Register now to get rid of these ads!

THE oldsmobile rocket 303 324 371 394 post to end all other posts, (lasalle related )

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RocketDaemon, Dec 19, 2006.

  1. Koz
    Joined: May 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,346

    Koz
    Member

    Working on a '56 324 with no heater in the car. Anybody know if it will do any damage if I just close off the two ports in the rear of the heads and the one in the water pump housing? I'm not sure how the water circulates in one of these.
     
  2. GOATROPER02
    Joined: Mar 22, 2006
    Posts: 2,059

    GOATROPER02
    Member
    from OHIO

    Block them..... no worrys
     
  3. Koz
    Joined: May 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,346

    Koz
    Member

    Thanks much again Tony!
     
  4. I found a cure for using a regular 57-58 type starter on the aftermarket crossover today. This may have been covered in a previous post but I have not seen it. I went to a local starter shop today with my crossover piece and my NOS starter and asked if they had a solution to put the bolt hole in the right place and the solenoid in a better location away from the pan without modifying it. The guy walked in the back and in two minutes he came out with the answer. It worked out slick with no alterations. It is a Direct End Delco Remy Transfer Motor.(Snout) Part number LC1743. Here are some pics. This is sure to help out someone with this problem I had with out buying a HT Mini Starter for stupid money. This part was 70 bucks and I changed out my starter snout with it. It works out perfect. Look at the orientation of the solenoid now. Much better. IMG_3693.JPG IMG_3693.JPG IMG_3694.JPG IMG_3695.JPG IMG_3697.JPG IMG_3698.JPG IMG_3691.JPG IMG_3691.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

    chickenshift, F&J and jakespeed63 like this.
  5. I would have mounted it but need to pickup some threaded studs instead of bolts to use. Much easier to install that way. I also want to paint the new part.
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2016
  6. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Great info. I did a whole bunch of digging, it also LOOKS like a 6 volt'41-'48 cad v-8 starter would work if you swap the gear, but man, try to find one. This is a great solution, and one thing I still need is a starter.
     
  7. great solution. maybe you better post the rebuilders name as many of us do not have rebuilders in our local area:):)
     
  8. Interesting find, I'm one of the poor slobs, whom had to do some major wheeling and dealing to afford my mini starter, for my 394. Truth be told, have yet to fire my motor/test starter...so crossing my fingers I made the right decision. Obtained from Ross Racing.
    JT
     
  9. The starter rebuilder is Luna Starter and Alternator Service in Tucson, Az. I looked at a Mini starter on Ebay for 205 bucks. I knew Ross would probably have been more so I wanted to use the part I had bought if it could work. They looked up the numbers on my starter and it was the correct one for a 57-58 Olds. I couldn't be happier right now. It also get the solenoid up out of the way for my headers that need to go under there too. Bonus.
     
  10. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,223

    F&J
    Member

    Somebody on hamb years ago, mentioned a Cadillac snout on a Olds starter for the crossover. I don't recall if they posted years of the Cad piece or not.
    .
     
  11. That is the year range for the Cad V8 starter that I have been told will fit. Apparently the whole starter will fit just fine with the solenoid up and out of the way of the oil pan.
    But as you mentioned, try finding one.
     
  12. Looks like an awesome solution! I wonder if that one will fit, or if they have a similar one for an Olds 303/324.

    Tried to look up the part # you listed on Delco Remy's website, but no dice. And their application search only goes back to 63...
    Must be nice having a knowledgable guy who can look stuff up.
     
  13. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,223

    F&J
    Member

    Speedy, the post I recall, the guy said you use the Olds starter body, but swap a Cad snout to it.

    The issue with vague info from so long ago, is that people don't remember the years of the parts. As you may know, the Olds starter design changed between 53 and 54.

    The older one can be quick-ID'ed by the thin band strap at the front, wrapped around to cover the brushes. The newer one has no strap, and I am fairy certain that there was no way to swap things between the two.

    Maybe I was just trying to swap from the 145 to 176 starter drive gear, which just won't fit. I just am not sure if the nose casting can be interchanged on those two designs. I don't think so from old memory, but if it's different, then that new nose posted above would not fit the 303 starters.

    Is there any mention of starters to use on old catalog instructions included with ordering a new changeover back in the day? There must be some info there?

    .
     
  14. Frank, you're absolutely right. Vague info includes so much mis-remembering or partial details.

    To the extent of my knowledge, there is no interchange between the early starters and later starters (speaking with regards to 303s and 324s. I had been told that the whole Cad starter fit on the 303s, but again, you may very well be correct with changing just the snout. Changing just the snout is a detail that could easily be forgotten over 50+ years.

    I took a quick look through some of my digitized catalogues, and see no reference to using a different starter or modifications that need to be made.
    However, in a tech article from Hot Rod Magazine in 1956 (which I have posted elsewhere), they did show medications to the starter snout as well as indenting the pan to make the starter fit... See the steps in the below picture.

    Bolt in a Rocket.jpeg
     
    gonzo likes this.
  15. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 15,346

    Paul
    Editor

    As far as I know, which ain't much..
    There were three starters for the early Olds V8 engines,
    The early one as said is recognized by the sheet metal dust cover over the brushes
    The mid version looks similar with exposed selenoid lever but solid body and no sheet metal cover
    The last one has the selenoid lever inside the cast end piece.
    All starters need to be matched to their corresponding flywheels.
     
  16. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 15,346

    Paul
    Editor

    On my current car I didn't want to modify the pan so I modified the selenoid belcrank and rotated the selenoid to clear the pan.
     
  17. I got my automotive studs tonight after work. Gonna stick in the starter and will show pics later tonight after I get it in. Hope this helps. I've already been contacted by one guy to get the new part. Ask for Bill when you call. He'll remember me and what I bought.
     
  18. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 15,346

    Paul
    Editor

    Dale,
    thanks for the link,
    the modification I did would not work for you,
    you need the later starter,
    no way to offset the solenoid without that casting you found!
    please let us know how it works when you turn the key
    enjoying your updates, keep 'em coming!
     
  19. I'm trying down here. My problem is I'm kinda all alone in my hotrod addiction here in
    Tucson. It's hard to find guys like you that get it. I just kinda plug away doing my thing when I can. Miss coming by your place and shooting the shit.
     
  20. IMG_3700.JPG IMG_3704.JPG IMG_3705.JPG Here is picture of the starter in position like it was meant to be. Getting that top nut on the stud tight is a real stinker. I hope I never have to do it on the side of the road. Also I have a question for anyone that wants to answer. The other pictures are of my remote oil filter block. I need to know which is in and out? Not sure of the brand but it has no markings. I have a manual that shows engine block oil flow but it is too small to see and not very detailed.Which port do I use to go into the remote beehive oil filter I have? Thanks ahead of time. Help a dummy out today?
    View attachment 3314492 IMG_3701.JPG IMG_3702.JPG IMG_3703.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2016
  21. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 15,346

    Paul
    Editor

    Two clues

    Oil flows from outside filter in.

    Excess pressure from pump due to clogged filter will lift the ball off its seat and bypass filter.
     
    Speedy Canuck likes this.
  22. FWIW...Tony usually pulls out the bypass valve, drills and taps the unit for a plug eliminating the bypass completely. I did that to my 324. So now I have a 5 way bypass internally and my engine has only one but we are bonding ever closer each dayo_Oo_O
     
  23. I'll look at it a little closer I guess.

    I looked at it logically and I have it figured out now. Thanks Paul.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2016
  24. ne'erdowell
    Joined: Nov 30, 2005
    Posts: 441

    ne'erdowell
    Member

    I have a question. I had a '55 in a model A coupe that I sold last fall. Completely rebuilt (.030 over), unknown solid lifter cam, 3 Stromberg 48s on an early Offenhuser intake, Mallory distributor with a custom Pertronix conversion. It ran great, started easily and revved right up with no stumbling or hesitation (although I did have the linkage adjusted to not get a full stroke on the trips). The question involves the 2 rear plugs , one on each bank, being very rich while the rest burned nice. This is adjacent firing order, I checked the wires for correct routing and checked the cap for tracking or cracks. Nothing. Any speculation?
     
  25. Jumping into the pool late here, but I have a couple of tips that will answer the starter changeover and spark plug
    question. (Currently in Alaska, internet is spotty, and I'm pulling this from the "long term memory bank".)
    In regard to the later; the early after-market manifolds often required different heat ranges in the end port plugs.
    If the back two cylinders are running rich, but not fouling, try going up one hotter plug. If still not burning tan
    in color, reduce plug gap .005 - .008. Your results may vary, depending upon JETTING in the end carbs.

    As to the starter changeover, I used the method described in Speedy's quoted '56 HRM article. I cut out a 1/2"
    relief, (if memory serves correctly), from the (bottom?) side of the snout, flipped the starter over to mount on
    the right side, and if fit perfectly; no dent in the pan required on my '50 block. Since these old buggers are very heavy, I would also recommend using mounting studs and a strap on the front end of the starter, connecting the
    strap to a pan bolt. (As I recall, the mid-fifties 6 cyl. Chevys also could be used for substitutes, along w/ the '40s
    Cad starters.)

    I have my engine on a stand, and can give more details, if needed, when I return home.
     
  26. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Mid fifties chevy 6, I will have to investigate that further, that would be a LOT easier to find than 40's cad flathead.
     
  27. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    I looked at some photos, it looks like a '53/'54 chevy starter might work, but I need to find out more. Anyone know how many teeth they have on the drive gear? @squirrel ??
    I have a swap meet coming up in a week, so if I can gather some more info, and I run across one, maybe I will take a chance on this??
     
  28. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 48,748

    squirrel
    Member

    I don't have any of the old starters laying around...
     
  29. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    rats, I was hoping you would know. 9 is the magic number...anyone else know how many teeth on a '53/54 chevy starter gear?
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.