The Upper Krust - a Jaguar custom

I thought about adding IRS, but it would require narrowing it, and it's a lot of work just to fit it. Yes, the S-Type did have IRS, but Jaguar extended the trunk to make it fit, if that gives you any idea how much work is required (compare the Mk2 to S-Type trunk). There's a gret YouTube channel from the UK called RetroPower If you want to see some low-stress builds. They added IRS to a MK2 and it took a lot of work and engineering and they were professionals, with all the tools and skills.

 

Oh I love Jags. This might help get the juices going.

 

That's Fluevog's MkX. This is Justin Hill's 1953 xk120 custom with a v12

 

I mildly customized my Mk II. I looked at it from the driver’s side one day and thought it just had too many things breaking up the sensuous curves, 4 doors, a gas door and the skirts, each it’s own gaps.
So I used wheel opening flares from the front fenders of a donor Mk II to create new wheel openings just large enough to allow for changing the tires and then welded and molded the skirts on.
It cleaned up the side nicely. Then I did a driveway black lacquer paint job.
I sure like like what you’re doing with yours.

 

Thanks for the tip on RetroPower! I have a 'thing' about Cortinas and MK1 Escorts, they have some beautiful builds.

BTW listened to your Albini show, it was more than great. Thank you.

 

Thanks! This past week's show was all goth for World Goth Day. This week will be back to the regular postpunk mix. I'm also starting a show for summer called The Speed & Danger Hour, which will be mostly a hot rod mix of modern rockabilly, garage and surf, with some classic country thrown in (Sundays 8-9 EST). The station has an all vinyl show on Fridays (5-6:30pm) where community members get to spin their records on the air. I'm doing one soon and it will be all psych and acid rock. I like a lot of different kinds of music.

 

Nicely done! I hate the stock skirts (spats) and Coombs skirts on these things. The S-type rear wheel arches looked better to me

 

I drove the 41 PU to the hardware store the other day to grab some krylon semi flat (how do run out of that stuff?). A gentleman loading his purchases in a hardtop MG next to me asked me who does my painting to which I responded I do. He asked me if I would paint some cars for him, small English stuff and I told him I wasn't really interested in becoming a "hired gun". But short story long I mentioned this build to him @Hellfish and he thought it may the coolest idea ever. He asked where he could see the thread and told him the HAMB and he said BS! I laughed and told him to check the OT forum for your thread.

That car is going to look evil. You are on to something cool!

 

Thanks! Let's see if he pops in. I also have bits and pieces on a Jag forum, but most of those guys get pretty uptight about any modifications. Dropping in a later 4.2 is barely tolerable, but they get squeamish when the inner fender needs to be cut for it to fit.
Until now I couldn't post anything here because, apparently, no one in the US or elsewhere ever customized foreign cars in the 50s and 60s... except for all of the examples of people who did... so they can't possibly be traditional... and I can't post about it on Jag forums because of the obvious sacrilege. Oh well!

 

As a XKE owner I have an interest in all things Jag. I have several 4.2 engines. I say keep posting customs or not!

 

Were these pics taken at the Flash Back Cruise?

 

It is Fluevog's car. Picture was taken in Vancouver, BC at VanDusen Gardens British Car Show. All on grass with a band playing Beatles tunes. Can't beat the venue.

 

I'm nowhere near doing body work but I needed to know what I was getting into, so I stripped the paint and scraped off all of the filler. It was almost 1/2" thick in one spot, but the rest was all about 1/4" or thinner. It looks like the car may actually be as rust-free as it appears. Clearly some collision damage and sculptural filler work, but rust-free. A car from the 60s. A BRITISH car from the 60s. The metal work isn't too bad and the fender is pretty straight. I need to make sure the frame is straight but all looks good.

With a quick rattle can pre-primer job, you can see it a little more clearly. It can use a little more work, but it's already been metal worked a lot, so I may make things worse by doing too much. This explains why the filler goes back into the rocker. All the door gaps are good. Doors close perfectly.

 

Good on you! I have been known to keep a couple TR250/TR4's in my back pocket. Fun cars to drive!!

 

Fired it up (very) briefly just to confirm it runs. Now I need to borrow a run stand to fully break it in.

How long can you run a fresh engine before going through the 20 minute break in sequence? I thought you weren't supposed to let them idle much, but getting the carbs and timing dialed in requires it to be running.

 

I borrowed a run stand from a local shop so I could do the initial break-in. He said to run it for 20 minutes and DO NOT shut it off unless there's a catastrophe, like it's spewing oil everywhere. Definitions may vary. I got it going and started discovering problems... carbs were backfiring a bit, the alternator was squealing like a banshee under load, but most importantly, it was running hot... really hot. I finally shut it off when the head passed 450. I should have stopped earlier, but like I said, definitions may vary. That was a 15 minute run. I doubt 5 minutes will make much of a difference.

Once it cooled down I checked: compression (all good), oil (no water in it), water (no oil in it), spark plugs (showed signs of running lean, which I knew, so I cleaned them), timing (advanced 2*, so I corrected that), and carbs. Re torqued the head per spec. So far, it looks like a may be lucky and didn't damage the head. Dumbass me filled up the radiator until it wouldn't take any more and assumed it was good... but forgot to account for the amount the WP would suck out of the radiator and circulate, so it was low on water, hence the hotness.

The carbs all looked good, but once I started messing with them, I realized that they were imbalanced, mostly due to a vacuum leak on the center carb. Got all that sorted. So now she's running pretty well. Probably needs some more tinkering with timing and mixture, but not too bad for my first time doing this.

https://youtube.com/shorts/fNzsNaFyjVg?si=3tnzBDFAYyzhQ1tm

Not sure how to embed this!

 

Ouch, that's HOT! Check HAMB for debate on drilling a hole in the thermostat to relieve the air.

In the toolbar at the top of where you reply, it has a smile (Similes) a landscape (Image), then filmstrips
(Media). When I paste a video, it usually recognizes it without having to use the tool, but you can edit and click on the Media then paste in the address.

 

You probably dodged a bullet on the overheating as Jags like to drop valve seats when run too hot.

 

Yeah, I'm a little worried about that one. How do I check to see if a valve seat is at risk of dropping? Leak down test? Is there a visual inspection? Google isn't being very helpful. Compression was good on all cylinders.

 

AFAIK, if a seat is going to drop it'll do it while its hot. So that's why I said you dodged the bullet... it didn't get hot enough. They're actually pretty tough motors.

 

I stripped the other side. It was definitely not better than the left. Really thick Bondo, but nicely sculpted! I no longer think the car was in an accident. It looks more like someone attempted some rust repair and panel replacement, but did a really bad job at welding and heat control. That may explain why the front fender supports were rusted to nothing, but no rust in the rest of the car. To simplify the process, I ordered some pre-made panels, but will end up making a few, too. The right rocker needs a lot of work, so easier to replace, then start on the 2-door conversion.

 

Man, it's tough, but I've always heard, First, Restore, Then Modify.

 

I got the replacement outer rocker and fender patches in, so I started stripping the interior. When's the last time you saw an old car without rust in the floors (and only a small handful of mouse poop)?? There may be a small patch under the driver's feet, but otherwise it looks good.