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Technical Thoughts on splitting a cast manifold and ways of doing it.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hudson52sam, Oct 19, 2015.

  1. Hudson52sam
    Joined: Oct 3, 2015
    Posts: 69

    Hudson52sam

    I want to run duals out the back of my 52 hudson wasp 262 6 cylinder, I think its Fenton that sells them ,if you get the Fenton s you would still have to block off the bottom of the carb , right? Or would you be better off to make your own headers?
    Otherwise there's a video here where the guy splits the manifold by welding a plate inside and a extra outlet on the bottom.
    Or I could run a Y pipe at the front but , I think it would not sound the same, any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Would I better to run a H pipe or X pipe or just leave it straight?

     

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    Last edited: Oct 19, 2015
  2. Hudson52sam
    Joined: Oct 3, 2015
    Posts: 69

    Hudson52sam

    H pipe and x pipe
     

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  3. Hudson52sam
    Joined: Oct 3, 2015
    Posts: 69

    Hudson52sam

    Frankvintagefullflowcom

    "Splitting" of the Chev (or whatever) manifold shown in the video is far simpler than doing so on a Hudson 232-262-308 engine unless you are OK with a 2/4 split. I have done both......once with a 3/3 split (a real project, I might add), just for the hell of it and once because the original manifold had suffered a crack that nearly split the manifold by itself between the #4 and #5 port....a common point I'm sure. Photos show some of the work to create a 2/4 split.

    The fun part was reversing the sweep of the #5 port toward the rear instead of forward as is the original flow path. The #6 was also modified (not shown) to direct exhaust flow out of the new outlet (also not shown......yet).
     

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  4. Hudson52sam
    Joined: Oct 3, 2015
    Posts: 69

    Hudson52sam

    627) Bad shot but sorta shows the separation of front/rear halves.

    631, 632) Not many progress shots but this is the result. If I had it to do over again, (I guess I could) I'd put the outlet at the rear corner and reshape the manifold passages so they sweep rearward as in the other (2/4) version. There's a curved baffle inside to direct flow from #6 down and out the outlet as it comes forward on this one.

    Not very practical, I'd agree, since it's so time consuming. I could create a better set and see what it would take to have "my" casting company (the one that casts the VFF adapters for me) do them in C/I. Steel tube headers don't have a connection to the intake (as with a stock set-up) so it would be much less complicated to make that type, similar to the Fenton iron headers for other makes.......something tot think about.
     

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