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Projects The "Minges" 31 coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cornfieldcustoms, Oct 2, 2013.

  1. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    been working on this car for a while, i have posted some of the build progress in a thread with a lot of other work going on in the shop, but i figured it is worthy of its own thread. will also be doing some other threads of a few other cars we are doing

    the body i started with

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    removed the fenders

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    getting a game plan

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    the drive train

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    tapered the front rails

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    "Z" ing the rear section of the frame, internally shear load gusseted

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  2. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    starting to come together

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    body on the frame

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    motor set on stands ready for to start fabbing mounts

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    rear cross member and spring perch

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    frame inside of body

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  3. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    bending the k member

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    both sections bent

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    side sections tacked in and rear cross member tacked in

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    start of the trans cross member

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    tacked in trans cross member, waiting on the rubber mount to finish the mount

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  4. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    motor mounts going in

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  5. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    got a 32 heavy dago drop axle in for the car. and got it rolling supporting itself. here are the pics at the end of the 6th day of work this car

    the dago

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    lower spring mount on the bones

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    and rolled it out side for a good look

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  6. fritzz
    Joined: Mar 21, 2012
    Posts: 212

    fritzz
    Member
    from canada

    nice build,thanks for sharing.
     
  7. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 955

    Shaun1162
    Member

    Looks great!! Perfect stance...
     
  8. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    thanks guys, i will keep posting to get it up to date. stay tuned

    work on the torque arm, since it is running an open drive shaft with split bones. used an old wishbone that was bent, heated and bent it to the desired shape.

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    front mount of the torque arm, tie rod end, mount has the 7* taper reamed into it

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    rear mount was drilled and sleeved with 1.5 od tube and polly bushing installed, .125 plate mounting brackets on the rear end

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    also clamped up a different cowl top since the front edge was cut off the old one, still need to do the sides

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    Stogy likes this.
  9. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    work on the floor skeleton among other things. the 3x1 tube behind the tail shaft will be cut out in the center for the drive shaft

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  10. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    more work on the floor skeleton

    making some cardboard templates for the new subrail section that will attach the body to the tube skeleton

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    transferred the pattern onto steel, passenger side all tacked in

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    driver side all tacked up

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    cut the center section out for the drive shaft, and made a piece to go above it

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    started welding up some of the floor skeleton

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  11. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    started some work on the floor. added some raised areas on the floor pans for strength and some design, using my Baileigh bead roller. on the trans tunnel i added another raised area in the center and some louvers.

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  12. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    fabbed up front section of the trans tunnel

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    passenger side toe board

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    area of the floor were the fuel tank will sit

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    all the lines laid out for the section of the floor that go between the floor pans, and the gas tank area

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    the panel made up and in place

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  13. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,174

    manyolcars

    Why louvers in the floor to let all the engine heat into the car?
     
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  14. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    [​IMG]


    this panel goes behind the area for the fuel tank and makes a small storage area in the rear

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    and with the fuel tank in place


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  15. BBYBMR
    Joined: Apr 27, 2007
    Posts: 612

    BBYBMR
    Member

    Nice - good work. Keep the updates coming!
     
  16. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    the original quarters had the fenders gas welded on, higher than normal. needless to say they did a horrible job and ruined the quarters. i tried to grind down the welds and straighten the original metal, but it was to thin and brittle. so i decided to just make new centers for the quarters. here is how they are coming out

    before i got started

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    the old quarter center removed

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    the new sheet metal, spent some time on the english wheel to get the crown to match the original.

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    first test fit, pulled it back off and did some more wheeling and shrinking on the flanged side

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    started tacking it in place

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  17. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

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    mostly welded up and ground, ran out of welding wire for the day. once i get it fully welded and ground, i will do some more metal working to finish it out

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    since i ran out of welding wire and had a couple more hours till close, i started on the hood. making a cardboard template

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    bead rolled, flange bent, and ran through the slip roll

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    some more rolling

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    got it fitting good, still needs some finish work

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  18. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    the louvers are because louvers are awesome lol, the bottom of the louvers will be plated to seal out the heat
     
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  19. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    got the driver quarter pretty much finished ( still need to do a little the rear area) .after all the welding and grinding i think it turned out nice, will just need a little filler right around the body lines to smooth out some of the grinding marks. then it was time to start on the wheel well.

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    cut the old wheel well out

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    the customer had already bought these wheel wells so i will use them. needed to be cut out for axle and spring clearance. i also moved the finished ends of the beads up that i had to cut through. i think it gives it a nice finished look.

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  20. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    then i need to add the flange back on where i cut

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  21. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,174

    manyolcars

    I sure do admire those quarter panels!
     
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  22. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    got the wheel wells tacked in and then welded solid and smoothed out

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  23. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    working on the other 1/4 panel this past week.

    the old 1/4

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    removed

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    cleco'd in place ready to be trimmed

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    mostly welded up, and ground

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    starting on the wheel well

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    moved onto a few smaller things as well

    mounted the heater

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    mounted the oil filter can

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    and the fuel block

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  24. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    started on repairing the driver side cowl area, needed a new lip formed and the lower patch panel installed that the owner already bought

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    had to make a new front edge for the cowl section, this is the panel all laid out ready to bed and roll

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    all the patch panels tacked in place

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    the driver side all welded and ground, there are still a couple small spots that need some attention

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    then started to fit the deck lid skin while i let the panels cool between welding

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  25. bostonhemi
    Joined: Dec 1, 2011
    Posts: 695

    bostonhemi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    luv the work, the gas tank work and planning terrific
     
  26. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    the old section of the rear passenger quarter panel, it was a little beat up and had some rust. so i decided to replace the whole corner.

    the old

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    the new all welded in, still needs a little metal work

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    did a little more tweaking on the trunk opening to get the deck lid fitting good

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    a shot of the deck lid first row of louvers started

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    all louvered up

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    found another hidden rust hole

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    patch panel all tacked in place

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    ready to put in the passenger side wheel well

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    all tacked in place

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  27. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    had to modify the new stainless head light stands to work with the car

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    got both lights mocked up, mounted them low for a more aggressive look

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    brake/ clutch master cylinder mocked up

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    had to machine these support blocks/ spacers for the deck lid hinges. they help support the sheet metal on the body and are counter bored to allow the raised area around the thread boss on the hinges

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    new hinges on

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    a shot of the support braces installed

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  28. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    started on the passenger door. i figured it would be best to put a full lower skin on up to the belt line. that way if you looked inside the door you could not see the weld seam.

    started off by making a paper template, then transferring it to some sheet metal

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    old door skin removed, all the loose rust scale removed and some black primer sprayed on

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    i forgot to take pics of me making the skin itself. pretty much i used the english wheel to get some crown on the panel, then ran it through the bead roller to make the lower body line. used the brake to bend the edges up. i will snap some pics of the making of the skin tomorrow when i make the driver side.

    new skin clamped up

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    inside edge like a factory skin

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    inside of the weld seam, cut out the inner bracing so i could get in to hammer and dolly the weld seam area

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    after some welding, grinding and hammering and dollying this is what i came out with

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    once the skin was cut out of new sheet metal, i laid out some lines to show a basic wheeling pattern to get a crown started on the skin

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    after some wheeling you can see some shape on the skin

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    then to get the crown in the other direction you turn the skin 90* and wheel away.

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    after more wheeling you can see the crown, or compound curve on the skin

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    moved on to putting the body line on the bottom of the skin

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    after a run through the bead roller

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    then broke the edges of the skin

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  29. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    then shrank the edges to follow the crown of the skin

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    when i got the old skin off the driver door there was a lot of rot and pin holes in the bottom of the door frame, so i had to make a new door bottom.

    after a couple hours of bending, drilling and bead rolling i came up with this

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    after a few more hours of cutting, welding and grinding

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    had to do some steel buck rivets

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    pretty much all finished

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    sorry for all the updates at once, just trying to get up to with the pics on this car
     
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  30. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    in black primer ready for the new skin

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    overall i think it turned out pretty nice

    i decided to make another hood for the coupe, the more i looked at the first one the more i was not happy with the way it turned out. the new one looks much better. still needs some minor work but coming along

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    i pulled all the sheet metal out to weld all the floor skeleton up and ad some bracing that was all beat up form being a drag car

    welding all the 1x1 up

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    here is how the bracing has been all beat up and destroyed

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    here is a new brace a bent up to replace the old ones

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    a before and after shot while making the braces, and some during fabrication pics

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    a finished pair

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    Stogy and chop job like this.

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