The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tomkelly88, Oct 29, 2012.
Well you shouldn't, you Tudor looks fantastic!
Actually feels like I did something today, although now I look back I guess I'm working slowly compared to some of you guys!
Wiring removed, what a nightmare! And as sick as it is I'm looking forward to rebuilding this mess!
Removed the steering column and the chassis mount. Had a bit of trouble getting to a couple of rivets but it worked out in the end.
And now the best part, the left hand dash is out and the right one is in but just loosely mounted!
I'm excited but it is a shame I won't be looking over the original, its nicely worn and actually looks loved after its 75 years.
The new one is a little rough with a ton of extra holes (some cut some rusted!) nothing I can't handle but I'm always on the lookout for a better example.
Had to cut the exhaust out too, all the joints were rusted solid. I was already planning for an all new setup so it doesn't bother me a great deal.
Also cleaned up all the extra rubbish and crap that came out of the car, one overflowing wheelbarrow so far!
Here's a pix from my grandson's wedding last year, in front of my buddy's '40 conv.
I always wanted a 36 or 40 coupe until one day at the donut shop I saw the two parked side by side. From then on it was 40 only. You made a good choice, love it and have fun.
Tackled the steering box mount today. I haven't managed to track down a correct RHD pressed mount so I decided to make my own.
I hunted around in our steel stores scrap pile for an hour and a half in and out of the miserable wind and rain but I found the pieces I needed. They're a little tarnished but will clean up OK once I'm done.
Had to mimic the taper of the frame rail and offset the mount to line up into the cabin at the correct angle. I'm glad I had the left hand mount to copy from! It will just be a bolt in piece as I don't know how and probably don't have the tools to install solid rivets.
With a little more shaping and dressing out and it should blend in nicely.
And that's it for a few days, I off to work tomorrow morning but will be back with enthusiasm!
I might have a spare mount. I'll look tomorrow.
A couple of days ago mt friend Tarrence helped me bend up some steel with his oxy, just a couple of ugly off cuts that I could shape to suit my needs.
I wanted to mimic the lower pressing of the original steering box rather than just use some hard edged C channel.
The next step was to create an opening in the firewall for the steering column. I made a pattern from the left hand opening and recreated a reversed version (the opening is not symmetrical) in 18g.
After much fitting, trimming, filing and refitting I tacked it in place as well as some round plugs for the hacked holes above.
The ultimate test........
Fitted a column onto the box, it slides up through the firewall exactly the same as the left side and mounts to the dash perfectly. I'm a happy man!
I need to practice achieving a bit more penetration on my sheet metal welds, I copied this handy little magnetic copper heat sink tool from Mr MP&C, it'll give me a little more confidence to turn the heat up on my welder.
Nice score, coming along nicely. Honestly it'd really like the warmer climate up here in sunny Q'ld and keep my 35 phaeton company.
Wish I had some warmer weather, it's icy here at the moment!
Haven't achieved a great deal in the last couple of days, pulled out the left hand pedals and roughed in the right hand set. Just did some general cleaning and degreasing.
I have two sets of pedals, small diameter shaft 1940 pedals and large diameter shaft 1939 pedals (I think).
I'm mocking up with the 40 pedals even though they're in worse condition.
I struggling the the right hand clutch linkage and setup. I transferred the clutch pivot onto the right hand side and offered up some parts but it doesn't seem to fit quite right, from the pivot ball and the equalizer shaft too far to the right.
Do any hambers have photos of an original RHD 1940 Ford pedals and trans situ?
I'm trying to figure out how it was configured and what parts I'm missing.
Arrived home from a few days at work last night, straight into the 40 this morning.
Cleaned up the column shifter parts and scoped out the idea of using the original shifter but flipped to the left hand side. It will work perfectly, Henry obviously designed it to operate on both sides.
Also moved the handbrake handle and re-routed the cable and speedo drive.
Cut out the old column hole and tacked in the solid piece I removed from the right hand side.
Not very exciting photography but any progress is good.
I have just been reading your thread and am particularly interested in your Top Bows and mechanism.
I have just bought an Aussie 40 Ford Convertible with a Carson type top, I want to fit a Fold Down top to it and like you am trying to find a set of top bows, Now I used to have a 37 Club Cabriolet that I fitted USA 40 Ford Hood Bows to, A car I should noyt have sold Grrrr, so to make up for it I have just bought this purple 40.
Have you seen the bows sold by the company below, any thoughts on them
View attachment 2933835
Yes the Wheel covers have been removed (grin) only the guy that owned the car liked them.
Sent you an email a couple of days ago, did you receive it.
Its been a while since I've updated here......
I have slowly been plodding away on things little bit at a time, BIG progress today though!
Yesterday I finally received a convertible top I've been waiting on since late October. @hotroddude helped me out with an wanted ad on his early ford v8 facebook page. He received a reply from a fellow in Indiana with a complete top assembly! The parts were arranged and shipped over the next few months.
Next step is to sort out the windshield header, latches and sort out some specific shoulder bolts.
And of course the mandatory 'bed sheet' photo! I'm still trying to figure out exactly where the bows should sit.
My uncle is a toolmaker/machinist by trade, he has rebuild a set of pedals and installed a new worm gear on my steering shaft ready for the steering box rebuild.
I've just been working on the firewall rebuild and odds and sods.
A friend of mine heads over to the LA roadster show every year, he picked me up a set of 600-16 firestones. I'm thinking of heading down the early custom route.
Did you get the windshield header with the top?
I purchased the windshield header separately. A few years ago a hamber helped me out with one.
I have mocked up the header, but have not secured it in place just yet. It needs a bit of timber surgery to fit the frame correctly.
I was wondering why the top would not fold down inside the passenger compartment.
Comparing my car to photos of other 40's it is apparent that the tulip/catwalk panel on my car has been altered.
Examining the underside of that panel and the trunk hinge area it is obvious as there are signs of where the original panel was cut out and where the original cabin opening should be.
The new panel could be from a 39 Ford(?) it is well formed and fits right.
Now I need to decide if I should use this folding top and correct the catwalk, or do away with the folding top for a more custom 40 convertible.
Here is a nice reference photo of the correct panel in a 40 ford convertible, although slightly charred.
Mine is 2 - 3 times longer than this one and has no structure for the tack strip.
This may of some assistance to you for details. . My 40 has been in storage for a while but it is very similar to this including the standing tack strip flange. I am slowing filling my head & gathering information to tackle my car in the fall.
This is one is a visual reference similar to what I have.
The 39 guy pointed out to another builder that the wooden headers & bows are available from Wescotts Auto. Wescotts have the latches & complete top bows too.
Bob Drake had the latches but they are currently out of stock and are costly. It would be nice if a person could see what Wescotts look like as they are more reasonable.
Perhaps seek out a good shop that sews convertible tops and get some guidance before getting knee deep into it. One would hope that a good shop should be able to sew a top that works with an altered car & roof irons or give guidance on the changes to be able to make a working roof. I would like to have a flatter roof similar to the one in the reference to take the hump out of it. The original 40 Ford top looks like it was designed for kids to stand on the back seat but that may be 40's design trend.
You have a great looking car. I look forward to your progress & perhaps some postings to complete the top.
All the best with your project.
Nice info there Glenn! Tom I hope you decide to do your homework and figure out how to restore the catwalk panel to it's correct configuration. I drive my convertible with the top down so much people often ask me if it has one. Having said that I like the convenience of having the fold up top stowed on the car ready to put up at a moments notice while out for a drive. In my pinion if you have have a removable hard top you might as well have a coupe.
Very nice looking 40 convert.Please keep the updates coming.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Second thoughts on your top. It does look very 39ish. so possibly 2 directions. Find a 40 catwalk or make it a 39 top. One advantage of the 40 catwalk is that it would allow a back seat but may be a lot more work than you want.. Easiest optionbuild top as a 39 if you can leave the body as is with some modification to the top irons. It may need a flange or creative method of forming a wood or synthetic tack strip around the 39 catwalk. Modern convertibles use a synthetic or plastic material like tack strip material. If a Hamber could give you a quick measurement from the dash to the edge of the catwalk in the center of the car then that could tell how close the car is to a 39 top.
The bow arrangement back of the doors is simpler for the 39 because it is shorter. If it was possible look at a 39 bow system then you may be able to remove the bow that makes the hump in the forty roof & adjust the angle of the rear most bow to make the irons to be similar to a 39 so it folds and nests.
Your car has the 40 trunk lid by the look of it with the 39 style catwalk.
It may be easier said than done but if you could see a 39 convertible and compare it to yours to help formulate a direction. If you have 40 latches etc that mate to your car then that takes care of that & the doors forward with the set of irons that you have. I agree with 39 Guy that it is better to have a working top as it gives the freedom to travel top down or put it up when the weather is miserable. With a lift off top then the top either has to stay on for road trips, have a trailer along to carry the lift off or stay close to home which is disappointing if really wanting a convertible. You could be closer than you may think at the moment.
There is a gentleman from Delaware on the Ford Barn who has advertised a lot of 40 convertibles & parts over the years. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1215027
All the best in what ever direction you .
Thanks for your input Glenn,
I have seen both of those pages before. The blue convertible has been very helpful setting up my top so far.
I really like the idea of a 39 top on a 40 Ford and I'm happy for this car to be a two seater. The only issue is that the top will not fold down inside the car with the current catwalk.
My sister suggested the idea of a parade boot of some sort, similar to what Quentin has done here on his Cad.........
Yeah I'm over the lift off top idea, that was the preferred option until I found these roof irons. Now they MUST work!
I'm just gonna think about this one for a while. In the meantime I'm working on the windshield header, trying to get it to fit the top of the windscreen half decent!
Ok, here is some more stuff for you to ponder on the top idea.
The first link is for an excellent web site that has some good photos of a 40's structure. if you look under projects you will also find a green 39 ford convertible project that shows the building of the rear deck. The 39 project is also interesting because they ditched the rumble seat and installed a 40 Ford coupe trunk lid. I have always preferred the 39 top but at times I think it would be nice to have a 40 with a back seat.
This second site is a page from the Wescott catalog that shows a fiberglass 40 body with good detail of the top irons (theirs which is similar to the stock one) and the the tack strip. That picture of the white 39 is of my car. It was taken shortly after it was built and long before I bought it 15 years ago.
Hope this info is helpful. I have been following Cadmans build of the convertible. I like what this extremely talented guy is doing to the car.
The blue 40 is Tony Millers. His build thread is at the address below. Beautiful car. I think it will be using a lift off top.
Thank you gentlemen!
39guy thanks for the links. I have looked over the Wescotts catalogue for their top irons but never thought to look at their bodys. That green 39 from SAR if gorgeous, I'll definitely be looking through those photos in more detail.
I too am a big fan of Quentin's Cadillac and Tony's 40, they provide a huge amount of inspiration and encourage me to challenge the normal way of doing things.
Thanks for your suggestions guys, much appreciated.
This build has been moving pretty slowly, hopefully I'll be able to tie a few things together shortly show a bit of progress!
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