The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by duncan, Oct 8, 2018.
Seriously? Can you post a pic of it, thats hard to believe.
I went to a "body shop" once and a guy was taking out the road sign+rivets+ bondo quarter repairs and replacing them. With unformed a/c duct tin....... and rivets....... and bondo..... Car was a 55-57 T-bird.
I don't know about anyone else but I'm feeling a lot better about my "skills" after viewing this thread.
dumpster floor patch
Camber? What's that?
That drag link mod is actually fairly common; scary as hell, but common
Wheel doesn't fit? Just burn some new holes in it!
Don't worry about phasing the U joints, it'll work with them any old way
Where did you pry that from? Inner rocker and floor?
Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Shake Rattle and Roll Baby!!! Yeah!!;
Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
yep. I think HURST made them but looked a lot better
I had an OT car with aftermarket wheels on it and the center whole opening was about a couple of millimeters bigger than the hub and that had a significant shake to it. I can't imagine that car being derivable at all.
Augh! You guys are giving away all of my secrets!
It appears that not all car builders are craftsmen, I am amazed by some of the welding in the Pic's, WOW !
SWWWEEET Jeeebus. Some folks ought not have access to tools and torches, nor sharp objects. It's against the common good.
I can’t believe some of these welds, they don’t look like they would hold for a minute. At least the dropped tie rod had heavy material and pretty good welds.
Here on the HAMB I keep hearing about “ no welds” on the steering. Then I read about a guy cutting a steering box in two and welding it back together and that’s ok.Then I see these “ manufacturered “ couplings that are way weaker than a good weld being accepted.
Then I go to the Indianapolis 500 Museum and see the weld on the steering on one of the Unsers race cars.
Kinda hard to figure
what’s right and what’s wrong with all this.
I figure if it’s safe enough for an Indy car, it ought to be safe for a street car.
Just my .02.
I Don't have a picture, but I know about a car that had its frame boxed with wood that was molded in with bondo.
Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Most of those comments here, relate to steering components below the steering box , not the steering column shown in your post [which usually has a 16:1 mechanical advantage]
If you ever do a Brinell test on a weld, you will notice that most welds are stronger than the parent material. Also the material next to the weld is usually softer than the parent material.
Most welders kid themselves that their welds are stronger than the job they're welding, but don't realize their welding is actually weakening the parent material next to the weld
The proper fix [usually at the high-end fabrication level] is to anneal the whole piece then heat treat it again.
I had a cut and welded countershaft in a M22 that was done this way [I fed 650ft/lbs through it]
I've also had a welded pitman arm on my old Road Race car , It never bothered me at 170+ mph.
In the spirit of this thread, I'll add this
From: Ford Street Rod, Fall 1975...
I get the feeling that if that person were to take the rail road tracks a bit to fast the coil springs might end up in the trunk
I never thought I'd say this, but there's something to be said for whipping out your checkbook and paying someone else to do stuff for you, now that I've seen the extent of jackassery that has gone before and continues today!
LOL - well several British sports cars from the '30s into the early '50s came with OEM wood frames!
When I was building my 34 pickup, the frame was rotted in two in a few places and every part attached to it was such solid rust and pits that I could not use any of it. I found out that I could buy a built frame that was built on a jig for roughly the same money as me buying the rails and crossmembers and doing it on my garage floor. So I went with a professionally built frame.
Unfortunately, I found out later that it was less than correct, but still workable.
Check every measurement on a pro built frame before you start putting your suspension components on it....lesson learned.
Its Only temporary,,, Unless it works.....
Wow. Unbelievable. The filler is a nice touch.
My wall hanger likely belongs on a different thread, as it's simply an example of a part that wished very much to remain where it resided for decades.
Separate names with a comma.