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Projects The Wee Terry Coupe Build Thread

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Little Terry, Aug 11, 2020.

  1. Have you considered a Model A?
     
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  2. getow
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 296

    getow
    Member

    Sorry i wasnt clear. Motor is a 8ba.
     
  3. getow
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 296

    getow
    Member

    Sorry I wasnt clear. Motor is a 8ba.
     
  4. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 517

    Little Terry
    Member

    I’ve got one of the aftermarket aluminium ones that is a poor fit in the shell. I plan to spray the rad black and fit some stainless mesh over the front of it to hide it a bit. Then maybe one day I will invest in something better.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  5. getow
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 296

    getow
    Member

    Thanks for da pics. Thats the way mine fit in the 31 shell. Thats why i pinched the bottom, but really didnt want todo it with the 28 shell. There really dont seem tobe a good fitting after market aluminum rad out there, i guess. For either grill shell for that matter. Im not a rocket scientist, but i think if that was my gig, id at least design 1 to fit the shell better. Ha...If i run accross something decent, ill let cha know.
     
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  6. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,012

    Aaron D.
    Member

    Jamco parts in Cypress Ca. can make you a radiator for your 28/29 with the 8BA.
     
  7. getow
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 296

    getow
    Member

    You have any experience with em? I just took a look at da website. Some stuff aint priced to bad. Radiators listed, as all out there, weren't cheap. Didnt see any custom/specific made ones for my application tho.
     
  8. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,012

    Aaron D.
    Member

    Yes, I had them make me a radiator for a 28/29 Coupe with 32 grill shell and an 8BA. They built it to my specs for around $600. Fits and works great. Money well spent for me.
     
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  9. getow
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 296

    getow
    Member

    Awesome i appreciate da heads up. Thanks
     
  10. I’m also using aluminum radiator (on a tight budget) in a ‘28 shell this is how I covered the opening IMG_0398.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  11. getow
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 296

    getow
    Member

    Any progress? Havent got any updates. Hope all is well.
     
  12. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 517

    Little Terry
    Member

    All ok thanks. Minimal progress really - certainly not enough to warrant pictures!
    It's cold and wet and dark here in the evenings, so I have been avoiding the workshop a bit (what a wimp, eh!)
    I have two young daughters who are getting excited about Christmas, so I have been spending more time with them at the weekends, hanging decorations and such. Also we have a small house extension underway, which is causing some distraction frmo my normal routine - normal service will resume soon. The pile of parts keeps on growing!
    Thanks for your interest and keep checking in.
    LT
     
  13. getow
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 296

    getow
    Member

    Good to hear. I thought maybe da kiddos finished your hotrod after seeing da pic of em wreching. Lol. Happy holidays and keep collecting bits and pieces.
     
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  14. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 517

    Little Terry
    Member

    So, nothing too exciting, but I have my adaptor made for the shortened drive shaft.
    [​IMG]
    The next thing I need to figure out is how much to remove from the drive shaft - do I push the UJ as far forward as it will go, or just give it an inch or so engagement on the rear of the gearbox? There is plenty of room for movement in my adaptor, but once it’s welded in place, that’s it!
    Then I need to adjust the length of the torque tube and weld it to the rear flange.
    Cheers
    Mark
     
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  15. getow
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 296

    getow
    Member

    Well im sure all da professionals will chime in with a more accurate account of the exact percedure. But im actually working on my project as we speak also. And not as traditional as your or everyone likes, unfortunately. But so be it. Im using an 8ba, t5 trans, 47 banjo. So open shaft obviously. I just talked to Driveline Service located in da Lawrenceville section of Pittsburgh, anywho, they said for me to bottom my slipyoke in da trans, pull it out apr. ¾ of an inch, and measure center of ujoint to center of ujoint. Not sure if this would somehow relate to your application being a closed setup or not, but thats all i got for ya. Well if ya dont find an appropriate procedure, i do have my torque tube setup from a 47 ford that maybe i can see some marks or wear patterns on the slip shaft and get a measurement if thats helps? Let me know.
     
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  16. redoxide
    Joined: Jul 7, 2002
    Posts: 624

    redoxide
    Member
    from Scotland

    Mark, there are groves in the front of the driveshaft for a spring clip that stops the spedo gear shifting.

    If you assemble the front of the druve shaft, viz, bearing, washer, gear and clip the drive shaft protruding from the front of the torque tube will be where it needs to be and will slide into the UJ yolk the proper distance .. all you need to work out from there is the final length of the drive shaft and how much to remove from the back .. and how much to remove from the torque tube .

    for the torque tube i cut the back end off leaving around 4 to 5 inches of tube attached to the mounting flange. set that to one side and assemble the front section of the TT to the gearbox, secure it with the cup and collars . set it in line with the rear end , measure the distance from the axle mount face back the same ammount as you left on the back section of the TT eg 5 inches ,, Mark the TT and chop off what you dont need . line it all up ( I use a couple of short lengths of heavy angle, one on each side secured with big jubilee clips ) then tack the rear section on.. check a few times tweek where required and welder up..

    now you have that done , remove the TT get a reference measurement from the axle flange to the front pin hole in the pinion spline ( fit the spline adapter to the pinion and drop a pin in temporarily to hold the adapter in situ. ) The forward hole furthest from the axle face is your reference .

    measure the depth available in the adapter from the open end, to the axle pinion shaft. From memory its around 2 1/2 inches .. Now measure how much of the drive shaft protrudes from the back of the TT using the mount flange as your reference. work out from there how much shaft you need to seat inside the coupler and chop off what you dont need .. its harder to explain it than it is to do it lol..
     
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  17. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 517

    Little Terry
    Member

    At last a tiny bit of progress on the coupe…
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Mark
     
  18. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 517

    Little Terry
    Member

    Another update. Hopefully the motor can stay in place from here.

    [​IMG]

    The fuel tank has taken quite a bit to get it into a useable condition, but is just about ready now.

    [​IMG]
     
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  19. Just checking in on the progress. Looking good.
     
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  20. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 1,101

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    any luck remembering who/where?
     
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  21. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 517

    Little Terry
    Member

    I am just about to sort out shortening the drive shaft, but have a question....
    I will be welding the adaptor to the rear of the drive shaft and pinning it to the rear axle pinion, so it will be unable to move.
    The front UJ that i removed from the gearbox had a bolt through the centre, fixing it to the output shaft.
    Surely there needs to be some 'slide' on the driveshaft to allow for movement? Do i just leave the bolt out of the tranny output shaft? Or is it ok to solid mount the drive shaft at both ends?
    Thanks
    Mark
     
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  22. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 1,222

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    Because of the torque tube there is no 'slip' needed, it simply pivots from the front & has nowhere to go. Except in an arc.
    If that makes sense?
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2021
  23. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 517

    Little Terry
    Member

    Thanks, yes it seems obvious now that you have said that. I appreciate your help.
     
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  24. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 1,222

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    all good!
    the thing that interests me is only having 1 uni-joint... which doesn't seem to be noticed when driving, maybe because the angle isn't too savage?
     
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  25. redoxide
    Joined: Jul 7, 2002
    Posts: 624

    redoxide
    Member
    from Scotland

    mark The bolt needs to secure the UJ to the output of the gearbox.

    The shaft will slide in the UJ as it moves in an ark , It wont be a huge distance but it will move .if you can get your finger between the end of the prop shaft and the bolt then you willhave plenty travel . You dont want the end of the shaft to bottom out on the head of the bolt but you do need it to slide in the UJ spline.
     
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  26. 57tailgater
    Joined: Nov 22, 2008
    Posts: 732

    57tailgater
    Member
    from Georgia

    Cool build. Where are those air cleaners from?
     
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  27. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 517

    Little Terry
    Member

    Thanks. The air cleaners are Grace&Co items.
     
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  28. 57tailgater
    Joined: Nov 22, 2008
    Posts: 732

    57tailgater
    Member
    from Georgia

    Thanks.
     
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  29. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 517

    Little Terry
    Member

    A job I have been putting off for fear of getting it wrong is shortening the drive shaft and tube. Now done. It looks ok so hopefully it will function as it should.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2021 at 11:48 AM
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