Ok I am ready to start priming and block sanding the body on my packard. The local paint supply company employes a large amount of people who couldnt anwser your questions if their life depended on it. All of the parts for my car are or are going to be sand blasted to bare metal. the local supply house carries Dupont products but I can get PPG as well from a near by town. I am going to be keeping the car in primer for some time while I finish doing the body modifications. But I am trying to get it running for Paso this year. The Epoxy primer sealer they are telling me to use is like $60 for a quart. Is there something I can use on the bare blasted metal that is not as expensive,I would prefer to not spend so much money on primer I am just going to sand back off? What products do you use to get to the finished black primer? How much do you usually spend? My car is huge so it will take quite a bit. Also anyone have experience with the house of Kolor products? I did a search of the past posts and didnt see much that anwsered my questions.
have you tried looking for self etching primer? i am not to familiar with it, but i have heard it works good.
...it ain't primer, per se...... But you can't beat John Deere black....$20 a gallon, thereabouts I painted this thing for $89, plus the cost of 400 ft of Fine Line tape, one can of process Blue One-Shot, and a $13 Mack brush.
Hey Dollabill did you paint that over bare metal? how well does it hold up, do you have to recoat often?I am planning on painting the car once all the body mods are finished. anyone know what problems I may have in the future painting over this stuff. Oh where did you get the paint Dolla. Thanks Shawn
I've been using self-etching primer under filler primer for my project, it's working out well. Doesn't cost that much compared to most other primer products. But that green self-etch has a really short time before it needs to be covered with filler primer, so it is quite a job. Good for the money you spend, though. You talked about probs with Home Depot- even if it means a drive down to Auburn, find an auto paint store where they, themselves, have had personal experiences with paint jobs. Their advice could be priceless. The stuff's cheaper at the Depot, but the advice would be worth it. To scope out the stores with great advice, I just go in and buy sandpaper, and ask a few key questions. If they have Omni-brand primer, that could be cheaper, and it's the same company as PPG. Have any project pics of yer bodywork?
I would not reccomend sand blasting sheet metal. Sand generates heat and if not careful can warp sheet metal. Plastic or glass beads are better for sheet metal. Aluminum oxide can be used, as well as soda. To prevent rusting, bare metal should be primed quickly. I would use the etching primer to cover bare metal, no need to pile it on thickly. Although not necessary, self etching primer bonds to bare metal and provides rust prevention. Then do what ever body work you intend to followed with high build primer and block sanding to get smooth and straight. depending on your body skills, it may require several coats of high build primer. More important than the primer and paint is the prep work. It is possible to do the body filler over the self etching primer, but self etching primer is just sparingly applied to get rust stoped and to affect a bonding agent for the next coats of primer. The materials used largely depends on the desired result. Short cut the materials and prep work, including block sanding, and the results will show the shortcuts. Take your time and it will work out the way you want it. This is just an opinion and is not meant as a step to step guide. Jim
One step will give you all your needs. Its call Zero-rust. This stuff will prevent any rusting, can be sanded and painted over, No mixing or enclosed ventilated breathing system needed to apply and lastly, can also be bought in rattlecans when your ready to start your modifications. Cheap too. Around 80.00 a gallon, I think. 286merc is the distributer here on the Hamb.
[ QUOTE ] I would not reccomend sand blasting sheet metal. Sand generates heat and if not careful can warp sheet metal. Plastic or glass beads are better for sheet metal. Aluminum oxide can be used, as well as soda. [/ QUOTE ] i've been taking sheet metal to a guy who uses coal slag dust. it feels like baby powder! he uses very low pressure with a very high volume with a nozzle about 2" id.....he claims to never to have warped any metal. it takes off paint/old bondo/rust and leaves the metal as shiny as a new dime with no damage
[ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] I would not reccomend sand blasting sheet metal. Sand generates heat and if not careful can warp sheet metal. Plastic or glass beads are better for sheet metal. Aluminum oxide can be used, as well as soda. [/ QUOTE ] i've been taking sheet metal to a guy who uses coal slag dust. it feels like baby powder! he uses very low pressure with a very high volume with a nozzle about 2" id.....he claims to never to have warped any metal. it takes off paint/old bondo/rust and leaves the metal as shiny as a new dime with no damage [/ QUOTE ] wow I wonder what that shit does to your lungs??
Sawzall, that Black Beauty stuff we use to blast with is coal "dust" and works great. Not really powdery dust, more sharp. No health warnings on the bag like with sand.
Well I havent warped a panel yet and I have blasted the fenders, 1 door, trunk, and the hood. The hood was seriously screwed anyway but I am modifying it by cutting it in 3 pieces and mounting the front section to the body permanantly and the other two open from the center in two halves. I am using a metal shrinking system made by a guy in So Cal that works awesome. I will check into the zero rust. I attached a pic of the car. Thanks for the info guys Shawn
i love the body lines of that thing. hope to see it in paso, or maybe even on the way there. you will probally see my car broke down on the side of the freeway.
What a cool lookin' project! Hey, it's nice to know some of us aren't the only ones stuck outdoors with our bodywork. I hope it's going well for ya, Fastcat. In terms of deep rust neutralizer, I've found Loctite makes some that's fairly cheap and does the trick, can usually get it at Ace, or what not. Post more pics when ya get the chance!
Hey thanks guys. figures have a 6 car garage and I am working on the back patio I kindof like the way the zero rust stuff looks, I am checking into see if the surfacer primers I can get in town will be compatible, the zero rust web site states primers without acetone in them can be used so I am going to check on that. I kindof wanted something that would protect the metal and allow me to drive while I finish it and zero rust looks like it should work!! I attached a pic that showsthe rear body lines better. It has a 5" chop 6" channel with airbags all around, it is on a late model chassis. I am hand forming the floor right now to attain the most interior room and lowest floor possible. I designes it so the lowest part of the car is the rockers, everything including exhaust and the pans are up inside the floor so they are protected. I will throw on a couple more pics as well. Shawn
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