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Projects The Rosebud Modified: a Build Thread (pre war/ wartime single seat roadster)

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by THE235KID, May 23, 2015.

  1. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837

    PeteFromTexas
    Member

    Hey guys, sorry about that. I had a minor health setback but I'm back up on my feet and ready to rock and roll.

    I picked up this Model A wishbone ball/socket last week. I'm going to have some issues with oil pan clearance with the Stovebolt Chevy motor and the unmodified 36 Ford front end in this car.

    Hopefully this will help with any issues and I won't have to split the bones.

    I only get about a day a week to work on it so I should have done more updates this weekend.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,075

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Actually, the early one man cars (transverse leaf front) mostly had split bones, using the Ford axle as an 'anti-roll' bar. (note some of the early dirt trackers, and how 'flat' they sit when being 'pitched'.)

    The splitting of the 'bones, however, will make contact with the insides of front tires on sharp turns;
    the correct heating is in the front 'neck' of the forward spring hanger.
    Other consideration is the use of the older 'socket' type tie rod end that attaches to a ball stud at the side of the frame rail.
    Pete Dias, 1920- 1934 Indy mechanic of Santa Clara was a neighbor of mine. I was 13, he was about 60.
    He told me of the similarity the 'modern hot rods' (this was in '55!) had to the Indy cars he had worked on. Pete resented the V8, said "guys these days don't want to work for their horsepower. They just get it right out of a can. A V8 can."
    He had loads of pictures...I always wanted to build an old style flat tail sprinter, have started projects...
    Kudos on the Chevy rails!!! My favorites, '27-'31. '27 and '28 the favorites.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  3. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837

    PeteFromTexas
    Member

    You are right. A lot of them did have split bones. Probably most. I just prefer the look and feel of the stock wishbone setup. I'm going to figure out a way to make it work. I'm starting on the center crossmembers this week. I'm going to try to incorporate the ball socket on the transmission crossmember. The rear is staying unsplit. The car is sitting pretty high so I shouldn't have and clearance issues.

    Thanks for the info though. I've been going back and forth on splitting the front bones. I like the look of 32-34 tie rod ends when used the mount the split bones.

    Hopefully it doesn't come to splitting them but if so I have a plan.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2015
  4. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837

    PeteFromTexas
    Member

    I got some work today but nothing exciting. Just finished up a ton of welding and did a ton of grinding. Not much to take pics of but the good news is I should have the chassis off the jig and rolling very very soon.
     
  5. sharpmark
    Joined: Jan 25, 2008
    Posts: 82

    sharpmark
    Member

    this is a great thread and thanks for all the pictures and info.
    keep up the good work!
    mark
     
  6. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,075

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Kid: I saw somewhere someone makes and markets a 'ball socket receiver' for use with unsplit front bones. It's a large plate bracket with a center socket and matching cap. It would weld or bolt onto a fabricated center crossmember.
    Not sure of the diameter, as Model A is smaller than the '35-'48?
    If someone knows of this product, please shout it out?
     
  7. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,588

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    sko_ford likes this.
  8. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837

    PeteFromTexas
    Member

    I've seen these. I will need one very soon. I'm pretty sure one of the Model A suppliers sells them.
     
  9. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837

    PeteFromTexas
    Member

  10. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,588

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    Okay. I was referring mostly to the piece that holds the ball, for the wishbone. It has a name, parts number and a vendor.
     
  11. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837

    PeteFromTexas
    Member

    Some pics from Saturday's work. Like I said before, nothing crazy cool. I got the rear crossmember welded to the frame. I added an internal fish type plate to help secure the crossmember. (2nd pic)

    I also have a junk 35 Ford frame that has a few useful bits and pieces on it. I took the last 16 inches, flipped it, trimmed the ends, did a little contouring and used it to brace the rear crossmember. Nothing to fancy. I like using original parts and pieces to do these types of things. It lends to the original look. I only got one done still need to do the other side.

    That's all for now. More very soon
     

    Attached Files:

  12. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837

    PeteFromTexas
    Member

    I plan on adding a little to the front of the support piece. Have it extend firward and out to the rail and attach on the rail side. One side almost down one to go. Then it's on to the torque tube, center crossmembers, rear bones, trans and motor mounts.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  13. Okie Pete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 3,188

    Okie Pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for posting pictures of your project. Your frame will be solid . Like the stovebolt 6 for power .
    I have a Chevy project that stalled out . You are getting me thinking about it again.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  14. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837

    PeteFromTexas
    Member

    Picked up this really great early Ford tie rod bone splitting kit from Cory Taulbert. I'm going to be splitting the rear bones. I want to leave the torque tube alone and let the Chevy transmission slip yolk work as it should. These will be mounted toward the center of the car so the look will still be there. The from bones are still staying unsplit.

    The second pic is a recent one of the Ralph Schenck Streamliner from 1940.
    This is the same basic way I'll be doing my rear bones and torque tube. You can see that the Chevy slip yolk remails intact and the rear bones are split.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 25, 2015
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  15. AmishMike
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 447

    AmishMike
    Member

    Great build - great post. Was gathering parts for same then 300 6 ford pickup was going to use blew rod through the side. Parts gone.... Looking for new project - son says must have 2 seats. Following your build - change my mind.
     
    kiwijeff likes this.
  16. Alger
    Joined: Oct 8, 2013
    Posts: 51

    Alger
    Member
    from Sacto

    Great build, I like the repurposed frame pieces, very traditional. Any updates?
     
    bct likes this.
  17. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837

    PeteFromTexas
    Member

    I'm planning on getting back in this in the spring. Moving shops right now so it's hard to work on it! Thanks for the support.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  18. Very nice! Any more pics of that Ralph Schneck car?
     

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