Register now to get rid of these ads!

THE oldsmobile rocket 303 324 371 394 post to end all other posts, (lasalle related )

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RocketDaemon, Dec 19, 2006.

  1. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 5,267

    Gman0046
    Member

    The sixties were the days to be a young Hot Rodder. Inexpensive speed equipment and standard shift parts like transmissions, bell housings, flywheels, clutches and gears were readily available from dealers parts departments for late fifties and sixties cars. Finding that stuff today is like finding a needle in a haystack.
     
    Sixhundred sixteen and GuyW like this.
  2. Nick Flores
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,355

    Nick Flores
    Member

    Well, today I am that just out of(25 years ago) high school kid with the keys to a machine shop....

    Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  3. triumph 1
    Joined: Feb 9, 2011
    Posts: 319

    triumph 1
    Member

    Call Tony @ Ross racing engines, he’ll have whatever parts you need.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    Nick Flores likes this.
  4. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,543

    gonzo
    Member

    I'm running an Isky cam in my 324 and am happy with the results. I'm not sure if Tony turns his own cams or if he just stocks other peoples but if you get into a turned down cam you may need to play with your pushrod length. That's no big deal and Tony at Ross can handle it, but it does add an added layer of complexity. I went with an Isky cam, new lifters and stock pushrods. Maybe most importantly it sounds pretty dang nice!

     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2019
    Paul likes this.
  5. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 274

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    @gonzo , is this Isky cam you have a currently available grind or an old one you found? Do you have any specs you could post on it?
     
  6. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,543

    gonzo
    Member

    I bought the cam with a stalled engine rebuild project, so it was new old stock. I'm not 100% sure on the vintage but I think it was bought new from Isky in the mid 90s. I'm pretty sure they would grind you one or they might have it on the shelf. If not others make cams for that motor.
    Here are the specs on mine.
    Isky Z360Hyd Cam
    .390 Lift
    248 Deg Duration,
    194 Deg duration at .050 lifter rise
    112 degree lobe center.
     
    Deuces and jebbesen like this.
  7. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 12,989

    F&J
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My 324 has a NOS Crower hyd made for the early 303 that ran 1.5 rockers, and if I had run 1.8 rockers, I would have only had .007 valve-to-piston clearance. I had several sets of vintage adjustable rockers in both 1.5 and 1.8, so I went with the proper 1.5 for this cam...and also swapped to the stock early 303 1.5 rocker shaft stands that are required.
    I originally had a lot more lope than your video when I had the timing initial at around 8BTC, so I set more advanced by ear. Back then I had a partially plugged radiator and it would run hotter than an thick wall early Olds should, and doing the advance by ear, that cooled it right down.
     
    gonzo likes this.
  8. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 274

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Thanks Gonzo. I figured so. Just curious if they still had blanks for our cams. Appreciate you posting the specs. Always interesting to see what guys are running.
     
    gonzo likes this.
  9. don colaps
    Joined: Nov 29, 2007
    Posts: 25

    don colaps
    Member

    Hi! I recently bought a 1953 303 with adjustable rockers, what looks like hydraulic lifters converted to solids ”the 50’s way” and an unknown cam. I haven’t tore deep down in it, I have only removed the heads and valley cover yet. Looking to identify the camshaft, but where to look? I guess I have to look for some id numbers stamped in the front end of the cam? Thanks guys


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  10. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 14,136

    Paul
    Editor

    please disregard..
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2019
    don colaps likes this.
  11. don colaps
    Joined: Nov 29, 2007
    Posts: 25

    don colaps
    Member

    Thanks Paul! Gonna remove the front cover and water pump soon.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  12. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,428

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    Sorry the one I just sold was marked M5 on the rear. Gary
     
    don colaps likes this.
  13. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 14,136

    Paul
    Editor

    Of course it was!
    With bolt bolt holes and button up front there is no room for a mark
    Don't know what I was thinking

    20190129_153822.gif
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2019
    don colaps likes this.
  14. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 14,136

    Paul
    Editor

    I went and dug out my last three early Olds race cams,
    Engle and Wolverine had no marks, Isky is stamped at rear end surface..
     
  15. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,428

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    The 3 new Howards I have are marked on the rear also. Two M4S and one M4FH, Gary
     
  16. Dad Was A Racer
    Joined: Oct 7, 2014
    Posts: 112

    Dad Was A Racer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Is there a commonly available oil dipstick for another Olds or other make engine that fits the 324 Olds Rocket V8? My stock tube is loose in the block and too rusted for reuse.
     
  17. I need one too. Been one 303 on Ebay but too much at $45 + shipping

    Sent from my SM-J327V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  18. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 14,136

    Paul
    Editor

    I pulled a few from my pile,
    They are all essentially the same, 303, 324, 371 and 394.
    The only real difference is the '49 and possibly the '50 were wire, all the rest are typical flat style.
    The wire is about 1/2" shorter overall
    16-1/4" top of tube to full on the wire 303
    16" top of tube to full on all the rest.
    The one loose tube I found is 13" overall with 8-5/8" sticking out measured from block surface.
    I only found the one loose tube but three in blocks, all project the same 8-5/8"

    20190131_175241.jpg
     
    Chris Lie, 36 ROKIT, jebbesen and 3 others like this.
  19. hotrodscott2003
    Joined: Jul 1, 2008
    Posts: 360

    hotrodscott2003
    Member

    I have a question. The distributor in my 324 has what seems to me like excessive up and down play in it, and I'm wondering if it needs some shims to take it out. I've dug deep into my library of old Chilton's manuals, and can't find any specs on this anywhere. Do any of you guys have any suggestions and/or specs?
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2019
  20. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 14,136

    Paul
    Editor

    A little end play is ok but there should be no side to side play.
    How much play does it actually have?
    Is the spring washer in place between gear and body?
    Does it look like it's been apart before?
     
  21. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 274

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    You don't shim an Olds for end play like you do a Chevy. The distributor is made to run against a wear surface on the end of the gear. The rotation and cut of the gear pulls it down. If you shim it close with it out of the car it will tighten up when you clamp it down into the block. Only worry about side play. Are you seeing excessive play when the distributor is on the bench or when it's in the car?
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2019
    Paul likes this.
  22. hotrodscott2003
    Joined: Jul 1, 2008
    Posts: 360

    hotrodscott2003
    Member

    Paul, I was hoping to hear from you...no, there is not a spring washer there, and no, it's never been apart. I'm going to assume that the spring probably laying in the pan somewhere! There is no 'slop' in the bushings. The rest of the distributor feels nice and tight.

    Jebbesen, thanks for the info. The excessive up an down movement prompted me to pull it in the first place, and it sounds like there is something missing from it.

    Is there a good source for parts for it? Sounds like I need to replace the missing shaft spring.
     
  23. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 14,136

    Paul
    Editor

    Yours probably never had the spring washer, I have at least one window style Delco without it.
     
  24. hotrodscott2003
    Joined: Jul 1, 2008
    Posts: 360

    hotrodscott2003
    Member

    Paul, hate to ask, but do you possibly have pics of of both? There is evidence of something that was there, which was why I was thinking it needed shims. Thanks again for the info.
     
  25. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 14,136

    Paul
    Editor

    Couple quick snapshots of what was handy,
    The one with the gear and no washers is out of a 394
    The one with washers and no gear is out of a 303

    20190218_212156.jpg 20190218_211856.jpg
     
  26. hotrodscott2003
    Joined: Jul 1, 2008
    Posts: 360

    hotrodscott2003
    Member

    Thanks, Paul! That does help a ton. Mine looks exactly like the 394 one, so I'm going to put it back together without the spring washer. Near as I can figure, my motor has the #8 heads, so my assumption is it's a 324 (1955?). The numbers on the pad on the block are virtually unreadable. Going to do a cam swap, timing chain, and have the heads freshened up. Really glad this thread is here, I've been going back and making a list of small upgrades for it...like the removal of the draft tube and the elimination of the water tubes at the back of the block. The motor is in my '27 T roadster, so no heater!
     
    Paul likes this.
  27. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 274

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Here's a pic of the 1956 324 one I just rebuilt. I milled the stake off the rivet so I could pull the shaft out. The new rivet is in the gear in this picture that's why the zip tie is there, just so it didn't fall out when I ran it on the dist mach. After I was done I peened it over. Wanted to make sure everything was happy before putting it in permanently. Some guys use a roll pin. I made a new rivet on the lathe. The roll pin probably would work fine but makes me nervous about it falling out. You can see how much clearance mine has. I have a couple other Olds ones that are similar. I'd honestly just run it. Mine worried me too till I found some Olds guys on another forum discussing it. One guy had shimmed his up nice and close and basically destroyed it when he put it in the engine.

    dist93.jpg
    dist92.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2019
    Paul likes this.
  28. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 274

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Since we are talking distributors I wanted to share an idea I'm trying on mine. My vac advance can was shot and I thought I'd try a Crane adjustable unit. They adjust very easily but don't have to limit stops in the same place as the original can. By cutting up the original one and stacking the bracket on top of the new adjustable one I have curve adjustment with factory max advance. It all works great. Found out I had to trim the original one slightly for cap clearance. May also change the advance springs in the future but right now I set it to stock advance specs per the 56 manual

    can1.jpg can4.jpg can5.jpg can6.jpg can7.jpg can8.jpg trimmed stop1.jpg

    Another mod I made was to add an oil wick bracket to the points advance plate. The Bluestreak points incorporate a wick but they have a plastic rub block. I prefer the phenolic rub block that the Napa Echlin points have. However they eliminate the wick. When I saw this Kasasaki wick holder I decided my problems were solved.
    wick holder2.jpg wick1.jpg dist1.jpg wick holder finished points plate.jpg
    I also added a mechanical advance weight stop screw like Bubba does to his flathead distributors. Not sure this was necessary but figured now was the time since it was all apart.

    points cam2.jpg points cam3.jpg .
    Finished it up with a Summit Racing cap and rotor. Very nice parts with brass contacts. I'd put them on par with the old Mallory stuff.

    dist7.jpg dist9.jpg dist91.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 19, 2019
    Paul and rod1 like this.
  29. hotrodscott2003
    Joined: Jul 1, 2008
    Posts: 360

    hotrodscott2003
    Member

    Great suggestions, Jebbesen. So glad to be able to connect with this type of knowledge here.
     
  30. jjjmm56
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 425

    jjjmm56
    Member
    from FL.

    I’ve got a 303 and a 324 distributor. Which is best to run in my 303?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2013 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.