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The Ultimate 235 Hop up Thread.......

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by SLAMIT, Jan 20, 2011.

  1. BTTT

    I'm building a basically stock .040 over 57 truck 235 for my 50 pickup. 848 head, stock 261-spec cam, Fenton headers, Fenton dual intake, Carter YFs. Will post some pictures one of these days. I've enjoyed reading through this whole thread off and on over the past week.
     
    LAROKE likes this.
  2. AMW
    Joined: Jan 27, 2019
    Posts: 1

    AMW

  3. stik70
    Joined: Apr 27, 2009
    Posts: 67

    stik70
    Member
    from midwest

    subscribed with a '54 235 project
     
  4. ftwkustom
    Joined: Feb 5, 2009
    Posts: 37

    ftwkustom
    Member
    from michigan

    Wow, that’s an old post. The distributor cap was supposedly made by autolite. Made of glass. That motor looks totally different now.

    I am going a different route on my project. I have a 32 roadster was gonna try and put the inline into. Was gonna open a can of worms. Hate to give up on it. But I’m going w a Flathead now. Listed most of my 6 stuff in the classifieds earlier if anyone’s interested. Not to hijack the thread. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Tim, Robert J. Palmer and tractorguy like this.
  5. Aeroman
    Joined: Apr 19, 2005
    Posts: 700

    Aeroman
    Member

    One of my favorite threads on here. I thought social media killed the forums?! I'll share a few images of my 261 soon. It's going in a '47 Chevy Fleetline.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
     
  6. Haven’t been on here in awhile but like to add my 235 here .60 over .125 off the head valve job custom grind cam 4 barrel Clifford intake wixski valve cover and pertronix dizzy... C33C7426-9429-483C-9D71-AB5A8C0246AB.jpg


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    LAROKE and Gofannon like this.
  7. You can static balance the piston and rod assembly very easily with the use of an accurate balance that you can make or buy.
    To balance the big end, just mount the pin end on a stand, and weigh all the big ends on the scale. Then, file the base (flat pad) of the big end rods to match the weight of the lightest big end.
    To balance the piston end, I lightly clamp a piece of shim stock between the cap and the rod base, so that the contact point is the same for all the rods. Then, if you want to be super accurate, weigh the pin end, and match the weight to the lightest rod. Next, weigh all the pins and match the weight. Lastly, do the same with all the pistons.
    This is a poor man's method of balancing, but it can make a considerable difference to the smoothness of the engine.
    Remember a little weight difference on the scale, becomes a lot of differential at 5000 rpm or more.
    The biggest differences I have found, were always on engines that had been rebuilt one or more times.
    Bob
     
  8. Dyno Dave
    Joined: Feb 18, 2011
    Posts: 291

    Dyno Dave
    Member

    HELP, recently acquired two Edelbrock Chevy six intakes, the 216 is a N.O.S. piece late 30's thru 53' sticks and the 235 is marked PG powerguide first used from 1950 thru 1962. With the stepped inlet rings they will fit 216/235 261. I would like to come up with the Edelbrock catalog listing ID #'s for these two pieces. Have a decent collection of this era catalogs and find Offenhauser/Fenton stuff,
    but not Edelbrock.... Thanks for your time, dyno dave
     
  9. 270ci
    Joined: May 17, 2010
    Posts: 394

    270ci
    Member

    A good blow job certainly perks up an ole stovebolt!
    blwn270-3.JPG
    Soren's 216.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2019
    Dyno Dave, 6inarow, jtrod49 and 2 others like this.
  10. Very nice!
    Bob
     
  11. Dyno Dave, Baumi, 270ci and 2 others like this.
  12. I Like Tacos
    Joined: Sep 12, 2017
    Posts: 150

    I Like Tacos

  13. CadillacKidd
    Joined: Mar 31, 2021
    Posts: 2

    CadillacKidd

    I am building a stovebolt stroker at the moment. Everything is currently at the machine shop and has been cleaned and magnafluxed.

    1954 Chevy 261 [Blue Block]
    Bore should clean up around .060"-.080"
    Converting to full flow oiling.
    Molnar Billet 7.125" H-beam Con Rods
    STD/STD stock forged crank offset ground for 4.125" stroke with 2.1 rod journals
    Custom Forged Pistons are in the works

    I'm currently running a 235 with 848 head, shaved block and head with .040" cast flat top pistons. This is in a 1933 Chevy 1.5 Ton OB Chassis with SM420, closed drive shaft, stock rear end with 5.43:1 gears. Holley Sniper EFI with Hyperspark on Clifford 4150 intake. Clifford split headers into Flowmaster Super 50. Everything runs great, so much better than with the stock manifolds and single barrel carb.

    I am building the 261 stroker to replace the 235 in my 33. My intention is to build a daily driver; this will include F-450 S130 rear axle with 4.30:1 gears, and a TKX with 0.72:1 5th gear.

    I am at a cross roads with which way to go before I commit to ordering pistons. I was planning on a Turbo running 4-6 PSI, but I'm torn between that and a Weiand 174 Supercharger for the lack of boost lag. I don't plan on racing, but I'm a pretty aggressive driver and use all the extra power I can every now and then...I've been considering fuel economy as well since it will be a daily driver, and am thinking about going the high compression route. It'll probably never really see over 3500-4000 RPMs, so torque will be key.

    If I turbo it, I will fab up a custom manifold with long intake runners for better low end power. If I run a blower, I will use the blower manifold from JJ Inlines. If I go high compression, I'll use the Clifford that is currently on the 235. What is the highest CR that would be safe for 91 octane on these engines? Cam profiles will be dictated by which road I end up walking and will most likely be a custom grind.

    If you have experience or input on this, please let me know what your thoughts are. Every bit of knowledge is helpful in developing the proper build for the rather archaic old sixer.
     

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    ebs121781 and Baumi like this.

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