fastener of one type of metal threading into another type (ie. steel into aluminum.
Also prevents thread gauling of stainless fasteners.
Use it religiously.
I hate trying to get lugnuts off that haven't been anti-seized. I always use it. Always.
interesting thread. I havent used it on lug studs ever. but I havent had the trouble some of you have explained either. I'm staying with dry and proper torque by hand.
use it every time, as stated before, be sparing as it's a bear to clean off the rims
Funny thing is, I clicked on this link thinking, Boy is this guy going to get it! I did not think so many people used never-seize on lug nuts. I use it on my boat trailer but that goes under salt water. lugs never come loose. Never used it on any cars or pick-ups, but I may start.
never heard of such a thing. I am always the last to know.
I do torque my nuts though.
the only place I use it is on spark plugs in aluminum heads. learnt that one the hard way when I broke a plug and a little piece fell into the cylinder. $800.00 later I was back on the road. (had the head rebuilt, and I changed out the water pump, radiator, belts and hoses while I had it off
Don't use it on steel lugs/wheels/studs.
Do use it on aluminum wheels and chrome lug nuts. Those darn lug nuts will ginch up on the studs without it.
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