Hot Rods The No Frame Model A Modified

Very nice work. Its nice to see someone with the same idea as my car. Pretty similar to what i did on mine but i air bagged my car.

 

Any updates on this build?

 

I have been tinkering on it here and there, I bought 30 Acres of Timber near us and have been spending a lot of time there instead of playing with hot rods. But we will get back to it.one of the things I've got mostly done was adapting a Model T accessory cooling fan to the A engine by welding an additional pulley to the backside of the crankshaft pulley. I will make a new fan, the one on there was cut on my plasma bed and is a little too small but works for mock-up. I will have the final fan cut on a water jet and should be at least 2 inches bigger in diameter. Granted model A's didn't have much of a fan and this radiator I would think is much more efficient. I do plan on picking up one of H and H's touring Motors when this thing gets All Shook down.



Also been playing with making body lines using my Harbor Freight planishing hammer, has problems but shows some promise



The tail light



Steering gear mount

 

VERY nice work.

 

I'm blown away. Amazing build. Innovative.

 

Incredible work, and a vision that is kick ass.

 

That is neato! Have you run it across the scales yet?

 

Do you have any more pics of how you mounted that T fan assembly? I need to do the same thing on the B motor in my T, because the stock fan location will hit the radiator top tank, and the electric fan is fugly...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...n-on-my-model-b-banger.1115071/#post-12653780

 

You may well already know all this, but any newbies should make their decisions with their eyes wide open...

MC spindle mount wheels look totally kool and work marginally on straight-line drag cars (even there, there are minimum spoke diameter requirements, if allowed at all now) and show rods. But there was a reason that spindle mount magnesium spoke wheels were invented. MC spokes don't react well to side loading, pot holes and braking forces.

As I understand it, the experience of many T-bucket guys is that at the minimum you are looking at regular wheel truing sessions, and probably broken spokes.

 

That may be true in some circumstances, but a lot depends on how the wheels are built. Many sports cars through the years ran wire wheels without any problems and there are lots of older cars that are still running the original factory wire wheels with no problems.

 

Yes, but the factory car wires weren't motorcycle wire wheels - much different construction and design aspects. And at that, as I recall it - Jag wires infamously needed regular tuneups to stay tight and true...

 

The wider the hub and spoke count helps with the side load on wire wheels. Just look at the transition on early Ford wire wheels. The T modle wire wheel had a narrow hub, while the model A were a little wider, and the 32 were wider and when they went to smaller diameter wheels like on the 34 & 35 even the bent spoke Kelsey were better at side load. Look at he hub with on your English and Italian wheels. Just look how easy a bicycle wheel bends from a side load.

 

I hear you boys, a couple of reasons I'm giving the wheels a pass on the street, the car is very light..., and two the wheels are of Harley Davidson's design (I'm sure this should ruffle some feathers) Harley seems to design and build like farmers, "when in doubt build it stout" these wheels are so much beafier than what was necessary it's incredible. The hub is pretty wide which helps too. I wouldn't try this with any motorcycle wheel that was designed to be as good as it could be. But Harley puts more effort into their costumes and branding than cutting edge design.

That being said we should all be more worried about the unsprung weight ratio than the wheels,......which are too heavy

 

Great work @rottenleonard...you are a innovative craftsman and artist...all the best in the New Year and look forward to more coolstuff...

 

Beautiful


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Dig the fab on this... all around great execution. Love the spring hanger in the rear for some reason. Good job on the body lines for a first time. Future if you want straighter lines, widen up your stamps to about 1/2 to 3/4" and have a second person stabilize the other part of the panel for longer parts.
The wheels will probably be fine as long as you don't throw it in corners hard or hit major potholes while side loading wheels.

Harley doesn't build like a farmer..... More like a sweatshop in Indonesia work with Beverly Hills prices.

 

Wicked cool build

 

Wow!...awesome build, great fab work,...bet that'll be fun to knock around in...

 

I'm glad this thread is still up. For some reason it became off the radar for me yesterday after the site locked up? Any way's. I'm really enjoying this build because it's out of the norm so to speak and that's refreshing.

 

Little photo heavy post, worked on the No-Frame a little last week. Roughed out a passenger door skin, the Harbor Freight plannishing hammer was working pretty good until the mild steel shaft gave up. I also did some machine work on the accessory drive. And whipped up a licence plate bracket to mount up a plate from my old man's Idaho licence plate collection he gave me last week.

 

Thanx for posting the pics of your T fan adaption to the A motor

 

I just saw this build for the first time.
There are some builds on this site that really get my attention.
This is one of them !
Trying to think of words to describe this build.
Really uniquely NEAT !!!

Harry

 

Greetings Leonard!...I'm enjoying this build...why didn't you use a bead roller for the body lines , wouldn't you have gotten " straighter" lines with less deviation?

 

More or less just to see if i can do it. If i can make this work i can whip out custom dies on my plasma bed in a short amount of time for very little cost, turning custom rolls is pretty time consuming. It shows promise, just need to finish making all the mistakes

 

I had a buddy give me this old 8N Ford tractor hood for a donor.

After it sitting around the shop for a couple weeks i just had to use the radiator cap surrounding, my cowl top was rusted out where dirt had been trapped between it and the gas tank.

 

Neato!

 

I didn't care for the way it transitioned into the windshield step, the square joint looked out of place.


So i got on the plasmacam and cut out some press dies and a blank that fit inside of a section of square tube. This really worked fantastic I was able to cut different punches to get it to transition from one profile on the cowl to another on the hood piece.

 

then it was on to the reason I wanted the hood in the first place, the 8N Ford hoods have these great scripts on both sides and the Beltline looks a whole lot like the bottom of a Model A Body.

Keep in mind I am definitely not being at all OCD with these joints, rather basically doing a quick and dirty let's drive it this summer kind of a thing. I will work the joints to be a little better when I pull the cowl off next. But we're definitely going to need some filler.

 

this thread just blew my mind!!! literally there are pieces of my brain on the floor.