Projects They call me Panelman.....1956 Chevy Panel Truck

Starting to get hot and I don't like it. I had 2 ideas for the clutch return spring set-up, 1 was to make a V out of bar stock and spacers. Bolt it up using 2 bolts on the oil pan and extending a little past the exhaust pipe, but I was thinking I can't tighten it down tight because of the oil pan gasket and I didn't want it to leak. So I went with plan B, a long bolt in place of the stock lower steering box bolt, cinch the box back down and use the end for the spring.


Here's the overthinking part, I didn't know if the bolt would bend after time since the bolt was long (8")......So plan C came in. I shaved down the threads on some of the bolt, made it just fit inside some bar stock, threaded about 1.25" of the inside of the bar stock, drilled out a nut, welded it to the outside of the bar and welded a washer at the end.

Put it on the truck, tightened the tube down onto the nut holding the steering box to the frame and made the aftermarket spring fit.

I tried using a smaller spring on the pedal arm but the way the linkage has a hoop, it just pulled the linkage back and not the clutch arm. When I pushed on the clutch, the linkage had to find it's notch and would clunk, I though it might pop off or get stuck at an angle. So the spring had to be on the clutch arm like it was from the factory.


The first idea would have looked better, but this one is stronger and no chance of an oil leak.


Tomorrow is going to be the speedo swap and wire shortening.

 

Very Slick setup!

curious why you abandoned original setup, I might have missed it in previous posts.

 

It didn’t have a spring when I got it, factory books showed it going to the same bracket as the spring for the carb linkage....only problem is the second pipe is in the way. This way as long as I have a 6cyl any split manifold will work.

 

Ah ok, mine has a little tab attached between the pan bolt and the pan. I don’t know if that is because of the v8 or because it came from an impala. I always thought it was factory but who know what happened over the years. I really like you setup.

 

Yours looks like it's stock, tab on the pan and the little hook that attaches to the spring. Mine was supposed to look like that also, if you look in the bottom side pic you can see the carb spring and tab on the oil pan in the background.

 

Took apart the speedo to replace it with the newly painted and oiled parts........I couldn't do it. The speedo had a tag on it from an old speedo shop in L.A, had a date stamp on the housing and was clean on the inside.....it HAD to stay with the truck. I cleaned (dusted) everything inside, cleaned the plastic with plastic polish, pulled the cup out, oiled the speedo head and put a super small dab of grease on the odometer gear.




Feb 22 1956

 

This what I'm talking about, history around So Cal. I'm going to say that phone number is maybe late 50's to mid 60's?.

Here's the Speedo shop building now.


Here's the old Motel next to it.....Sunset Pacific.....it's sad.



Gotta love the internet....
Sullivan Speedometer Service & Auto Air - auto electric shop/speedometer repair from at least 1957 through 1969.
Building and vacant hotel were constructed in 1952 and 1964 and have remained relatively unchanged.

Around the immediate area was Fred Cora Brassiere Mfr (1942-1951), Neo Lea Brassiere (1967-1971) and auto-repairing in 1919 and as a dry cleaning facility from 1957-1969.

 

The speedo is smooth as silk now. I need to cut off the brackets underneath from the old push bumper. I also have all the weatherstripping to replace the vent/side windows, but I have to find other ones to put in it's place as I can't have the side glass out while it's on the street (for days). I really want to start working on the A again.

 

Brackets cut off, I have the bigger (larger diameter) tie rod cross bar to put on next week....My stock bar has a bow to it.

I'm back to work full time, so progress might slow down a little.

 

Nice progress!

Are you upgrading the tie rod ends as well? If so I can give you a measurement.

 

I'm going to check them, I have some cups but not the ball/stud. If they're worn I have to find more.

 

Here's the way I got it, everytime I went under the front end I would whack my head.......they had to go. Remnants of the homemade brush guard.

 

: ) I have a hook on my passenger side front like that. My head is dented from all the times I hit it

 

I think I forgot to post this info early on......not sure if it's common knowledge. My truck leaks a little and I like to use urethane instead of rubber where it gets oily. I used Energy Suspension trans mounts (bellhousing mounts), from a 70's/80's 4x4 (or 1 ton) Chevy truck, fit's great and not hurt by oil. I bought mine off eBay from a person that didn't use them for $40.


3.1106G

 

I'm getting some old (nors) USA made Moog or TRW ends just in case. What measurement did you set yours up at?.

 

Nice! I’ll check tomorrow

 

Hey Panelman,

I got 51-5/8 center to center on the tie-rod end balls.

Not sure if your tie-rod ends are the same size but I measured 43” worth of tie-rod exposed.

 

Thanks, I'm also going to check the toe after I'm done. I was going to check it before to get a base, but with the slight bend it might not be spot on.

 

I measured my axle and the replacement and took an average. Before my truck wandered a bit and it is pretty straight now. I don’t know if that is because I completely rebuilt everything, because I went to radials from trailer tires or because I went from 5-1/2” of rubber on the ground to 7” rubber on the ground.

 

I've went with caster shims on both my straight axle panels (the sold '54 Ford and the present '56 Chevy) and that helped a lot. Both were stock suspension, the '54 Ford had a Toyota power steering conversion by the p.o and the '56 has stock worn steering. I picked up a toe gauge years ago, but have used the 2 tape measure and 2 2x4 technique for years before that.

 

Time to look at the front motor mount. Been trying to find out what mount it looks like just by pics, I would like to find urethane replacement, but if the stock mount fits then I'll use it. To me it looks like a 40's Pontiac mount that's in it now and I have the whole stock clam shell mount to put in....it's a '54 261 in a '56 truck so funky stuff has made it fit.

Going to go take some measurements.

The mount now:

 

That's a nice Panel, Dan...

 

Thanks Bob, congrats on the coupe.

 

Of course the holes in the crossmember aren't the same as a stock '54 truck mount. I wanted to start back on the '28 .....maybe Sunday.




I did get some more yard art though................I'm lucky I have a fence blocking the front of my house as I don't think the neighbors would get it.

Someone gave me this, it's pretty dead from being outside for years. On my porch it's out of the weather and 95% of the sun (last 20 min as it goes down).



Found these old labels inside.

 

I seen this 55 the other day and like yours it has no taillights in the quarters, I still find that odd because up until I seen yours I never knew they were available like that.

 

I rarely see them here, I think even if it came that way from the factory a lot of people put them in anyway later for safety or aesthetics. Funny part is someone (or company) didn't want to pay extra for the stock lights but were ok with buying aftermarket, drilling the truck and wiring them up.


I like the one you have pictured, it's natures monochrome.

The back doors look clean, the 2 major parts on the panels that command the most $$ is the rear doors and the stock bucket seat(s). Around here I see people asking $1000-$1500 for clean rear doors and about the same IF you can find 2 seats.

 

I agree about the adding of all the extra lights, it is funny, this panel only has the drive's seat, the passenger is MIA. If it wasn't down in Texas I would consider picking it up and selling my 57 pickup, the lower body even looks good on it.

 

WOW, that thing is clean. A lot of times you see windows cut into the sides, mine is bad enough with the holes in the roof.
Panels only came with the drivers bucket, you could get a passenger seat for extra money and it has a different seat track then the drivers. The seat would flip forward to gain access to the back, my passenger seat is wrong it's a drivers seat bolted to the floor.

I've never seen one in person, just in pics.

 

My dad had a seat like that in his 49 panel, folds twice, once for the back then the second the seat was standing on end close to the dash.

 

Well stumbled across the holy grail of transmissions for me at least. I found a Saginaw 3spd o/d for $250.....now I can have a syncho'd first gear and still have the old pull cable o/d. These things are HARD to find around here and go for good money but are a slow sell as most people go to an automatic or T5. My '64 had one but I couldn't take it out before I sold it.



Tomorrow I'm going to look at some more parts or spares. Vent windows, steering column and whatever else he might have. I like to rebuild the stuff while the truck is still driving, so downtime is minimal and it's parked on the street (sitting without side glass can't happen).